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-   -   Matte finish (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f54/matte-finish-94480/)

ALfiremedic1 07-27-2013 12:08 AM

Matte finish
 
Hey guys. I have a smith and Wesson 1911 and the matte finish is beginning to turn to polished in a few places. I like the matte finish and want to refinish the slide, but don't want the polished finish. Anything I can do?

Axxe55 07-27-2013 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALfiremedic1 (Post 1316437)
Hey guys. I have a smith and Wesson 1911 and the matte finish is beginning to turn to polished in a few places. I like the matte finish and want to refinish the slide, but don't want the polished finish. Anything I can do?

the difference in polished blueing and matte finish is the item's condition prior to blueing it as both are done with the same product. polished blueing comes from polishing the metal prior to blueing to a high sheen finish almost looking like dull chrome and is usually done on buffing wheels and polishing compounds starting with a cours and working down to finer compounds. a matte finish is usually acheived with just bead blasting the items to be blued and then come out looking a matte finished black.

the reason that many fireams that are matte finished are less expensive than highly polished blued is that the items can be bead blasted rather quickly with little skill involved, where polished blued items require a higher degree of skill an much more time to produce.

ALfiremedic1 07-27-2013 01:08 AM

So your referring to hot blueing? So I could finish polishing the slide and then hot blue it? Or would cold blueing work?

Axxe55 07-27-2013 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALfiremedic1 (Post 1316468)
So your referring to hot blueing? So I could finish polishing the slide and then hot blue it? Or would cold blueing work?

yes, i was refering to hot tank blueing. IMO, sometimes cold blueing can be hit or miss. it really depends on the metal you are trying to re-blue with it. i have done some jobs with cold blueing that turned out quite excellent and looked great, and i have done some that looked like pure crap. some of that also depends on which cold blueing product you use.

trip286 07-27-2013 03:23 AM

Just don't cold blue it. I have recent experience with that. It turned out looking pretty damn good, but it's not worth it, and it doesn't seem as durable as hot blue. Plus, it's harder to cold blue in the tight nooks and crannies of the frame. Easier to dunk it. Or, find someone who has a reasonable price.

I'm getting mine redone in black parkerizing soon for $30. I just want to get a fitted beaver tail before I send it in. I've seen the guy's work. He's been redoing Katrina guns since '05 for customers who's homes had been flooded, so he has probably more experience in refinishing than some lifetime smiths.

Axxe55 07-27-2013 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trip286 (Post 1316628)
Just don't cold blue it. I have recent experience with that. It turned out looking pretty damn good, but it's not worth it, and it doesn't seem as durable as hot blue. Plus, it's harder to cold blue in the tight nooks and crannies of the frame. Easier to dunk it. Or, find someone who has a reasonable price.

I'm getting mine redone in black parkerizing soon for $30. I just want to get a fitted beaver tail before I send it in. I've seen the guy's work. He's been redoing Katrina guns since '05 for customers who's homes had been flooded, so he has probably more experience in refinishing than some lifetime smiths.

i have seen some nice cold blued guns, but hot blueing is a much better way of blueing. like Trip said, it gets dunked! gets into every nook and cranny. if it's available, it does give a much better finish when completed.


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