For now, read the Caswell document you can find here:
Introduction To Buffing and Polishing - Caswell Inc.
I'll update the document with your suggestions when I can. Might be awhile.
If I had to add anything;
Stacking 2 or 3 tightly wound wheels (or even felt wheels) can help keep a surface flat.
To limit damage to rollmarks, rotate the piece so you dont wear (dish) markings in one direction only. It's tempting to polish in one or two directions, but don't!
Do most 90% of the prep work with 400-600 grit paper - a good technique is to use spray adhesive to bond the fresh paper to a piece of glass for a flat surface. Use Aluminum Oxide paper - avoid cheap sandpaper that can leave tramp in the piece.
Clean the wheels between grades of polish, store them in a plastic bag so they dont pick up tramp particles between uses.
Use jewlers rouge as the final polish for a blinding polish.
You need a bench polisher of a reasonable size AND a dremel to get into the tight spaces and trigger guards.
The piece will get warm - that's actually needed to polish right. The polish doesn't work cold right. You might need tight fitting gloves.
You should wear a dust mask and your work area will become a total mess. My wife laughs at me on every polish job, because I end up looking like a coal miner. Very dirty business.
Underneath the polishing wheel, put an old pillow, or a cushion of some sort. You will at some point, lose your grasp of the piece, and it will fly down at a good velocity. You dont want it to hit concrete, or fly off into parts unknown.