cerakote vs kg gunkote
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:08 AM   #1
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Default cerakote vs kg gunkote

Which coating is best as far as durability, color choice, and application difficulty. I've read and they sound similar just wanting other opinions. I also don't have a blasting cabinet at the moment and I have heard of some people getting good results with just a good paint stripper. If the blasting is absolutely necessary does anyone know of any cheap ones.

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Old 03-25-2013, 05:18 AM   #2
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Duracoat is the easiest to apply that i have seen, they also have plenty of colors to choose from

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Old 03-25-2013, 05:28 AM   #3
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Is duracoat as durable a cerakote or gunkote? I don't want to have to re-do it every few months.

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Old 03-25-2013, 05:30 AM   #4
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I don't have enough experience with them to give an opinion, hopefully duracoater will stop by to answer your questions

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Old 03-25-2013, 06:34 AM   #5
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I've done a few guns in duracoat. It goes on nice but it really isn't that durable. My holster has rubbed it off. Going to try Cerakote and see if it is better.

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Old 03-27-2013, 12:20 AM   #6
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To get the best results out of any of the coatings out there prep work is going to be key.

My favorite is Norrels moly resin. I have it on a few guns and I tried different levels of prep to see how they hold up. One 1911 was a ground up build. I paid to have it blasted, then home parkerized it and then spraye don and baked the Norrels on. It is holding up exceptionally well.

A Springfield 1911 that was already parkerized but with some wear, was just completely degreased and had teh Norrels sprayed and baked on. It is holding up well except where the parkerizing was already worn.

A Marlin 336 tath was blued but worn was simply degreased, and the surface was roughed up with sand paper before apppying the Norrels and baking it. It is holding up ok, but does not seem as durable as the other two.

All of these products are similar in some ways. Blasting and parkerizing gives the finish a better bond to the metal. A lot of people make the mistake of not taking time in prep work, then they get disappointed with results. Also when using Duracoat in its air dried form a lot of folks don't realize that it takes about 3 weeks for it to really harden. They get impatient and go out and shoot it as soon as it is dried. Also that base that it is applied to is very important. All of the coatingw will wear under repeated friction. That can't be helped. Teh nice thing about Duracoat is that it can be reapplied and is fairly inexpensive and easy for home hobby gunsmith to touch up.

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Old 04-01-2013, 10:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd3282 View Post
I've done a few guns in duracoat. It goes on nice but it really isn't that durable. My holster has rubbed it off. Going to try Cerakote and see if it is better.
Then you did not prep your items properly.

I know that is not what people want to hear, but is is the truth. If a holster "wore" your DuraCoat finish off then something happened user end.

How do I know? none of my finishes done in DuraCoat have worn off one bit.

No one wants to admit fault in prep and always blame the product, which creates a crapton of misinformation.

DuraCoat, CereKote, and GunKote all have their pros and cons, but they ALL suck if prep work is done improperly.

Now I will say this, DuraCoat is probably the least newbie friendly of the three when it comes to bad prep work and will be the least forgiving. But the other ones require ovens to cure and have a limited color selection.

But a properly DuraCoated item will leave you with a armor like finish.

Throw any of the three onto the ground and abuse them then all three will have finishes that fail. None of them are indestructable.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:23 AM   #8
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They're paint.

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Old 04-02-2013, 02:01 AM   #9
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They're paint.
Kind of. But a different class of paint than your average Krylon or Rustoleum. They are more of a collored epoxy resin that is suspended in a phenol solution. It gets a much harder surface finish than an enamel or laquer. Even a harder finish than parkerizing by itself. It does need to be applied to a properly prepared surface though to give maximum benefit.

I've used paint and I've used some of these coatings. There really is a very significant differnce in how they wear, and how they protect metal. Any gun finish will wear with use over time though.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:16 PM   #10
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Not to mention being resistant or immune to all of the cleaning solutions that come in contact with firearms.

Go rub some Hoppes #9 on some rattle can Walmart paint and let me know how that turns out if you don't wipe off every last drop in a fast amount of time.

With that said, I am not oppose to things like Krylon on say, bolt action stocks, because you never really clean those with strong chemicals.

So the downside there is lack of color selection.

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