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-   -   cleaning and oiling new 1911 (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f57/cleaning-oiling-new-1911-a-60152/)

ginfield 03-13-2012 02:57 PM

cleaning and oiling new 1911
 
I know I saw a thread on this somewhere, but I can't find it now.

What are your recommendations on cleaning and oiling a 1911.

I just got a new Kimber pro carry II about a month ago and its due for a cleaning

Thanks

danf_fl 03-13-2012 06:29 PM

What does the owner's manual say?

Use oil sparingly. Too much and you get sprayed on the next time you shoot it.

limbkiller 03-13-2012 10:39 PM

If it slides grease it. Everything else oil it. Run all guns WET unless it's 20 below zero. Not dripping but oiled.

canebrake 03-14-2012 01:35 AM

I have found, in general terms, that most solvents commercially available for gun cleaning have little to no negitive effect on the gun's finish. (steel, NOT plastic gun finishes) Of course that's if you use it per directions.

As a rule I do two types of 1911 cleaning;[*]The "fast-but-necessary" post range trip buff
This consists of a field strip removing only the;
  • mag
  • slide release
  • bushing
  • barrel
  • spring
  • guide rod

Using the Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent I clean the barrel. breech face and any other carbon deposits I see with a brush. I continue the cleaning until my wipe cloth/patch returns clean.

Wipe down and inspect the mag, recoil spring, guide rod, plug and bushing.

I do a complete visual inspection of the moving parts looking for wear witness marks, cracks or galling.

I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)

Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

Wipe down the gun's surface with your silicon rag.
[*]The "Detailed Deep-Clean" scrub. Completely strip your 1911, everything except;
  1. Sights
  2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
  3. Grip bushings
  4. Ejector

While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...s/DSCF4947.jpg
  • Get your soap and mix with hot water in the bucket. If really dirty use Brakleen.
  • Place the large parts (receiver, slide) in the bucket.
  • Place your small parts in a strainer and dip in the soapy water. Attachment 39979
  • Scrub all parts until void of any lubricant.
  • Lay parts out on a clean shop towel and re-inspect everything. Look at the wear areas and for cracks or galling.

This is the time to visually inspect every part in detail..

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ools/strig.jpg

Trigger Bow ^

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tools/slst.jpg

Slide stop ^

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tools/sbbl.jpg

Barrel ^

Using your compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies. Use the q-tips to clean the extractor and firing pin channels.

If you find any trace of dirt/lube, draw more hot water, add the Dawn and re-do the scrub thingie. Or re-spray with Brakleen.

I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)
After a deep cleaning especially with Brakleen, use an aerosol lube like Rem oil, or as I do, get a olive oil spray bottle and fill it with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. The spray allows you to get deep into the nooks and crannies to protect the bare surfaces.

Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

And most important, after a complete tear-down, dry fire the gun with a squib rod seated against the breech face. Insure the firing pin is working by rotating the muzzle to straight up, dry fire and look for the rod to jump when struck by the firing pin. Do this before you return the pistol to service. (Trust the old man on this one!)

gollygee 03-14-2012 03:32 AM

Canebrake, are the three wear spots you point out consider normal wear?

colmustard 03-14-2012 03:37 AM

Nice post cane!

2ndAmendmentFreedom 03-14-2012 05:39 AM

I have that kind of wear on my barrel and I'm sure it's normal wear. The slide rubs against it when racking/shooting so it's going to get scratched up.

Grease is actually NOT recommended on the 1911, it'd probably work but oil only is usually recommended, that's what I do and I don't have any issues. I've been trying that new FrogLube and I like it.

ginfield 03-14-2012 12:46 PM

Thanks Cane, that pretty much answers my question.

g17frantz 03-14-2012 09:40 PM

Is that stickied Cane? It needs to be if it isn't. As always....I bow down to your 1911 prowess.

canebrake 03-15-2012 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndAmendmentFreedom (Post 739751)
I have that kind of wear on my barrel and I'm sure it's normal wear. The slide rubs against it when racking/shooting so it's going to get scratched up.

Grease is actually NOT recommended on the 1911, it'd probably work but oil only is usually recommended, that's what I do and I don't have any issues. I've been trying that new FrogLube and I like it.

+1 2nd! I'm a big Frog Lube Fan Boy! Watch for my NEW GUN test coming to a forum near you.

I'm a 1911, oil only guy!

Grease is a dirt magnet. Oil is a flushing agent.

Use cane's Mobil Mystery CLP/LUBE/ FMELIXER and everything is good! (and Frog Lube)


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