canebrake's 1911 platform pistol cleaning suggestions
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:07 PM   #1
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Default canebrake's 1911 platform pistol cleaning suggestions

THIS IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL OF 1911 CLEANING! copied from the Gunsmithing Section

This is not a FireArmsTalk.com endorsed or condoned procedure. It is however, a process applied by this 66 year old gun totin', retired engineer and grumpy 'ole codger that has served him well. So no flaming posts please, just PM me with your suggestions/corrections and I will modify this guide.

Best advice, buy the highest quality cleaning supplies and tools you can afford!

Good cleaning tools are an investment and should have as much pre-purchase research as did your gun selection.

I've used them all and can save you the time and $$$ with my recommendations. (Just remember this is subjective and don't get yourself confused with the Chevy vs Ford thingie.)

Here are my minimum requirements for gun maintenance: (provided links are for visual reference, SHOP around!)

Hardware (get dedicated tools and keep them in a cleaning box marked 1911 Cleaning and don't mix them with your other gun/caliber equipment.)
Consumables
  • Solvent(s) Get the Hoppes #9
    I like/use Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent - MidwayUSA
  • Lube
    I blend my own. Cane's "Mobil Mystery", 90% Mobil 1 / 10% Marvel Mystery.
    +
  • Patches (get caliber-specific size patches and DON'T mix them!)
  • Q-Tips (can't clean guns without them!)

For protection; I've just started to use this stuff, it looks promising.

Frog Lube



As a rule I do two types of 1911 cleaning;
  1. The "fast-but-necessary" post range trip buff
    This consists of a field strip removing only the;
    • mag
    • slide release
    • bushing
    • barrel
    • spring
    • guide rod

    Using the Hoppe's #9 Semi-Auto Bore Cleaning Solvent I clean the barrel. breech face and any other carbon deposits I see with a brush. I continue the cleaning until my wipe cloth/patch returns clean.

    Wipe down and inspect the mag, recoil spring, guide rod, plug and bushing.

    I do a complete visual inspection of the moving parts looking for wear witness marks, cracks or galling.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    Wipe down the gun's surface with your silicon rag.
  2. The "Detailed Deep-Clean" scrub
    Completely strip your 1911, everything except;
    1. Sights
    2. Plunger tube (remove the spring & plungers)
    3. Grip bushings
    4. Ejector

    While you have it in this most revealing condition, inspect everything.


    • Get your soap and mix with hot water in the bucket. If really dirty use Brakleen.
    • Place the large parts (receiver, slide) in the bucket.
    • Place your small parts in a strainer and dip in the soapy water.
    • Scrub all parts until void of any lubricant.
    • Lay parts out on a clean shop towel and re-inspect everything. Look at the wear areas and for cracks or galling.

    This is the time to visually inspect every part in detail..



    Trigger Bow ^



    Slide stop ^



    Barrel ^

    Using your compressed air, clean all the nooks and crannies. Use the q-tips to clean the extractor and firing pin channels.

    If you find any trace of dirt/lube, draw more hot water, add the Dawn and re-do the scrub thingie. Or re-spray with Brakleen.

    I then LIGHTLY lube all areas with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. (NOTE: Lube must be present but.....NOT dripping wet!)
    After a deep cleaning especially with Brakleen, use an aerosol lube like Rem oil, or as I do, get a olive oil spray bottle and fill it with my Cane Mobil Mystery custom blend. The spray allows you to get deep into the nooks and crannies to protect the bare surfaces.

    Reassembly looking for a smooth build with no exceptions.

    And most important, after a complete tear-down, dry fire the gun with a squib rod seated against the breech face. Insure the firing pin is working by rotating the muzzle to straight up, dry fire and look for the rod to jump when struck by the firing pin. Do this before you return the pistol to service. (Trust the old man on this one!)

Tips:
  1. Use only properly sized tools (if you don't have that .45 bore brush, get one!)
  2. Clean your gun barrel in the same direction the bullet travels (on your gun, with the barrel removed, push the brush from breech to muzzle, remove the brush and pull the rod out, IOW, don't run it back-and-forth)
  3. Use a fresh patch on each pass (patches are cheap, barrels are expensive)
  4. DO NOT drag a dirty patch back through the "just cleaned" barrel
  5. Disassemble your gun only to the level required to access areas where fouling reaches
  6. Cleaning your gun requires a clean work area. The idea is to remove, not add dirt
  7. When it comes to lube, lighter is better (pass a lightly lubed bore mop 2-3 times instead of a oil soaked and dripping mop once)
  8. Lube needs to be present, not seen (visual) to work (see # 7 above)
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Get her dirty, then clean her so she starts to respect you. When her trust is complete, she will serve you well for a lifetime!

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #2
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nice ride as always Canebreak.

Thx for your time!!!!

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:25 PM   #3
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Question 1: how do you feel about using green soap
Question 2: break free... My old man swears by it,I dislike it use rem-oil(wife says we're both nuts)

Nice bit of info and breakdown my good sir..

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:43 PM   #4
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I thought this was already a stickie?

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #5
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Cane must have been looking in my safe to see what condition I let my firearms stay in.

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:54 PM   #6
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Default 67 year old gun totin retired engineer and grumpy ole man

That was my father, and he mantained all his firearms exactly to your specs, except the Special Cane Lube, he used Royal Purple, but that's the only difference.
I guess that's an ole engineering trick, huh.
Smart ole birds.

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 38special View Post
Question 1: how do you feel about using green soap
Question 2: break free... My old man swears by it,I dislike it use rem-oil(wife says we're both nuts)

Nice bit of info and breakdown my good sir..
1. What's green soap?
2. Nope, check the price/oz Break Free ~$1.50/oz VS. Brakleen Non-Chlorinated ~$0.30/oz

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:25 PM   #8
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Hey, nobody told me i had to clean them too

Gud job Cane

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:29 PM   #9
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It's a medical cleaning soap mostly made of pure vegetable oils.

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:41 PM   #10
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So where does the Frog Lube factor in? Long term storage?

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