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Old 04-09-2013, 03:22 AM   #11
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Hey Coater so what is your take on using duracoat on the inside of a fresh machined 80% fc pocket. I noticed on a friends that after only a dry fire or two it dimples and mushrooms your aluminum (don't say then don't dry fire). The rest is anodized so the pin holes ad the pocket are the only naked spot. Is duracoat hard enough to help keep that from happeing? Or better off just getting it reanodied if I can?

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Old 04-09-2013, 01:56 PM   #12
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Can you clarify what a 80% fc pocket is? To be honest I think I know what you are talking about, but I want to make sure.

Generally I do not DuraCoat anything one cannot see once a firearm is assembled unless:

- the client specifically asks
- the inside finish needs to be redone because its in poor condition (or doesn't have one)

If I do DuraCoat internal items (and things with moving parts) I lay just enough thin coats to color it, but don't bother with a thicker protective coat due to tolerances. (The inside of an AR lower receiver would be a good example).

Allowed to cure properly, the thin coat will be fine, generally the internals of a firearm don't see a lot of traffic.

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Old 04-09-2013, 02:13 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DuraCoater View Post
Can you clarify what a 80% fc pocket is? To be honest I think I know what you are talking about, but I want to make sure.

Generally I do not DuraCoat anything one cannot see once a firearm is assembled unless:

- the client specifically asks
- the inside finish needs to be redone because its in poor condition (or doesn't have one)

If I do DuraCoat internal items (and things with moving parts) I lay just enough thin coats to color it, but don't bother with a thicker protective coat due to tolerances. (The inside of an AR lower receiver would be a good example).

Allowed to cure properly, the thin coat will be fine, generally the internals of a firearm don't see a lot of traffic.
I believe he is talking about a 80% finished fire control pocket on a AR15 lower . Its aluminum I would personally have it anodized ,
I have baked on enamels that have held up great even with holster wear and they arent near as hard as the duracoat and ceracoat , and I agree with Duracoater prep is everything , if you fail to prep it properly you might as well throw your money in the trash . That goes for every kind of finish out there including bluing and anodizing
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:26 PM   #14
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Yes the finished pocket on an 80% lower. I want to do one and I don't want my hammer pinging up the bare aluminum. I just want something to protect it inside and eliminate the little bit of naked aluminum showing at the pin holes. The next thing is if I try engraving mine, what to finish it with then... guess I could duracoat over the hole thing then. I worked in a body shop for a few years so I understand the prepping thing, not that I won't screw it up. Thanks for the input. Ill order some duracoat sample kit to try on this one.

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Old 04-09-2013, 03:05 PM   #15
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Yes the finished pocket on an 80% lower. I want to do one and I don't want my hammer pinging up the bare aluminum. I just want something to protect it inside and eliminate the little bit of naked aluminum showing at the pin holes. The next thing is if I try engraving mine, what to finish it with then... guess I could duracoat over the hole thing then. I worked in a body shop for a few years so I understand the prepping thing, not that I won't screw it up. Thanks for the input. Ill order some duracoat sample kit to try on this one.
So long as you have a BCG in there the hammer is not going to hit the lower
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:22 PM   #16
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That spot is a tough one. Nothing is going to be 100% resistance, especially if the trigger is allowed to go when an upper is not attached or ammo loaded.

Edit: Someone beat me to it! haha

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So long as you have a BCG in there the hammer is not going to hit the lower
You smash metal on metal enough and any finish is going to wear out. With that said, a thick spot of DuraCoat right there when the hammer can make contact with the receiver should hold out a long time if allowed to cure properly.

I would do a very light coat around and in any pin holes due to tolerances being tight.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:48 PM   #17
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Ok Coater and Havoc, I appreciate the info. It had just been assembled and we were testing basic functions. I figured it didn't hit with a bcg in the way but just in case. Plus I do notice the pins being a little sloppy so I figure it would be nice to take up a little of that and blend the silver out. Ill probably still put locking pins in mine but that's me. Thanks again! So how tough would it be to anodize the whole thing now? To a class ii ish spec, the process has me more interested than anything.

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Old 04-09-2013, 04:15 PM   #18
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Ok Coater and Havoc, I appreciate the info. It had just been assembled and we were testing basic functions. I figured it didn't hit with a bcg in the way but just in case. Plus I do notice the pins being a little sloppy so I figure it would be nice to take up a little of that and blend the silver out. Ill probably still put locking pins in mine but that's me. Thanks again! So how tough would it be to anodize the whole thing now? To a class ii ish spec, the process has me more interested than anything.
There are places that will do it , however factory type coating is a hard anodizing process which is different than standard anodizing . Standard anodizing will be cheaper but not as abrasive resistant and if wanted you could have it done in any color or finish .
US Anodizing does them I believe its $50 -$90 depending on what you want done with Hard anodized process.

http://www.usanodizing.com/pricing.htm
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:40 PM   #19
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Ok last question, say I just wanted to anodize this myself, can I go over the existing? Or does it need blasted off?

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Old 04-09-2013, 07:49 PM   #20
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Ok last question, say I just wanted to anodize this myself, can I go over the existing? Or does it need blasted off?
Thats a question I cant answer . I think they can go over the hard ano but its alot thicker than normal anodizing , Im not sure it would come out even and look right so I will leave that answer to the Pros
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