How about a "nice grips" thread? - Page 85
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:48 AM   #841
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Ah this thread is killing me, haha

I have to wait to get paid & do some research before I get new grips.

I'm thinking of having 2 sets though, one that's more classic (probably rosewood), and one that's more quirky (likely involving zombies haha). Actually, I saw one that was dragon scales which is kind of perfect, being a Game of Thrones/ASOIAF fanatic.

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Old 04-03-2013, 01:48 PM   #842
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Olympus, those are outstanding! They are very simular to the spalded Maple I am putting on my Citadel but mine have more green in them. Way Cool!

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Old 04-03-2013, 01:55 PM   #843
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Check this wood grain out, I'm thinking it would make beautiful grips:



g_2.11_thumb.jpg

Spalded Camellia, from Asia and Hawaii.

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Old 04-03-2013, 04:10 PM   #844
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Be careful with the spalted woods. Spalting is a result of decomposition in the wood. Spalted woods really need to be fully stabilized before using them as grip material because the wood is typically very soft.

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Old 04-03-2013, 11:44 PM   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olympus View Post
Be careful with the spalted woods. Spalting is a result of decomposition in the wood. Spalted woods really need to be fully stabilized before using them as grip material because the wood is typically very soft.
Is that right, they do say it's a hard wood but I understand what you're saying. Here's what they say from the site I found it on. (Same one I pm'd you the other day.)

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Spalted Camellia- Camellia japonica L.. An ornamental tree or shrub, native to China and Japan, has attractive leaves and beautiful flowers. The wood is hard and durable and it sands very well. When you cut the wood from a live tree it is white but this is one of the woods that spalts very nicely as you can see from the picture.

http://www.koawoodhawaii.com/2.html
They've got some other beautiful woods on this site as well. You mentioned stabilizing. What's involved in that and would a good coat of finish help with the problem you're describing?
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:16 PM   #846
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You can stabilize the wood at home several different ways. I use a large mason jar and a break bleeder pump and bleeder screw in the top of the mason jar. I also put a shutoff valve in the line so I can hold suction over a long period of time. Also just a good wood hardner. Just put the wood in the jar and fill it with the liquid use some close hanger wire folded in a rectangle to put between the wood and the lid to keep if fully submerged and place the lid on and vacume out all the air I do this 7 or 8 times till I stop seeing bubbles. Then I let it sit with a vacuum over night then remove an let dry for a few days. Then it's ready to use it. This is how I do it regularly I have had no problems doing it this way. Also look at YouTube they show how to do it different ways but I find this to be easy and safer than some of what is have seen.

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Old 04-04-2013, 09:07 PM   #847
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You can definitely do that but it's messy and a lot of work. If you're just doing a few pieces I'd send them off to be professionally stabilized. The end result will be much better also.

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Old 04-05-2013, 05:18 PM   #848
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My Citadel .45 ame in from getting a Tuffcoat treatment from MAC's at Shootin Irons in Arizona. I'm very pleased, way more than I expected. I bought the grips before the pistol came back and I thinkl they fit it perfectly Let me know what you all think!

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Old 04-06-2013, 02:32 PM   #849
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Its definitely not my cup of tea but whatever floats your goat.

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Old 04-10-2013, 01:07 AM   #850
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Default My grips

Just got these yesterday

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