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-   -   Duracoat over Parkerized AK (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f54/duracoat-over-parkerized-ak-19163/)

diggsbakes 10-15-2009 04:47 AM

Duracoat over Parkerized AK
 
I'm preparing to apply a more durable and better looking finish to a parkerized AK. After doing a little reading I've decided that Duracoat would be the most appropriate product for this type of application and I have all of the tools required to complete.

This is my first metallic re-finish other than bluing touch-ups and I would appreciate any feedback or advise from anyone that has done this sort of project.

Other than furniture, selector and internals removal as well as rear sight masking is there any other "Don't Forget to..." or "Make sure to..." type words anyone can offer that would make this easier? I believe I will leave the barrel alone for now and just focus on the rest of the externals.

Thanks,
D

stalkingbear 10-26-2009 01:11 AM

Phosphate finishes like parkerizing makes excellent base for ceramic coatings. Just be SURE to degrease good and follow instructions to the letter.

diggsbakes 10-27-2009 10:45 PM

Alrighty. I've postponed the application because its been so cold and rainy here and the only place I'll be able to do this is the garage and temperature control is an issue, so I'll have plenty of time to read up before the weekend.

Thanks,
D

NwGun 11-01-2009 11:59 PM

Howdy, Diggsbakes

I am a Cerakote applicator (amongst other coatings like Duracoat) and I can tell you that if the parkerizing is not brand new with no oils on it whatsoever you can overcoat in Cerakote or Duracoat.
However, if the firearm has been parkerized for a while and has had its dowsing of oils, etc. I as a professional service would not take the chance.
The porosity of parkerizing really holds the oils to the metal quite well.
I suggest a complete dismantle, a major de-grease with a cleaning solvent, and a final bath in acetone, then a abrasive blast with aluminum oxide in 1200 mesh. I would then do another wash down in acetone, then heat the items up with a hair dryer to pull out any moisture. Allow them to cool down to room temp, then apply your coating.
Long term coating success on a firearm has a lot to do with appropriate and complete preparation.

I offer the above free of charge, with no warranties expressed or implied:D

diggsbakes 11-02-2009 01:59 PM

Well hell, I was just gonna take it out to the garage tear it down and hose the sh*t out of it with ethyl alcohol, use an old toothbrush for those "hard to reach" places, let it dry and start spraying. Now you got me all scared. Maybe I'll just try the dust cover and see how that goes, I'd hate to screw up my receiver.

NwGun 11-02-2009 02:21 PM

Sorry to have skeered you off your project.
I just know what happens when things are not 100% grease/oil/solvent free.
I actually pre-bake Mak 90's AK types in my curing oven right after blasting because even after ultra-sonic cleaning these types of rivet covered receivers still tend to hold oils.
When I bake them out at 300 degrees you can see the oils bleed out from under all of those rivets.
This really is not too much of a problem on ambient cure paints, but when using ceramic coatings it is a problem.

I think that if you use a paint like Duracoat over your super triple cleaned in acetone you may be O.K. Because
I'm charging fees for my finish work I tend to go overboard so my clients get the very best job possible, and I don't get a job back with a failed coating:D

diggsbakes 11-02-2009 05:28 PM

Understood why you would go overboard and I appreciate your professional advise (even if it did scare me a bit). I was gonna take it out to the garage today, but I don't know. I don't really have the option of baking it... there's a place in town that will do a Teflon coating (what kind I don't know) for $85.

RCHanlin 11-19-2009 06:26 PM

Take your time and do it right the first time. If you have already gotten the stuff to air brush with the Duracoat, then follow through. You will appreciate your weapon much more knowing the finish was your doing and no one elses.

You will not need to worry so much on the curring oven either.. Simply wash it as you intended and then dry in your home oven at a couple hundred degrees. If you see oils weeping out, wash again and dry again. then apply your Duracoat finish.

Good luck... I know how you feel. My first was my scariest. I've got several restorations under my belt now.. Learned a lot by trial and error. Never too expensive though.

Cheers:)


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