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-   -   upgrades ? (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f56/upgrades-4863/)

dango 06-09-2008 02:33 AM

upgrades ?
 
I was thinking of purchaseing a few parts for a G17. I,ve read about steel guide rods etc. , but my question is about bar-sto barrels.I,m not a tournament shooter, just love to shoot.Also,the ka-boom factor.Is the cost of a quality after-market barrel worth it ?

G21.45 06-09-2008 09:57 PM

:) Obviously I thought so because I have Bar-Sto Precision barrels in both of my Glocks. Do you really need an aftermarket barrel? Not in a 9mm chambering you don't. I've got extended barrels with muzzle-ports on my Glocks; but, my 45 barrels will, also, handle either ACP or Super cartridges; AND, I tend to shoot very fast; so, muzzle-ported barrels are an advantage to me.

All of Glock's factory standard 3rd generation barrels are of sufficient high quality to be able to safely handle whatever commercial ammunition you feed them. Needlessly worrying about a kaBoom! event in a 9mm Glock is a complete waste of time! Don't ever shoot reloads; and, you'll be fine.

To briefly address your other concerns: In my opinion, Wolff Gunsprings makes the best solid steel guide rod(s) for a Glock. I absolutely love and swear by mine. A solid steel rod fitted with a high quality Wolff spring really smooths out the pistol and improves feeding.

I, also, like to use a 4.5# connector in my Glocks. Again, in my opinion, Lone Wolf Distributors makes the best 4.5# connector on the market for any Glock. Do you need anything else? Maybe a nice 25 cent polish job which you can do at home with some Flitz Polish and a few Q-Tips; or, you could go completely nutz and install a nice set of Truglo, 'TFO' sights. ;)

dango 06-14-2008 12:27 AM

thanks !
 
just bought the steel guide rod and buffer. It just feels better.Might as well get the bar-sto,think I,m up to the challange.slite material removal right?

G21.45 06-14-2008 04:12 AM

:) Well, yes, there is very slight metal removal - if any - on a semi drop-in Bar-Sto barrel. Most of that is on the back lip of the hood, too. If the lugs need work you'll see the rub marks after cycling the slide several times in a row. All you're really doing is helping the pistol to more easily return to battery. It's not that difficult to do.

What buffer did you get for your Glock? Glocks don't tend to do well with recoil buffers of any kind. Did you mean to say, recoil spring? (And, again, a 9mm Glock really doesn't need a barrel upgrade. This is one time when the pistol actually is nearly perfect as it comes from the factory.)

The only, 'improvements' I can think of for a 9mm Glock are a 4.5# connector and better sights - Other than a steel guide rod, that's about it!

dango 06-15-2008 02:35 AM

dango recoil buffer ;
 
I read an artical in some magazine that the metal slide impacts the polymer frame every cycle.The buffer is installed at the muzzel end of the recoil spring. Claims reduced recoil,enhanced control,and longer service life. ? I value you,er input !

dango 06-15-2008 02:40 AM

dodge city ?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by dango (Post 27978)
I read an artical in some magazine that the metal slide impacts the polymer frame every cycle.The buffer is installed at the muzzel end of the recoil spring. Claims reduced recoil,enhanced control,and longer service life. ? I value you,er input !

BILL WHO ?

G21.45 06-15-2008 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dango (Post 27978)
I read an article in some magazine that the metal slide impacts the polymer frame every cycle.The buffer is installed at the muzzle end of the recoil spring. Claims reduced recoil,enhanced control,and longer service life? I value your input!

:) You're talking about that Shok-Buf thing. If your experience is typical, your Glock will chew that sucker up in less than 150 rounds. The first thing you'll see is thin hairline cracks in the buffer. If, after that, you leave the piece inside the pistol it'll start shedding chunks of plastic that just might jam the gun.

In one short sentence: Works in a 1911; (for which it was invented) doesn't work in a Glock, (for long) though. Thanks for the compliment. Use the right weight recoil spring: You and your Glock will be fine. ;)

pistolwhip23 06-15-2008 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G21.45 (Post 27981)
:) You're talking about that Shok-Buf thing. If your experience is typical, your Glock will chew that sucker up in less than 150 rounds. The first thing you'll see is thin hairline cracks in the buffer. If, after that, you leave the piece inside the pistol it'll start shedding chunks of plastic that just might jam the gun.

In one short sentence: Works in a 1911; (for which it was invented) doesn't work in a Glock, (for long) though. Thanks for the compliment. Use the right weight recoil spring: You and your Glock will be fine. ;)

yea glocks dont need upgrades like 1911's do...

dango 06-15-2008 01:24 PM

Thanks Again.
 
And happy fathers day to all. Mr.G21.45 and Pistol whip 23,thanks again for the sound advise.I,m pretty mechanicly savy but I,m not really clear on the true workings of the modern pistols.I am prone to go with the hands on sort of guy-vs-the architech. What works on paper, dose,nt always work in reality.I do not know if in fact the travel of the slide poses any impact problems.I put my faith in you,re wisdom . To move on,you mentioned to select proper weight recoil spring.Is it determined buy ammo selection or what ? Most of the adds I see only require model number?

G21.45 06-15-2008 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dango (Post 28008)
.... I do not know if in fact the travel of the slide poses any impact problems. I put my faith in your wisdom.

:eek: Ouch! That's a heavy responsibility. ;)

Quote:

To move on, you mentioned to select proper weight recoil spring. Is it determined buy ammo selection or what? Most of the adds I see only require model number?
Proper spring weight in a Glock can be an issue. To the best of my knowledge, the 9mm Glocks are the only ones that aren't noticeably under sprung. The correct factory spring weight for a G-17 is 17#'s. (Same as a G-21 & G-22) You can go lighter; you can, also, go heavier. The trick is to match the spring to the load that you're shooting.

In my experience the best way to do this is to watch how your brass is ejecting. Generally speaking, if ejected cases are falling within 2 feet of the pistol, the spring is heavy; if the brass is falling at, or around, 3 feet the spring is about right for that load. If the brass is getting thrown between 4 and 6 feet, the spring is light for that load.

In any event, first, see what the factory standard spring does then compare the performance of your other spring weights against the standard spring. A spring that is too heavy may fail to eject or feed. A spring that is too light may cause the pickup rail to miss the top cartridge and fail to feed or eject.

Going up or down by 2#'s shouldn't cause a problem. Many competition shooters will reduce spring weight by 2, or more, pounds. This is because lighter springs seem to reduce perceived recoil by not jarring the pistol or disturbing the sights as much.

All about recoil springs and guide rods:

Spring Wars!

Wolff Gunsprings FAQ


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