firing pin stop
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:04 AM   #1
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So I ordered an EGW oversized firing pin stop to replace my factory one on my 1911 and I noticed a considerable difference in one of the dimensions. Is this going to be a problem??


forumrunner_20130415_220132.jpg

You should be able to see the base of the EGW fp stop is actually smaller than the factory one. Any input/experience/etc would be appreciated.

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Old 04-16-2013, 03:09 AM   #2
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It looks like it should work. Put it in the gun and try it out.

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Old 04-16-2013, 03:35 AM   #3
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an oversize FPS will have to be fitted to the slide to work correctly. doubtful it will simply just slide in.

just curious as to why the need for an oversize FPS?

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Old 04-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #4
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Normally that is used to stop the extractor from twisting (when one has extraction and ejection problems).

Were you having ejection problems?

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Old 04-16-2013, 02:11 PM   #5
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I wanted to have a small radius or square bottom on the fps. This was JBM's original design and I've have heard a lot of reviews about it increasing reliability and reducing muzzle flip.

I know that it will require fitting, but no amount of fitting will add material to a piece that is too small. The new oversized fps having a smaller bottom is my concern.

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Old 04-16-2013, 02:24 PM   #6
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Are you having reliability problems?

I don't understand how it reduces "flip". Please elaborate.

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Old 04-16-2013, 03:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danf_fl View Post
Are you having reliability problems?

I don't understand how it reduces "flip". Please elaborate.
+1
Reliability? If it ain't broken...
Muzzle flip? Color me skeptical.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:20 PM   #8
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I'm not a physics teacher, but I've read several discussions on the topic. Here's one of the better explanations...

" How does it enhance reliability? By slowing the slide in recoil, thus reducing not only the recoil spring's backward shove on the frame...it reduces the level of whack when the slide hits the impact abutment...which is what causes muzzle flip...what we recognize as recoil.

...

I found out a long time ago that the path to reliability is to slow the gun down rather than speeding it up. Slower cycling gives everything else the opportunity to keep up...notably the magazine. Because of the lower rearward slide velocity, it allows the use of reasonable recoil springs with no detrimental effects such as brass going into the next county and the dreaded frame battering that we hear so much about, but is actually much ado over...nothin' much. The most important effect, though, is that the magazine can keep up with the slide. Next is that it makes the gun more reliable in locking the slide on empty.

...

How does the small radius accomplish these wonderous things?

The slide cocks the hammer against the hammer's inertial mass and the mainspring's resistance. By lowering the point of contact on the hammer, it reduces the mechanical advantage, and ups the energy requirement in cocking the hammer. Because there's only so much energy available...some of it used up in overcoming the added resistance. A simple matter of leverage.

But wait! There's more!

By robbing the slide of some of its momentum...and robbing it as the instant that it starts to move...it adds a slight amount of delay. Delaying the slide...even a tiny bit...puts the bullet closer to the muzzle relative to the slide's position. The earlier in the cycle that the bullet exits, the sooner the force is removed from the system...and once the force is removed, the slide can only decelerate.

...

And I want to repeat, just for the record. I don't use the small radius for purposes of recoil reduction. That it does have an effect on recoil is incidental, and was never something that I really considered beyond noticing it...determining why it happens...and ignoring it. Reliability is what it's all about. That's what I do."

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Old 04-16-2013, 04:30 PM   #9
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Reliability is the main concern here. Yes, I have had some feeding issues that MAY be solved by slowing down the motion of the slide as it strips the top round from the magazine. If that doesn't help, then I'm no worse for wear since this part and other parts I am installing are much higher quality than the cheaply made mim parts I currently have.

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Old 04-16-2013, 04:48 PM   #10
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If you are going down the trouble shooting path for reliability issues, you can also check your exractor tension and check teh hook area to ensure that it is radiused on teh leading edges wher the case rim enters the extractor.

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