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-   -   Hot Bluing (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f54/hot-bluing-29780/)

TheOldMan 07-28-2010 03:15 PM

Hot Bluing
 
Guys...

There has always been cross talk on what finishes to use on firearms i.e.: DuraCoating, Rust Blue, Park, Cold Blue etc.. I've done a bit of restoration work and so far have been able to do all my work with DuraCoat or Cold Blue.. Now I believe it's time to get into the prof. finishing processes and setup for hot bluing.

I want the bare bones of what I'll need specific to getting a good hot blue job accomplished without slamming down 2k for a kit like brownells sells. I believe I could get away with a black iron tank for the bluing and another for the water bath, a burner, thermometer, and propane tank. I already have the safety gear (respirator etc..)

Anyone experienced in this process can set me up, I'd appreciate it.

danf_fl 07-28-2010 06:23 PM

Parkerizing is easier to start out with. And less impact from EPA.

TheOldMan 07-29-2010 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danf_fl (Post 321723)
Parkerizing is easier to start out with. And less impact from EPA.


I appreciate the response but I'm not wanting to parkerize, I'm wanting to hot blue. I've done a little research and found some information that will get me started I believe. You are correct about the environmental concerns though. Some pretty caustic stuff is being used here.

c3shooter 07-29-2010 12:37 PM

Eye and face protection (face shield) Good thermometer. I have done hot blue of small parts using heavy glassware and stainless steel containers. Brownells sells a stick that you daub on the inside of the tank- prevents bluing salts from climbing out of the tank. Do not overlook the water you are using- I use distilled to mix salts, and for the boiling water bath to set the blue. Old blow dryer (do not steal your wife's blow dryer) for blowing off parts. Iron wire to suspend parts in bluing bath. cotton gloves for handling parts after they are degreased.

TheOldMan 07-29-2010 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c3shooter (Post 322258)
Eye and face protection (face shield) Good thermometer. I have done hot blue of small parts using heavy glassware and stainless steel containers. Brownells sells a stick that you daub on the inside of the tank- prevents bluing salts from climbing out of the tank. Do not overlook the water you are using- I use distilled to mix salts, and for the boiling water bath to set the blue. Old blow dryer (do not steal your wife's blow dryer) for blowing off parts. Iron wire to suspend parts in bluing bath. cotton gloves for handling parts after they are degreased.


Outstanding... Thank you sir. I also found this link in another forum on the same topic:

Blindhogg custom gunworks

DrumJunkie 07-29-2010 02:15 PM

I was going to say that Brownells sells a kit to get started and has videos instructing how to do it right. c3shooter already has you pointed in the right direction.

stalkingbear 07-29-2010 02:33 PM

The kit that Brownells sells is what I used and contains everything you'll need to get started. If I don't go with something like the kit I invariably will forget several items. Once you get set up it don't cost anything except to replenish supplies occasionally. Brownells also sells cheaper kits. It won't take you long to recoup your investment with a set of hot bluing tanks. Since you're already into refinishing I'm sure you have polishing, media blasting, and surface prep equipment.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1114/Product/_FIRST_STEP__BLUING_KIT

TheOldMan 07-29-2010 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrumJunkie (Post 322287)
I was going to say that Brownells sells a kit to get started and has videos instructing how to do it right. c3shooter already has you pointed in the right direction.


Yes he does.. the link was something I found yesterday while doing a little webz researching.

Bear...

Thanks for your input also .. The Brownells kit is fantastic but for now, I cannot afford the 2K for it ( wish I did though ) and yes, I already have the rest of the equipment. Just got another buffer the other day so that I wouldn't have to keep switching buffing wheels all the time.

Most of the equipment was being used just for my own projects but now that I've branched off into working other folks guns, I need more gear ...:)


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