"Combat Gray" Glock 22 Slide
Once again, not my slide, but refinished for a member of another online community. :D
Ignore the residue around the engravings, I forgot to wipe off the black filler fully before taking the picture. :p
Yes you can buy a kit to use disposable canisters of air, but the quality is no where near using an airbrush or HVLP gun.
It would be like spray painting your car verses a body shop using a HVLP gun.
Buy a small cheap compressor for like $60.00 and a $25.00 airbrush and you are good to go. I've been using a cheap Passche airbrush for months now.
It runs it fine. You do not "thin" DuraCoat in the sense that you would with other types of paint materials.
Here are the basics;
Each package of DuraCoat comes with the DuraCoat and Hardener. This is like the catalyst for it curing.
A standard mix is 4 table spoons of DuraCoat and 1 tea spoon of Hardener, or a 12:1 ratio I believe.
With that said, you can mess with the ratios for different results, more hardener means more gloss in the color, less would be more of a matte result.
Now there are extra additives that can be ordered as well.
You have "Reducer" which is the closest thing to a "thinner" - but not exactly the same. Reducer is used if you need a really fine spray and to prevent clumping in high humidity areas. Italso is used to clean up afterwards in the event you don't have acetone or something on hand. The optimal mixture contains NO reducer!!!
Then you have "Retarder" - which basically keeps the hardener and DuraCoat from you know, doing their thing together and slows down the curing/drying. You use this if you have issues with the spray drying mid air before hitting the item. This causes a textured finish or a "cloudy" like finish. Sometimes people like this textured effect though.
Then you have your other DuraCoat stuff like clear coats, fillers, etc etc.
DuraCoat can be applied in .25 to 1.25ml thickness and usually dries to the touch in under an hour and you can reassemble the item in 24-48 hours. The top layers cure completely in about 30 days and continues to cure for months on a microscopic level. Its like wine, it gets better with time.
However, some of us have learned to expadite the initial hardiness of the curing by sticking it in an oven (or $20 toaster oven in my case) for about an hour at 200-300 degrees.
Anything I DuraCoat for someone goes into the oven for 1 hour at 300 degrees. It is then moved and placed in a climate controlled cabinet (fancy talk for a dedicated garage cabinet kept indoors with lots of moisture absorbing packets through out it) for two weeks.
This is to make sure the finish is not ruined by a user who is impatient and wants to take it out and use it in a 3-gun competition 3 days after its DuraCoated (as an example)
After 2 weeks it has hardened far beyond the usual wait times and is ready for most daily uses. I always recommend 30 days cure time for items that will see "extreme" use.
Damn that's a great write up, thank you and thanks for sharing, I'll have to try some of this stuff, there has to be a million uses for it now I think about. I've done scale models for many years so doing something practical with my brush will be a nice change.
Btw, I don't know if it would help you after baking a part, but I've used a food dehydrator to help out the drying process on what i do for years,
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