[AllenM]

The Tac Pro II is what I use for a carry gun.
I really Like it a lot. But I made a couple of changes.
I removed the Magwell and bobtailed the frame. I have thin Alumi grips on it now. not whats in the picture.
It's light accurate and reliable.
One of my favorites.

[Gojubrian]

I really like the bobtail!

[Rodmaker]

Originally Posted by AllenM

The Tac Pro II is what I use for a carry gun.
I really Like it a lot. But I made a couple of changes.
I removed the Magwell and bobtailed the frame. I have thin Alumi grips on it now. not whats in the picture.
It's light accurate and reliable.
One of my favorites.

Did you do the bob tail yourself or have it done? Looks good, I have thought about having that done to one of mine.

[AllenM]

I did it myself. It wasn't to hard, small learning curve and had to buy a jig to relocate the MSH pin hole.
Also had to refinish it afterwords.
Stainless is nice because you can just polish it up afterward

[matt g]

I've said this before: "I need a pistol with a steel frame. Sometimes, deadly force isn't necessary, but pistol whipping the **** out of someone is. When that day comes, you'll wish you would have bought a steel framed 1911."

[Gojubrian]

How about I shoot them with the pro carry and hit them with the cz75b?

[Gundog55]

I bought one a few years ago from a friend for a lot less and just got around to shooting it on my four day Front Sight Defensive Handgun course. My duty weapon was a HK USP LEM .40cal so I carried the same concealed. I wanted to start carrying something with some more behind it so took the Kimber out of the safe and came down here to get "Tuned Up" on the Kimber.

The rear sight was off so I ended up shooting constantly at the 10:30/11:00 position. They adjusted the sights for me and I found I was center but still an inch too high. I blacked out the tritium front sight with a sharpy and was nailing an 1 1/2" box at 10 meters. (I can wipe off the blackened front sight anytime I need to).

Now as far as the gun? I can't figure out why so many sharp or rough edges. The checkering on the front strap about wore my fingers raw the first day so I put tape on it, the checkering on the bottom of the trigger guard goes clear to each outer edge making those edges sharp/rough. On the bottom of the front strap where the mag well begins the edges on each side are sharp and should of been cut at the same angle as the mag guide. The thumb safety is deep grooved.....again....sharp/rough edged. believe me, after running two hundred rounds a day for four days these become VERY annoying.

Finally, no 1911 I ever had (and I've had a few, I was taught to break one down and reassemble blind folded when I was eight years old) ever need a paper clip to hold the spring onto the spring rod but this one does so have a supply of those on hand if you want to field strip it. I plan on sanding down a lot of those edges as soon as I get home. Other than that....this gun Is well balanced, light and compact for a 1911, many nice features and VERY accurate after some tuning up. As critical as I am on the rough edges I would still buy this gun again and I look forward to using it as my CCW.

[g17frantz]

Great report but this an awfully old thread sir

[Gundog55]

You're right...it is an old thread but I found it while doing a google search on the Kimber so I figured it must still have some readers since I found it. Besides, it got me to join the group. Maybe they need to figure out a way to make the threads "Frayed" when the get to a certain age?

I want to correct something also. After reading it again I realized that I meant five meter line not the 10 meter line from where I was shooting. While I WISH I was that good from the 10 I'm not.