[texaswoodworker]

I've decided that I want to refinish my Mossberg 500. I don't care for what ever kind of finish they used at the factory, because it is pretty easy to scratch and is kind of coarse (I don't know if it is supposed to be, I just know it is).
I want to put something much more durable on, but I've never done anything like this, so I'm at a loss.
I have heard a ton of good things and bad things about Cerakote, and Duracote. I have also heard a few good things about Brownell's Aluma-Hide II. Basically, all I want is a finish that is easy to do, cheap, and durable.
I'm probably going to go with satin black for the reciever and barrel, and I'm thinking about maybe doing the stock in dark earth so that it will match my AR when it's done.
Any suggestions?

Also, What would I have to do to the gun itself? Could I just put the new finish over the old, or would I have to get it down to bare metal?

Thanks

[texaswoodworker]

bump....

[Babyfacenelson]

I think you should trade it for cash and buy an 870

As far as i know (not far ). You dont need to remove the old finish, just start on the new on. I have heard good things about duracoat, never used it myself.

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by Babyfacenelson

I think you should trade it for cash and buy an 870

As far as i know (not far ). You dont need to remove the old finish, just start on the new on. I have heard good things about duracoat, never used it myself.

I happen to like that Mossberg. I also happen to like 870s too, but the Mossberg stays.

If I don't have to remove the finish, that would be a huge help.

Random question. I looked at both Cerakote's, and Duracotes websites and looked that their Magpul Dark Earth finishes. Why do they look so much darker than actual Magpul Dark Earth furniture?

[Babyfacenelson]

Aaand you went to far.
Cant help ya there.

If i had to guess it is probably just made from different chemicals and whatnot than actual magpuls, to avoid law suets and such.

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by Babyfacenelson

Aaand you went to far.
Cant help ya there.

If i had to guess it is probably just made from different chemicals and whatnot than actual magpuls, to avoid law suets and such.

I can see how the chemical thing could be true, but both products actually have Magpul in their name, so I don't think they are worried about lawsuits (they probably have some deal with Magpul).

[KitchenGunsmith86]

I've worked plenty with duracoat before. And by the way your Mossy is a great gun.

Duracoat loves porous surfaces to grab on to. But it also loves bare metal. Putting it on the old finish will make it wear off super fast. There is a million ways to get your old finish off, from sandblasting to high grit sand paper To brake cleaner. All great choices. Spray it. The longer it cures the better. Literally a month of not touching it is best.

From there you'll be in great shape and glad you did it. Money very well spent. Get one of the duracoat shake and spray kits by the way

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by KitchenGunsmith86

I've worked plenty with duracoat before. And by the way your Mossy is a great gun.

Duracoat loves porous surfaces to grab on to. But it also loves bare metal. Putting it on the old finish will make it wear off super fast. There is a million ways to get your old finish off, from sandblasting to high grit sand paper To brake cleaner. All great choices. Spray it. The longer it cures the better. Literally a month of not touching it is best.

From there you'll be in great shape and glad you did it. Money very well spent. Get one of the duracoat shake and spray kits by the way

Thanks for the info. I have a cheap sandblaster form Tractor Supply, and I'm not really sure that would do a good job. What kind of place could I look for that could sand blast it for me, and what kind of sandblasting should they do?

By hgh grit sandpaper, are you talking about like 320 grit, or more like in the 1000s?

If I do the break cleaner option, do I just soak the parts in it? How long does that take? Is there anything I should worry about if I do this?

Thanks

[KitchenGunsmith86]

If you can't think of a place off hand by you that has a blaster and cabinet then I wouldn't pay anybody. The two best things of doing it yourself is #1 the fun and experience of it and #2 the cost savings. So my next choice would be the brake cleaner or carb cleaner with quad odd steel wool.

Or lastly you can take your parts and soak them in white vinegar. It's cheap and it loosens it up. That though usually works best for blueing.

Oh yeah also stuff called naval jelly will work as well to take it off.

I'd go with the carb cleaner or brake cleaner and 0000 steel wool. Just do not whatever you do get it on anything plastic or wood. It will melt or stain. Skip the sand paper only use it as last resort. 1000 grit or higher. You can find those types at autozone. Rememember remove the finish not the metal. Good luck let me know what you do and how it goes.

[texaswoodworker]

Originally Posted by KitchenGunsmith86

If you can't think of a place off hand by you that has a blaster and cabinet then I wouldn't pay anybody. The two best things of doing it yourself is #1 the fun and experience of it and #2 the cost savings. So my next choice would be the brake cleaner or carb cleaner with quad odd steel wool.

Or lastly you can take your parts and soak them in white vinegar. It's cheap and it loosens it up. That though usually works best for blueing.

Oh yeah also stuff called naval jelly will work as well to take it off.

I'd go with the carb cleaner or brake cleaner and 0000 steel wool. Just do not whatever you do get it on anything plastic or wood. It will melt or stain. Skip the sand paper only use it as last resort. 1000 grit or higher. You can find those types at autozone. Rememember remove the finish not the metal. Good luck let me know what you do and how it goes.

Thanks, I'll post pics of it when I finish it.