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-   -   Noob refinishing a .38??? or no? (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f54/noob-refinishing-38-no-47654/)

Gh0zt36 09-02-2011 06:51 AM

Noob refinishing a .38??? or no?
 
Hi I found a thread on what I'd like to do to my S&W mod 10-7 .38 spcl heres the link http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/s-w-mod-10-7-refinish-38383/index2.html#post573413 but it was an ancient thread so I dunno if i'll get a reply. So could someone take a look at what this guy did and let me know if this is somthing you guys would recommend a first time n00b re finisher try ? anyone know if this gun would be too complicated for me to disassemble and reassemble? appreciate the help

TheOldMan 09-02-2011 01:19 PM

Although I've done quite a few restorations using a spray on finish for shotguns and rifles, I've always "prefered" to do a high polish and blueing for revolvers when that was the original finish. Certainly refinishing the revolver might be slightly more complex, but, there's always a first time for everything. I believe if you have the basic mechanical skills you'll have no problem with your Smith. I'm partial to DuraCoat for spray on finishes since I've had great luck with it on many of my projects.

If you plan to do a polish and reblue, I suggest you use glass beads rather than aluminum oxide.. it is less abrasive and leaves a more polished finish to work off of. If you plan to "paint" it, then oxide is the best since you need a rougher surface for the paint to adhere to.

In additon to several books, there are also many videos and instruction guides to help in your tear donw and rebuild of the revolver. I'd also suggest taking pictures as you tear it down so you can always go back to see where that screw went ( lol )..

Gh0zt36 09-02-2011 06:53 PM

Well its parkerised now not blued , would you say that makes a difference is how one would choose what to refinish with? and i accidentally used bore cleaner to instead of rust protectant cause bottles were similar and the labels were missing... and the parkerising is really worn because of that could i just apply right over or do you think it still needs to be median blasted? forgive my amateur questions as i said ive never done this before

BillDeShivs 09-03-2011 06:34 AM

Bore cleaner will not harm or remove Parkerizing or bluing. Rub a little oil on the spot ant it will look better.

Gh0zt36 09-04-2011 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillDeShivs (Post 573899)
Bore cleaner will not harm or remove Parkerizing or bluing. Rub a little oil on the spot ant it will look better.

I dunno bout that one there guy. if it wasn't the bore cleaner then the parkerizing spontaneously just thinned out. not being smart but after i bore cleanered it the parkerizing almost immediately thinned

BillDeShivs 09-04-2011 07:31 PM

Bore cleaners are made to clean guns. Why would anyone make one that damages a finish normally found on guns? :rolleyes:

TheOldMan 09-06-2011 11:41 AM

To my knowledge, none of the products used for cleaning purposes will remove park from a gun. About the only way I know to remove parkarizing is a blaster (beads or alum oxide)... If the finish that was on your gun started to thin out once the bore cleaner was applied, then it was NOT a park finish. ( Bill is correct )

If your firearm was already a park style finish, then I would apply that type of finish back on it. Most of the 10-7 38's I've seen were blued which kinda makes me think it got some type of matte finish later in it's life. If you would prefer the blued finish, then I would recomment taking it to someone who does this profesionally. There is a lot involved in restoring a polished blue finish that the ordinary guy can't accomplish at home easily.

Pictures of your firearm would be nice so we could help you further...

Gh0zt36 09-07-2011 04:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Too late I sold it and bought this Dan wesson .357 purdy aint she


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