[ARnoob]

Originally Posted by TheOldMan

A can certainly appreciate your apprehention in wanting to dive in and do this yourself. I didn't know the first thing about using an airbrush either until I did my first gun but it turned out very nice. I've added a picture of the alloy frame of a winchester 290 that I did for a friend of mine. Key things to remember is to follow the directions to the letter (both in shaking the bottle for three minutes after the ball releases inside and getting the correct mix between paint and hardener).. For very reasonable cost, I think it pays for itself. Firearm prep is also key to a good finish.

Quite nice work there. As for the preparation of the firearms, I don't have the tools for that, so that would be an issue as well.

If I'd just be doing the polymer furniture, I don't believe there would be much prep, other than just making sure that its clean. I may just give it a shot.

[ARnoob]

Originally Posted by lonyaeger

I did both my AR and my 10/22 with Duracoat. I used the kit.

You said "strip the original finish." Unless the gun has been painted before, yoiu don't have to do anything to the existing finish, other than degrease it, which is ESSENTIAL.

It's easy to do. It looks fantastic. Doesn't take a lot of room. Does NOT take two weeks to cure, unless you're going to put the weapon through the wringer. You can reassemble and use within a few days. And it's fun!

I'll post photos of the two rifles I did when I get a chance.

What exactly does degreasing entail? Thanks.

[lonyaeger]

Originally Posted by ARnoob

What exactly does degreasing entail? Thanks.

The kit comes with a solution and a scrubber that you use to be sure that any surface that you're going to paint is completely grease-free. You can just pour it into a disposable cup to soak, clean, and scrub any small parts.

[TheOldMan]

Duracoat does recommend that the part your painting be roughened up to help facilitate adherence of the finish. Duracoat also continues to harden or "set" several weeks after application.

Great stuff though. Sure beats Krylon

[ARnoob]

Originally Posted by lonyaeger

The kit comes with a solution and a scrubber that you use to be sure that any surface that you're going to paint is completely grease-free. You can just pour it into a disposable cup to soak, clean, and scrub any small parts.

Thanks. I thought that I needed some kind of pressure hose to blast any old finish off. But it doesn't sound that bad.

[ARnoob]

Originally Posted by TheOldMan

Duracoat does recommend that the part your painting be roughened up to help facilitate adherence of the finish. Duracoat also continues to harden or "set" several weeks after application.

Great stuff though. Sure beats Krylon

I wonder if I just did the poly furniture, if I could use some '00' steel wool....

[lonyaeger]

Originally Posted by ARnoob

Thanks. I thought that I needed some kind of pressure hose to blast any old finish off. But it doesn't sound that bad.

But are you sure there's actually a "finish" on what you're going to paint? That's what I'm not understanding. What exactly are you painting?

[ARnoob]

Originally Posted by lonyaeger

But are you sure there's actually a "finish" on what you're going to paint? That's what I'm not understanding. What exactly are you painting?

You're right. There's no finish that I'm aware of. I'd just be painting over polymer.

[danf_fl]

Originally Posted by lonyaeger

The kit comes with a solution and a scrubber that you use to be sure that any surface that you're going to paint is completely grease-free. You can just pour it into a disposable cup to soak, clean, and scrub any small parts.

Some chemicals do not like styrofoam.

[lonyaeger]

Originally Posted by danf_fl

Some chemicals do not like styrofoam.

By "disposable," I meant a cup that you aren't so fond of it that you can't throw it away.

ARnoob, you should be good to go on painting the polymer.

Of course, I claim no responsibility... !