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Old 12-19-2012, 04:33 PM   #21
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I may contact a mod about just moving the whole thread...
Good thinkin'. Contact Cane, he's your guy.
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:35 PM   #22
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I know a slightly easier way to get their attention
The mods may not like it, but here it goes... Reporting my own post in 3...2...1...

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Old 12-19-2012, 05:21 PM   #23
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Uh oh... Did you mess something up?
No...Nothing like that. I generally try to do as much stuff myself.

For example, when I do a home project, and if I think I'm going to mess something up, I call my father in law to help me with it.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:23 PM   #24
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I think your better off starting a new thread on the topic in the 1911 forum. On the sight issue that is. You will get better info onbthe finishing aspect here

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Old 12-19-2012, 05:43 PM   #25
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That was quick...

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Old 12-19-2012, 06:00 PM   #26
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That was quick...
It's magic... :-P
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:55 AM   #27
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If you want my opinion, here goes. From what you have said about him, I would not use him. As for bluing on your own, what ever process you use, I advise you to practice on scrap metal or smaller parts before doing the slide and frame. The quality of your finish will largely depend on your prep and polish work and how well you stick to manufacture's instructions with the process that you use. Your best bluing will come from using hot caustic salts or very labor intensive rust bluing, both of which are my favorites. The price he quoted, if you decide to use him, is not a bad price, if he is doing the prep, polishing and using hot caustic salts.


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Old 12-26-2012, 06:16 PM   #28
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PRice sounds fair for a complete strip, prep, and blueing or parkerizing. I find parkerizing to be a more practical finish since it holds oil better than bluing. Parkerizing and then using a modern resin type coating over it really adds protection and some self lubricating qualities, but if you are against it, I'd still go with the park vice bluing for the best protection.

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