Originally Posted by axxe55
Cane following your directions here is what i found:
1) the ejector is not bent and has no witness marks.
2) there is no rotational movement in the extractor and the FPS is tight.
3) the extractor seems loose as the shell when captured, (in battery) is very loose as when shook falls out after a couple of shakes. (too light)
it does throw the rounds at or about the face or head when shot, not every spent case, but at least every 3-4 rounds.
OK, what I'm about to tell you requires some smithin' skillz. If you're not comfortable with doing the following work, DON'T
! Take it to a smith and have the work done. But.....if you're comfortable with the process, give it a try and take a step further into the greatness of the world of the 1911.
Read the procedure to the end. Decide if this is something you can do and then, and only then, proceed. If you have more questions.....ASK
before you do something wrong. You can't un-ring a bell. This is really a pretty simple job compared to other 1911 smithin'.
To work on the extractor, you will need to remove the firing pin stop. You accomplish this by pushing the firing pin into the slide and moving the firing pin stop down and out of the slide channel. Watch when the stop clears the firing pin or it will launch itself across the room. (If your gun is equipped with a Colt Series 80 style firing pin safety you will need to push the safety plunger up into the slide, push the firing pin in and release the plunger. This will capture the firing pin and hold it in it's channel after the stop is removed.)
With the FP stop removed, and keeping the extractor indexed in its original position, slide the extractor approximately half way out and recheck the indexing is still correct. See illustration below;
Do the following in baby steps! Apply a light pressure to the extractor resulting in a very slight bend and increasing it's holding power on the brass rim. BABY STEPS
, you've been warned! If you break the extractor you applied too much pressure and that's on you....NOT me! It takes a very little change/bend to increase the extractors holding power.
Re-assemble the slide and preform the shake test to see if you need to do more tuning.BABY STEPS
, there I said it again!
If your recoil and main springs are doing their job to provide proper slide timing, you can tune your extractor to beer-pong the spent brass into a dump bag.
For a shooter wanting to decrease the extractor's holding power just reverse the above process.
Please do not attempt this if you have any questions or are not sure your skill-level is up to it!