coloring ATI stock


Firearm & Gun Forum - FireArmsTalk.com > Gunsmithing & Do-It-Yourself Projects > Engraving & Refinishing > coloring ATI stock

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-10-2013, 01:52 AM   #1
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Default coloring ATI stock

I have an ATI stock on my Mosin Nagant and was wondering how to go about changing the color to od green. spray pant or is there a specific pant for that kind of plastic?



__________________
njnewbe is offline  
 
Reply With Quote

Join FirearmsTalk.com Today - It's Free!

Are you a firearms enthusiast? Then we hope you will join the community. You will gain access to post, create threads, private message, upload images, join groups and more.

Firearms Talk is owned and operated by fellow firearms enthusiasts. We strive to offer a non-commercial community to learn and share information.

Join FirearmsTalk.com Today! - Click Here


Old 07-10-2013, 03:08 AM   #2
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: nowhere,that other state
Posts: 944
Liked 319 Times on 197 Posts
Likes Given: 399

Default

I would use duracoat or cherakoat it will cost more but they are much more durable than spray paint.You also get much more color options.



__________________
gunnut07 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2013, 03:43 AM   #3
10-32
FTF_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
mountainman13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 11,525
Liked 2917 Times on 1718 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnut07 View Post
I would use duracoat or cherakoat it will cost more but they are much more durable than spray paint.You also get much more color options.
Dead on. I'll suggest duracoat once more though. Easier to work with.
__________________

I don't need No stinking signature.

mountainman13 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 01:26 AM   #4
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Default

ok sounds good, one to two coats im guessing? and do i need to follow up with a protective layer or will just that do the trick?

__________________
njnewbe is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 02:04 AM   #5
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
DrumJunkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Here in the holler....
Posts: 4,823
Liked 1616 Times on 944 Posts
Likes Given: 1894

Default

Duracoat gets harder over time. It's useable after 24-48 hours but will still cure for weeks after applying. It wont need a top coat.

__________________

The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.
Thomas Jefferson

DrumJunkie is offline  
2
People Like This 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 12
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Duracoat is great stuff, but the website recommends using clear topcoat over certain colors (mostly the metallics). I'm not sure why but I did it anyway. I agree that curing time is critical. I would leave all parts alone for a few weeks. Here's my G20 in Duracoat Gold after clearcoating and curing for 2 weeks. As to the slide, I sent it to Glockstore for Titanium Nitride coating. I wanted something with a little higher Rockwell number on my slide. The mag buttplates are gold aluminum available from Glockstore and they make magazine insertion a sublime experience. I'll post pics when the slide and gold extended magazine release arrive- probably in 2-3 weeks.

gg.jpg  
__________________

Last edited by floydrharper; 07-11-2013 at 02:07 PM.
floydrharper is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 02:01 PM   #7
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 12
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Of course I meant gold extended slide release.

__________________
floydrharper is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 11:17 AM   #8
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Va. mnts
Posts: 210
Liked 32 Times on 27 Posts
Likes Given: 16

Default

Painting plastic........

In auto body world(lots of plastic parts),theres an old,old saying.......

"If it's a floater,use a promoter".

It's a reference to adhesion promoter.In practice,you cut a sliver of plastic from part and throw it in a glass of water.If it floats......well,you get the idea.

Yes,I know there's "new" paint technology where the promoter is in the paint.But you may be using a color or type of paint that dosen't have it......look or ask about it at your auto/body pro shop.

__________________
Intheshop is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 02:20 PM   #9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 12
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I would certainly agree with the "promoter" or "primer" comments. However, these 2-part ceramic coatings seem to stick very well without such prep. Their use on the polymer frame wouldn't make sense unless they stick more aggressively than the ceramic coating, and I don't think that they do. My slide is being PVD coated with Titanium Nitride and I don't think that priming is an option there, as I think it must be applied to bare metal.



__________________
floydrharper is offline  
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Firearms Forum Replies Last Post
A2 rifle stock or Collasible stock? BCMjUnKiE AR-15 Discussion 17 04-01-2012 01:48 AM
Magpul ACS Stock/General Stock Help Anch368 AR-15 Discussion 5 10-19-2011 09:38 PM
knoxx stock vs kicklite recoil reducing stock (mossberg 500) PowerViolence General Shotgun Discussion 3 07-24-2011 04:43 AM
winchester mod 54 stock (diy) new stock marlas1too DIY Projects 3 05-08-2010 04:07 AM
Flame Coloring Question? mthom1957 Gunsmithing Forum 4 03-03-2009 09:55 AM