Gold Dot .123gr +P for a Glock 19 - Page 3
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:55 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by gorknoids View Post
A guy I know told me that a friend of his heard from a guy who read on the internet (Are you with me so far?) that the issue with +P isn't so much with overpressure, but heat. Or for Canebrake, erosion over explosion.
Thermal dynamics plays a small part when compared to initial pressures.

The only time heat enters the equation is when rapid fire is persistent and no time is allotted for cool-down.

Sound good?

Makes as much sense as that airedale does!
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:14 AM   #22
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canebrake, you'll like this one.....



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Old 02-10-2009, 02:27 AM   #23
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canebrake, you'll like this one..
OUT FREAKIN' STANDING, SARGENT!

You will see this somewhere in the future!

Probably more than once!
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:34 AM   #24
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Another newbie question. How do I tell if it is a lead bullet or not? If it is FMJ with a copper jacket, I'm good, right? So many companies make 9mm rounds, it's a lot harder to find a good brand than when I'm looking for Fiveseven ammo which is only made by 2 companies and meant specifically for my weapon (and the P90). What are some good reasonably priced brands of 9mm rounds that are OK to put through my Glock at the range? I'm already pretty much set on the Gold Dot .124 gr +P, but I'm still looking for some good range/practice ammo to use.
Wally World WWB is always a safe bet. Georgia Arms is consistently good.
CCI Blazer, Speer 3995 and Magtech Bulk should be OK.
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:09 AM   #25
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Another newbie question. How do I tell if it is a lead bullet or not?
Lead, commonly called wadcutter; Glock BAD!!



FMJ usually copper jacketed; Glock GOOD!

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Old 02-10-2009, 02:30 PM   #26
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I'm not familiar with the brand.
At 1K + rounds I would guess one of three things, you have an aftermarket barrel, you keep a clean weapon or, you probably won't have a problem.
With that said, I would strip the G20, brakeclean the barrel and scrub with a nylon stiff brush. Get an eye loupe (magnifying glass) and inspect the barrel at the throat with extreme prejudice. If it looks good get some die makers ink (or a blue magic marker) and cover the entire area, them wipe with a cotton cloth. If the blue doesn’t wipe off dampen (small steps, little water) the cloth and try again. If the blue remains try a wet nap (alcohol wipe) and see if any cracks show up. (Poor man’s magna flux) No spider cracks, just keep doing what you have been as far as maintenance. Continue the inspection with every strip down.
Call HSM and tell them you’re a loyal customer and this is the info you have just discovered. Let them tell you their take on the glock issue. Base your future purchases on their response.
Remember the photos in my post are for my G22 chambered in 40 S & W. When you have your G20 stripped, drop a round into the chamber and check the unsupported case area. I have no experience with 10 mike mike. You may find this a non-issue. Although you should check your chambers (and clean with a chamber brush, which is bigger than a bore brush, See .45 ACP Chamber Cleaning Tool) on all guns for the spider cracking. It’s just common sense. COMMON SENSE WENT INTO EFFECT AT 0600 hrs THIS AM!

Be safe out there and please use you’re most powerful weapon first, your brain!

Cane, HSM said that it is all good with their ammo. I forgot to mention that I only shoot FMJ out of my 10mm or winchester silver tips. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:47 PM   #27
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Hey Cane.. This is the reason I chose my Beretta .40 over a Glock .40. The Beretta uses a factory barrel that fully supports the case. Sig and Glock are good guns, but they do not fully support the case like I wanted in a .40

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Old 03-20-2009, 06:21 PM   #28
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Are +P loads within SAAMI specs?

I'm just asking because I normally don't mess with +P loadings, that's all.
By definition, no. +P loadings are close to NATO specifications though. As that is what the GLOCK was designed to shoot, it would be GTG.

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EVERY GLOCK OWNER SHOULD KNOW THIS!

Do Not Shoot Reloads (Weakened Brass)

GLOCK Warranty; The use of reloaded ammunition will void the Glock warranty.

If you want to shoot reload or lead ammo you should install an aftermarket barrel.

Do Not Shoot Reloads[/SIZE][/B] (Weakened Brass)

Glocks have an unsupported chamber.

First of all "unsupported chamber" is a misleading term: all barrels must support the round in the chamber. Furthermore, all guns that use the modified Browning action have _partially_ supported chambers. In order to make the Glock function reliably with the widest possible selection of ammunition it has a "less supported" chamber than other guns. This is why reloaded ammunition is not recommended in Glock pistols. If you choose to shoot reloads, please consider an aftermarket barrel.



Note the unsupported brass with the Glock compared to the Springer XD.



This is why I shoot only factory-new ammo and retired my G22 to house gun status.
This has nothing to do with GLOCK's pistols, but rather with a company policy. All manufacturers say "Don't shoot reloaded ammunition." GLOCK actually means it. If your GLOCK KBs because of a firearm issue, they will pay for it to be fixed. If your GLOCK KBs because of an ammunition issue, the ammunition manufacturer will pay to fix it. If you made the ammo, then you get to pay for it.

HSM is not reloaded ammunition. (Neither is Georgia Arms). It is remanufactured ammunition. HSM and Georgia Arms pay a living crap-ton of money to the government to have a specific FFL (Type 06) and to insurance companies to cover themselves.

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Hey Cane.. This is the reason I chose my Beretta .40 over a Glock .40. The Beretta uses a factory barrel that fully supports the case. Sig and Glock are good guns, but they do not fully support the case like I wanted in a .40
No auto-loader will fully support the case. It can't chamber if it does.
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Old 03-20-2009, 07:42 PM   #29
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Old 03-21-2009, 03:18 AM   #30
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Cane, you ARE the PRO. When it comes to the proper posts, you got them all put to shame HANDS DOWN

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