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-   -   Just picked up my first 1911. (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f57/just-picked-up-my-first-1911-a-58622/)

getem2011 02-23-2012 11:56 PM

Just picked up my first 1911.
 
Picked up my Sig STX from my FFL! Now this is my first 1911 and my first gun with a nitron finish slide and stainless frame. Before I just clean her up with whatever I wanted your opinions on what products are safe on nitron and stainless.
I am considering get some ballistol as I know that would be safe for my wood grips.

So please list
1. what cleaner
2. what lube
3. and protection would keep my first 1911 looking and operating great.


pics soon to come...
Getem

DodgerBlue 02-24-2012 12:12 AM

g17frantz is the man to ask. The STX is his baby

Congratz on picking the SIG 1911. Once the club is formed be sure to join.

Gatoragn 02-24-2012 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getem2011 (Post 718400)
pics soon to come...

Will give you the benefit of the doubt then. :D

canebrake 02-24-2012 02:02 AM

Best advice, buy the highest quality you can afford!

Good cleaning tools are an investment and should have as much pre-purchase research as did your gun selection.

I've used them all and can save you the time and $$$ with my recommendations. (Just remember this is subjective and don't get yourself confused with the Chevy vs Ford thingie.)

Here are my minimum requirements for gun maintenance: (provided links are for visual reference, SHOP around!)

Hardware (get dedicated tools and keep them in a cleaning box marked S&W M&P and don't mix them with your other gun/caliber equipment.)
Consumables
For protection; I've just started to use this stuff, it looks promising.

Frog Lube



Tips:
  1. Use only properly sized tools (if you don't have that .45 bore brush, get one!)
  2. Clean your gun barrel in the same direction the bullet travels (on your gun, with the barrel removed, push the brush from breech to muzzle, remove the brush and pull the rod out, IOW, don't run it back-and-forth)
  3. Use a fresh patch on each pass (patches are cheap, barrels are expensive)
  4. DO NOT drag a dirty patch back through the "just cleaned" barrel
  5. Disassemble your gun only to the level required to access areas where fouling reaches
  6. Cleaning your gun requires a clean work area. The idea is to remove, not add dirt
  7. When it comes to lube, lighter is better (pass a lightly lubed bore mop 2-3 times instead of a oil soaked and dripping mop once)
  8. Lube needs to be present, not seen (visual) to work (see # 7 above)

DodgerBlue 02-24-2012 02:05 AM

anything Canebrake says 1911 should be considered final. In all seriousness.

getem2011 02-24-2012 04:45 AM

Will hoppes or remi oil hurt the nitron finish?? And has anyone had experiece with mpro7 products?Thanks alot cane, I was hoping you would see this thread.

Oh and I won't even ask if it needs to be broken in as I know how the last thread about that topic turned out lol

canebrake 02-24-2012 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by getem2011 (Post 718677)
Will hoppes or remi oil hurt the nitron finish?? And has anyone had experiece with mpro7 products?Thanks alot cane, I was hoping you would see this thread.

Oh and I won't even ask if it needs to be broken in as I know how the last thread about that topic turned out lol

Thanks getem2011, yea I stirred the pot on that thread. Way too many thin-skinned people here.

jordan89 02-24-2012 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DodgerBlue
anything Canebrake says 1911 should be considered final. In all seriousness.

+1

I think cane is just a reincarnation of JMB.

I don't even have a 1911 but if I did and he told me the only way it would work right is if I club myself in the face with it...I would.

canebrake 02-24-2012 06:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by getem2011 (Post 718677)
Will hoppes or remi oil hurt the nitron finish?? And has anyone had experiece with mpro7 products?

I have found, in general terms, that most solvents commercially available for gun cleaning have little to no negitive effect on the gun's finish. (steel, NOT plastic gun finishes) Of course that's if you use it per directions.

As a rule I do two types of 1911 cleaning;
  1. The "fast-but-necessary" post range trip buff
    This consists of a field strip removing only the;
    • mag
    • slide release
    • bushing
    • barrel
    • spring
    • guide rod

    Using the Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent I clean the barrel. breech face and any other carbon deposits I see with a brush. I continue the cleaning until my wipe cloth/patch returns clean.

    Wipe down and inspect the mag, recoil spring, guide rod, plug and bushing.

    I do a complete visual inspection of the moving parts looking for wear witness marks, cracks or galling.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    Wipe down the gun's surface with your silicon rag.
  2. The "Detailed Deep-Clean" scrub
    Completely strip your 1911, everything except;
    1. Sights
    2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
    3. Grip bushings
    4. Ejector

    While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.

    http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...s/DSCF4947.jpg
    • Get your soap and mix with hot water in the bucket. If really dirty use Brakleen.
    • Place the large parts (receiver, slide) in the bucket.
    • Place your small parts in a strainer and dip in the soapy water. Attachment 39979
    • Scrub all parts until void of any lubricant.
    • Lay parts out on a clean shop towel and re-inspect everything. Look at the wear areas and for cracks or galling.

    This is the time to visually inspect every part in detail..

    http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ools/strig.jpg

    Trigger Bow ^

    http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tools/slst.jpg

    Slide stop ^

    http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tools/sbbl.jpg

    Barrel ^

    Using your compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies. Use the q-tips to clean the extractor and firing pin channels.

    If you find any trace of dirt/lube, draw more hot water, add the Dawn and re-do the scrub thingie. Or re-spray with Brakleen.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)
    After a deep cleaning especially with Brakleen, use an aerosol lube like Rem oil, or as I do, get a olive oil spray bottle and fill it with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. The spray allows you to get deep into the nooks and crannies to protect the bare surfaces.

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    And most important, after a complete tear-down, dry fire the gun with a squib rod seated against the breech face. Insure the firing pin is working by rotating the muzzle to straight up, dry fire and look for the rod to jump when struck by the firing pin. Do this before you return the pistol to service. (Trust the old man on this one!)

RhettButler 02-24-2012 06:22 PM

Cane:

They make a squib rod what ain't a #2 pencil? Someone did point out on this forum the #2 wasn't much use for a .22.
Nice instructions.


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