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Full length guide rod matter?


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Old 01-21-2014, 09:47 PM   #21
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From Joe Chambers.


To Shokdu, with all due respect sir, I have seen MANY springs kinked in government, commander and officers that used a "standard" spring rod. Typically I just toss the spring but it is not an uncommon occurrence and just because you have not seen it does not mean it does not happen. I have also seen several GI length guide rods break their ears off due to being tipped up and down during shooting (which means the spring is kinking, among other things), to include one particular makers who are considered the very best (I happen to use them myself). So, we should all be reminded that just because JMB designed it that way in the early part of the 20th century, does not mean it is the best mousetrap. He also designed the feed ramp of the gun to feed 200g LEAD round nose bullets, designed the mag catch lock WITHOUT a slot head, and several other things that you may or may not know about depending on if you have actually seen an original 1911 and had the opportunity to inspect it. Personally I had #305 and #3997 in my shop in original condition and was able to inspect them very carefully.

Well, now that we are past all that...I think there is a place for both FLGR and GIGR. I use both. Personally, I don't care for the two piece FLGR as I find them to be a pain in the rump during assembly. I have only seen ONE break and it actually broke at the female threaded part of the flanged end of the rod. I have never seen one strip out. I have never seen one come loose when PROPERLY installed (use pliers to slightly mar the threads and then use a VERY small amount of blue loctite).

As for the regular FLGR, I use them A LOT. STI is usually the one I use as it already has a hole drilled in it for using a paper clip to disassemble if desired, and it typically is if you want to keep your bushing/barrel bearing area good over time. I think the FLGR allows for cleaner cycling, smoother cycling, more consistent cycling, which makes for a more reliable gun and reliability adds to the accuracy I so desire out of my guns.

Well, those are my thoughts in a nut shell. Feel free to agree or disagree...I'm going back to building a gun.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:36 AM   #22
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I always hear about people needing a tool to disassemble their 1911. I am a bit confused because I had own a Kimber ultra covert 2 that needed the paperclip thing to disassemble which is why I got rid of it. Why would anyone want a pistol that requires a wrench to break it down. I replaced my GI guide rod, spring, and plug with Spinco full length guide rod system and still require no special tools to break down my postol. It is extremely accurate as long as you the shooter do your part so again I'm not understanding the reason for the wrench. I assumed tighter tolerances would mean a more accurate pistol but that's just my assumption.

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Old 01-22-2014, 05:39 AM   #23
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Here are a few pics if anyone cares

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Old 01-23-2014, 09:21 PM   #24
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I had a full lenght rod on my Kimber Classic and replaced it with a short rod. I found the full length made it difficult to break down and I like the look of the closed endcap anyways so, since it didnt seem to effect performance one way or the other, I swapped it out.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:00 PM   #25
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i have a FLGR and if i had to reload with an injured hand i'd use my little GI sight nub on my belt or a table or something to rack the slide
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DP03 View Post
As I'm searching for my first 1911, one of the models has a full length guide rod. The LGS owner told me to expect a lot of different opinions on this. Anyone have a preference one way or the other?
He was right, there are a lot of opinions.
I have three different varieties of guide rod on my 1911s:
The short original style.
The one piece Full length
The two piece Full length
The only one I don't really like is the two piece that requires an Allen wrench for disassembly. It's on my SA Trophy Match. It's annoying, but not so much that I'm willing to spend the money to replace it with a one piece. It's a common size (the Allen wrench) that most people will have in their tool box even if they manage to loose the one that came with the pistol.
The one piece FLGR doesn't absolutely require a bushing wrench for disassembly, but you're probably going to be much happier using one.
I'm not familiar with the other, more exotic types out there.
Whether there is an actual benefit to having the FLGR or not, any penalty probably isn't worth bypassing an otherwise appealing pistol. They are often found in some of the better examples.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:35 PM   #27
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Well, I went with the SA Loaded Stainless model. It has the two piece FLGR that uses an allen wrench. I disassembled and reassembled the gun for the first time today and found it very easy. As far as field stripping, I won't have a need for that. This pistol will be for target shooting and possibly HD as a backup.

This is by far, the tightest gun I have owned. Can't wait to go shoot!!
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:18 AM   #28
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Congratulations. Do strip it though, the tight ones like oil and don't like chamber fouling.

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Old 01-30-2014, 01:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DP03 View Post
Well, I went with the SA Loaded Stainless model. It has the two piece FLGR that uses an allen wrench. I disassembled and reassembled the gun for the first time today and found it very easy. As far as field stripping, I won't have a need for that. This pistol will be for target shooting and possibly HD as a backup.

This is by far, the tightest gun I have owned. Can't wait to go shoot!!
Good choice. Since it is both new & tight, you should probably err toward generous when oiling. When my TM was new, the only time it got fussy was when I went too light with the lube. IMHO, 1911s as a species are probably better off when run wet. YMMV.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:31 AM   #30
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I have three 1911-type pistols and each has a different guide rod; a one-piece FLGR, a GI-style and a reverse-plug in an officers-sized pistol. Though two of them take down easier with a tool (a pin for the little hole for the reverse-plug rod), none of them is appreciably easier to deal with. The GI system requires more manipulation of the spring when reassembling the gun; the FLGR likes to try to moon-shoot it's spring plug if you aren't careful even with a bushing wrench; and the reverse-plug needs that pin or a little nail or something to control it's spring. I don't see any major operational advantage to any of the three systems other than the compact pretty much requires the reverse-plug method. At the risk of sounding dismissive, I think that if you can't learn to manage the recoil system on your pistol you might be happier with a type of gun that doesn't ask for that much skill on your part; something in polymer perhaps...
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