Removing shellac and Tung Oil - Page 2
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA357 View Post
There isn't that much difference in the color if the pics are good. If that's the case, call it done and put it back together. It's a rifle, not a piano.
You know, I have to agree.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:26 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by canebrake View Post
Here's the bottom line, you have three pieces of furniture with three different grain run directions.

YOU WILL NEVER GET THEM TO MATCH! (Unless you paint them solid.)

Do one of the following two options:
1. Put the damn thing back together and be extremely proud of your work, and justifiably so!

2. If you have a piece that is lighter than the other two, and you MUST try to correct it, strip it completely to bare wood. Take a Bernz-Torch with a flame spreader and LIGHTLY go over the wood to enhance the grain. What happens is the softer pulp wood burns and darkens and the harder grain remains in contrast. GO EASY, don't charcoal the part! After a few passes do a light sanding or steel wool and if more contrast is desired go back after it with the torch.
Remember Occam's razor, or the law of parsimony. In science, the simplest theory that fits the facts of a problem is the one that should be selected. (SEE # 1 above)
Thanks. You're right. I'm going to just leave it as it, and be happy with it.
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:18 PM   #13
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Good deal. Please post some pics of the finished project.

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Old 07-29-2010, 09:14 PM   #14
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Good deal. Please post some pics of the finished project.
You bet!
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:06 AM   #15
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Good deal. Please post some pics of the finished project.
Here you go....
img_9114.jpg   img_9135.jpg   img_9151.jpg  
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:48 AM   #16
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It came out great! Nice job.

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Old 08-09-2010, 03:36 PM   #17
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It came out great! Nice job.
Thanks, and thanks for the tips.
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:36 AM   #18
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Not to take away from the above fellow's project. Why do most people put
a "piano" finish on a military firearm? If we collect military firearms then
we need to finish them accordingly. I see guys all the time trying to duplicate a Weatherby Over and Under LTD edition finish on an M1 Garand. It's like putting patten leather shoes on with your coveralls. Shellac? Good for an undercoat or as a sealer, but as a topcoat it will turn white if it gets wet. There are dozens of finishes that can be used on firearms that will give you superior
results. You don't want candy apple red metal flake on your duck boat and you don't want a polished mirror finish on your military rifle. Unless, of course you are marching in a parade! Then chrome the bayonet.

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Old 08-25-2010, 04:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA357 View Post
It came out great! Nice job.

Ditto ARnoob very nice work!

Major, welcome to the FTF..This being your first posting, I'd advise that you go to the intro thread and tell us a little about yourself.. that being said, to some extent I agree with your comments concerning putting too much spit and polish into our firearms "HOWEVER", as you may already know, some battle rifles come with shelac finishes already on them for example the Mosin Nagant.

I'm a proponent of restoring old milsurps and have been doing so for several years. Most of the stock work I do ends up with probably more sheen to it than came from the factory but then again I'm taking steps to preserve the finish and want the wood and the firearm to last for many more years to come. I don't intend to ever take the rifle into battle as was the case when they were first built so feel somewhat justified in applying a better finish to my projects. I would go far enough to argue that in some cases the finish I've applied may be just the same finish that the firearm had when it was first fielded.

In either case, you've got purists and you've got restorers.. Purists love the dents and dings and restorers don't.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:17 AM   #20
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They all look good. What did you do to get the red AK color?

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