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-   -   general question old gun refinish (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f54/general-question-old-gun-refinish-83522/)

toid 02-06-2013 02:09 AM

general question old gun refinish
 
Hey folks!
First off - I did a little searching but I have a slow connection speed and got frustrated... si I cheated and posted anyway. Sorry for breaching "forum ettiquite".
I'm new to gun collecting but as an ARMY vet, I've been a gun nut a while.
I picked up a '71 (I bleeve) Rem 742. It's good but needs a little love.
She's got some rust dots but not pitted deeply and some bluing rubbed off in a spot or two. I got some Duracoat (black oxide) on the way.
I am situationally ignorant but more capable than your average "handy".
How do I address the rust dots (don't know what else to call them) and achieve a smooth painable surface on the metal before painting?
I build and finish all sorts of things, from guitars to furniture, to a little auto-body, but don't know how to prep this metal to smooth the dots but not fill in the branding / serial numbers etc.
Never worked on bare metal without a filling primer.
Any help or suggestions would be great.
Thank you!
Rev. Toid

hiwall 02-06-2013 03:03 AM

Fine steel wool will most likely remove those rust dots. If you do not care if you remove the bluing, then you could use a Scotch Brite pad (green scrubby) (available at grocery stores). Before painting the metal has to be degreased.

toid 02-06-2013 03:16 AM

Will the wool leave a sufficiently smooth finish that the Duracoat will be smooth?
I'm not worried about the bluing, the barrel crown is already almost completely rubbed silver.
Thanks,
Rev. Toid

BillDeShivs 02-06-2013 04:47 AM

When Duracoating, it is suggested the metal be bead blasted and then Parkerized before painting.

rjd3282 02-06-2013 05:10 AM

I blast them with 120 grit aluminum oxide first. If you have pits I believe duracoat has a filler you can use first. Also if you use duracoat let the gun rest for a couple of months before you use it.

toid 02-06-2013 01:40 PM

parkerize - bead blasting
 
As I am not set up for parkerizing nor bead blasting... and am without the available budget to "tool up", I may be better off to either scrap the entire project or send it off to someone to do it for me.
I didn't realize it was so intensive in specialized processes.

jimmiep 02-09-2013 12:59 AM

bluing is not a finish over the metal. its a form of rust that is actually one with the carbon in the steel that just barely works into the surface of the metal. you can degrease the gun and paint over the surface with no problem. To remove the rust. use 0000 steel wool and some gun oil and workover the rust. it will disappear quickly and not disturb the metals finish at all.

Parkerizing the gun is a very hard surface finish on a gun. nice stuff, but you dont paint over it. To nice and expensive to ruin.

The duracoat is a nice finish. It is a soft finish and mars easily. So if you can bake the Duracoat, do so. Even if you use a heat lamp. It will make the finish harder and mor durable. I hope this helps. You can also Brown the gun to a dark black finish and you have all the tools for that you will need. Research it. Go to midway.com. They will have a video on the process. Browning is everybit as good as hot bluing.

BillDeShivs 02-09-2013 01:14 AM

I'll say it another way- the people who make Duracoat recommend that you apply the Duracoat over a Parkerized finish.

c3shooter 02-09-2013 01:26 AM

Before you paint it, try this- will cost about $2.00.

Grocery store, housewares aisle, COPPER Chore-boy scrubber. Not copper plated steel. Wet with light oil. Rub gently, changing to a clean part of pad. Gun will take on a coppery hue. Wet with light oil, rub with soft clean cloth- comes off. It MAY clean up pretty enough you decide to keep as is. Cold blue, when applied to a WARM, degreased, polished spot may do better than you hoped. Blue Wonder is as good as I have seen.

I have browned a few older 22s with Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown- not bad, quite durable.

TheOldMan 02-13-2013 06:27 PM

I agree (as always) with what C3 says.. A note on Dura-Coat though.. It is best applied to a surface that has a rough surface not a surface as what's left by bead blasting with glass beads.. The best surface for Dura-Coat is left from blasting with aluminum oxide... A scotch brite pad will also give you the roughness you need for the Dura-Coat to adhere if you have used glass beads in your blaster.. BTW, Dura-Coat is not a "soft" finish. It is extremely durable and is made to wear and last like Park or any other durable finish. The only reason you might suspect Duar-Coat not to hold up is if you neglected to apply enough coats and allowed it to cure properly or did not prep your firearm correctly. Unlike products like Cera-Coat, Dura-Coat goes on much thinner which means you can apply more without adding material which could inhibit the smooth action of the firearms operation.


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