Originally Posted by ccr
Duracoat and Cerakote are both good DIY coatings. Duracoat is a two part Epoxy paint.
THe key to any good refinishing is in the prep work done to the metal . First off the current finish needs to be completely removed and then you can remove any dings or blems in the metal. Being that you said you take this Rem 870 into harsh weather conditions I would suggest that the 870 be parkerized before applying any coating. Parkerize will give you a additional layer of rust and corrosion protection. Then you can apply the Duracoat
If you have any questions please feel free to ask
One thing I want to expand on. Sometimes removing the old type of finish actually harms adhesion than promotes it.
DuraCoat especially loves it some parkerized or anodized surfaces because they are rough and offer lots of bite. In a professional setup most people who apply DuraCoat will actually have parkerizing as part of the process.
Its not absolutely required, but it makes adhesion less likely to fail on a "oops" moment with bare metal that has been prepped.
Now lets say you have an old coat of DuraCoat you want to respray (or even change color) - as long as the old coating is not very thick, it is ideal to simply "scotch pad" the old DuraCoat for the new Duracoat, instead of completely stripped it.
With that said, knowing what is acceptable to recover without stripping comes with experience. So when in doubt, strip it - it is your fail safe.
Also, a lot of the complaints on DuraCoat are with thickness. Some people have no learned to be slow and patient with multiple passes, building up millimeter by millimeter.
You see these guys make 2 passes and coat the entire item. There are always exceptions to the rule, but this generally means it is being laid on too thick. For some areas this is no big deal, for others it just causes a headache with tolerances until it "wears" down a bit.