guide rod's
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Old 07-08-2008, 09:57 PM   #1
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Default guide rod's

i got a stock g20 and want to put a new guide rod in it. i hear about stainless steal all the time. i found a tungston on that looks good and i was wondering if its worth the money.

http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/7_Parts+%26amp%3B+Accessories/7040_Tungsten+Guide+Rod/?return=%3ftpl%3Dindex%26category_id%3D7%26_Parts% 2B%26amp%3B%2BAccessories%2F

this url will take u right to the part.

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Old 07-09-2008, 12:02 AM   #2
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Tungsten is pretty brittle and quite heavy. I'd stick with the stainless steel guide rod.

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Old 07-09-2008, 02:14 AM   #3
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I second the motion to stay away from tungsten. It is, indeed, heavy and a lot less flexible than steel. My suggestion? Wolff Gunsprings, non-captured, NP3 coated, 'All Steel' guide rod. Mine have been flawless through more than 10,000-12,000 rounds.

http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/GlockNF.html

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Old 07-09-2008, 04:35 AM   #4
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What's wrong with the one you've got?

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Old 07-09-2008, 03:38 PM   #5
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Sprinco recoil reducer. Captive secondary spring ala HK-USP and stainless guide rod. Made by a friend of mine here in ATX. Great product. I have two of their guide rods in pistols 10K+ w/o problems.
www.sprinco.com

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Old 07-13-2008, 04:46 AM   #6
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Default Guide Rod Question ?

I bought a WOLFF Bros.stainless spring and rod assembly and it seems to not quite stay in the half moon divot completely.I don,t think it,s a problem,but tell me, is this normal ?

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Old 07-13-2008, 05:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dango View Post
I bought a WOLFF Bros.stainless spring and rod assembly and it seems to not quite stay in the half moon divot completely. I don,t think it,s a problem,but tell me, is this normal ?
What are you smoking, now?

I assume you mean, 'Wolff Gunsprings'. If so, their non-captured steel recoil guide rod is NOT supposed to stay in the ASSEMBLY NOTCH for any longer than it takes to put the slide on the frame. (Got it?)

By the way, how's the pistol shoot?
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:32 PM   #8
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Default Have,nt Had Time !

I took you.re advice on the up-grades,kept it minimal.As far as shooting,I have,nt had much time . I,m really under the gun on a project I,ve been working on and have,nt had a day off in quite a while.When I finish it, I,m going to have a plenty of time to play,so I,ll get back to you later.
THANKS AGAIN !

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Old 07-13-2008, 03:34 PM   #9
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I've got an extra stainless guide rod with encapsulated spring if your interested.

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Old 07-14-2008, 02:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dango View Post
I took you.re advice on the up-grades,kept it minimal.As far as shooting,I have,nt had much time . I,m really under the gun on a project I,ve been working on and have,nt had a day off in quite a while.When I finish it, I,m going to have a plenty of time to play,so I,ll get back to you later. THANKS AGAIN !
OK, you should be fine as long as you remember to PUT THE SPRING ON THE ROD IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION - The smaller diameter always goes on first and butts up against the guide rod's button head. When the pistol is assembled the rod drops out of the assembly notch and rides in the bottom of the frame in front of the lock block.

I think you'll find the whole slide cycling action will be a lot smoother from now on, too. Other Glock owners I know who've made the switch (myself included) have not gone back to the plastic rods. With hotter (or snappier) loads a metal guide rod is a necessity.

And, you're welcome!





ADDED: Don't make that other all too common mistake that will prevent you from operating the slide and cause it to become stuck in place:

Whenever you place the slide on the frame, first put your thumb on the guide rod's button head and make sure it's pressed tightly into the assembly notch. From now on don't forget to do this; and, you won't have to post something like;

'How Do I Get My Glock's Slide Unstuck?'
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