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Old 10-26-2011, 05:29 PM   #1
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Default Firearm Painting - Unanswered Questions

Ok so I have read a lot of posts here on firearm painting as well as on other sites and I have some questions regarding the process and materials that I haven’t seen answered and that was kind of surprising to me. I figured I would lump them all into one thread here and hopefully some super brain painter artist type guy/gal will be able to answer them.

To start this off, there is no need to talk about prep work … I get it … do a good job, it’s all in the prep … this is more about products and materials.

The gun … Mossberg 500 tactical with pistol grip and adjustable stalk with shell holder. The reason to paint … I want to change it form the stock black to a tan/brown/green for turkey hunting.

The questions/Products:

Krylon paint – So most of the walkthroughs or posts have been with folks who used Krylon paint. There is a really good one here … Here … that I liked, so my questions are:
1. How durable is it? If I fire 6 shots in a row will it cook of the barrel and ruin?
2. Cleaning … can you even clean the gun? What happens if you get Hoppes or something on the barrel? On the stalk or forearm? Is it better to use something like Simple Green to clean?
3. Would some type of clear acrylic sealer help?
4. After the paint is applied and dried … several days for instance … does it feel sticky or tacky or rub off like a cheaply painted model?
5. Does it ‘harm’ the firearm in anyway?
6. Can it be removed without harming the firearm?

Duracoat – some sites point to duracoat … but this seems like a pain in the ass.
1. You need an airbrush or something to mix the chemicals in and spray it on … isn’t some of those things expensive for a once time use?
2. Cleaning … can you even clean the gun? What happens if you get Hoppes or something on the barrel? On the stalk or forearm? Is it better to use something like Simple Green to clean?
3. Will it cook off if the gun is fired rapidly?
4. How do you clean up after painting … I hear you need special cleaning materials?

Durabake – this was another option.
1. So you need to bake this crap at 350 for an hour … wont that MELT the plastics on the gun? Even 180 for 3-4 hours should render the stalk, forearm, etc a puddle of plastic on the bottom of the oven.
2. Cleaning … can you even clean the gun? What happens if you get Hoppes or something on the barrel? On the stalk or forearm? Is it better to use something like Simple Green to clean?
3. Will it cook off under rapid fire?

So I’m not looking to enter my firearm in a beauty contest, I just want it to be more natural looking in the woods while hunting, but I don’t want to f**k it up in the process or ruin it either.

Any practical real world hints, tips, answers?

Thanks in advance guys/gals.

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Old 10-26-2011, 07:47 PM   #2
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Aluma-Hyde II from Brownells. Air drying. So far, I've had good results.

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Old 10-26-2011, 08:42 PM   #3
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ACRhino, i have had great results with the Krylon Camo paints, one of my rifles has two years with no flaking or chipping. preparation is the key factor, no matter what you intend to use for a coating. beings as you are just doing a shotgun for hunting, i would recommend the Krylon Camo paint. i have even used it on the rocker panels of my truck, and going through mud, woods and the carwash have not chipped or flaked it yet. i recently tried the black Krylon Camo on the barrel of a 22 rifle, so far so good. first thing is to make sure the surface is very clean of any oils or fingerprints. i use different products to clean with, but the final cleaning is done with alcohol and lint free cloths. lightly scuff the surfaces with 3M scotchbrites (available at most auto parts stores) or fine steelwool. clean again. wipe down with alcohol again. then wipe down with a tack cloth. on the plastic or synthetic parts, spray a very light coat of adhesion promoter (again available at the auto parts store) let dry for at least an hour. then spray whatever color you want for the base, at least two light coats and let dry at least 15 minutes between coats. then just spray your pattern however you like. i make my own stencils to do this. on the metal, heat the metal with a propane torch, very lightly, just to warm the metal, then lay your base color down, then follow up with your other colors in your pattern. like i said i have been very pleased with the results so far. very durable, non glare finish and dry, not tacky at all. let your parts dry at least 24 hours before putting them back together. good luck.
camo-guns-shotguns-007.jpg   camo-guns-002-008.jpg   m4a2-006.jpg  
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:57 AM   #4
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Nice pics and all but still no real questions were answered.

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Old 10-27-2011, 02:23 AM   #5
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Here are a few pictures of my guns that I painted. I used krylon camo paint. It has not chipped or anything. I use hoppes bore cleaner in the barrel and on the action. Haven't had a problem with over spray messing up the paint or anything. I just use a moist rag to wipe down the parts that are painted. As to your question about paint messing up when shooting, I took the rifle to a "range" and shot about 20 round in about 30 minutes and the barrel was burning hot and the paint is holding up very well.

image-2509174663.jpg   image-3425833534.jpg   image-145887384.jpg   image-906511083.jpg  
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:12 AM   #6
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I've used duracoat and gun cleaning solvents don't bother it. Airbrushes aren't difficult to use but I highly recommend you use a a good one. I tried cheap and it gives very poor results. You wouldn't paint your car with an aerosol can would you?

Like everything else quality is the way to go.

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Old 10-27-2011, 10:25 AM   #7
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The difference between paints such as Aluma Hyde II and Duracoat and you're typical rattle can paints like Krylon, High Temp engin, BBQ, etc is that Aluma Hyde and Duracoat are expoxy paints. When they're cured they're very tough.

You just have to be patient on the curing process on both. I usually let anything I paint sit for about 3 weeks.

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Old 10-27-2011, 10:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzarkRecluse View Post
The difference between paints such as Aluma Hyde II and Duracoat and you're typical rattle can paints like Krylon, High Temp engin, BBQ, etc is that Aluma Hyde and Duracoat are expoxy paints. When they're cured they're very tough.

You just have to be patient on the curing process on both. I usually let anything I paint sit for about 3 weeks.
i agree that epoxy paints are somewhat tougher when cured, but paint preparation is key to any type of painting. plus epoxy paints are thicker. like i said before, one of my rifles has been done and used for about two years and no chipping or flaking yet. i don't abuse my guns, but i don't baby them either. plus even if they do get scratched up, i can touch them up very easily.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:39 AM   #9
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If you decide to go with paint, do yourself a favor: spray a piece of scrap wood, let it dry fully & then hit it with every cleaner and oil you are likely to use on the actual gun. My favorite CLP ate right through the paint job I did on a synthetic stock.

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Old 10-27-2011, 02:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: Duracoat

I do alot of Duracoat work. I have never played with krylon or any of the other products out there so I have no comparison for you. I can give you some duracoat tips if thats a route your thinking. First off, it is very durable if as you mentioned, the prep is good. Thats why I first started playing with it because I didnt trust spray paint. You do need an airbrush and that could be the downfall if its a onetime thing for you. I would recommend an Iwata HP-CS. They sell a starter kit with a compressor, the brush, etc. at TCP Global. 2nd, you need some cheap metal measuring spoons. (Bed Bath and Beyond for 6 bucks) Thats how you measure your hardner to Paint ratio. Mix it up, pour it into the brush, and off you go. anymore questions feel free to ask. You can check out some of my projects at Montaktical MTAK Duracoat I will be adding a bunch more on their soon. You can also email me if you need anymore help.

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