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Old 04-05-2014, 04:24 AM   #11
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Go to Walmart and pick up a couple cans of the camo spray paint. Alternate stripes with blotches. I did that with my treestand and you can just barely see it at 100 yards.
How would that stuff hold up on a barrel? Would the heat cause it to flake off?
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:05 PM   #12
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How would that stuff hold up on a barrel? Would the heat cause it to flake off?
It very well could cook it a bit, perhaps flake it, might bond it better.
Probably won't affect the overall quality of your paint job.

Heavy use will do more to finish it a short order than anything.
Dragging it through the sand and gravel, tossing it up on the river bank, jumping from tree to tree is going to be rough on it.

I always figured the beauty of the paint can is cheap to do, cheap to redo. .

I am still on the fence. . I don't do much jumping from tree to tree.
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:03 AM   #13
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How would that stuff hold up on a barrel? Would the heat cause it to flake off?
OK use high heat spray paint
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:10 AM   #14
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first of after many years of doing vehicle paint jobs, one fact has remained about painting anything, that the prep work is the most important step in doing any paint work, regardless of what you are painting. wood, metal or plastic, it doesn't matter. each just needs different prep before painting.

do crappy prep work and expect a crappy finish and plan on it coming off very soon.

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Old 04-06-2014, 02:11 AM   #15
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Alright, I think i'm gonna do it to my rifle soon. I love the looks of a completely painted rifle, scope and all. Would it be okay to paint the bolt as well? Also, if I did eventually want to take the paint off, how hard would that be? Axxe, do you have any tips on prepping a Marlin XL7? I know you've done a few of those.

Franklin

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Old 04-06-2014, 02:59 AM   #16
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Alright, I think i'm gonna do it to my rifle soon. I love the looks of a completely painted rifle, scope and all. Would it be okay to paint the bolt as well? Also, if I did eventually want to take the paint off, how hard would that be? Axxe, do you have any tips on prepping a Marlin XL7? I know you've done a few of those.

Franklin
first step is good washing with warm soapy water, using something like Dawn. inside and outside, with a good scrub brush to clean all the nooks and crannys. next i like to use a red 3M ScotchBrite, available at most any auto parts stores that sell paint supplies, along with a brake cleaner. this does two things, it helps rough up the surface for paint and helps remove any residual oils that may be there. again follow with another warm soapy wash and dry very well. next is a final wipe-down with alcohol to remove any oils remaining from handling. next step is to apply a couple of very light coats of adhesion promoter. this usually available at most parts stores as well. i use Bulldog brand personally. let dry very well before applying any paint. at least 20-45 minutes depending on the temperature. personally i don't paint anything unless the temperature is at least 60 degrees or more. now i use the Krylon Ultra Flat Camo paints for mine. first rule is that more and lighter coats are much better than a few thicker coats. get a base coat down first of the desired color wanted for the pattern you are trying to get. once you have the base coat done, then randomly use other colors to get the desired results. now i make my own pattern stencils and natural plants to get my camo patterns. there are no hard or set rules here. let your imagination work or look at other pictures of camo jobs to find something that appeals to you. another thing is, you can't screw up a camo paintjob! it just provides a new base to work off if it is screwed up! enjoy!
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:52 AM   #17
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I don't understand why people go through all the trouble of camouflaging the gun and don't camouflage the scope. Why not do ALL the major parts and make the camouflage really work?

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Old 04-07-2014, 03:56 AM   #18
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I don't understand why people go through all the trouble of camouflaging the gun and don't camouflage the scope. Why not do ALL the major parts and make the camouflage really work?
you can do it any way that suits you. it's about personal preference. myself, i don't hunt, and my doing just the stock is more of a cosmetic covering of the black stocks which hate the looks of. i like the looks of the camo much better. several of mine are going to be replaced with walnut or laminated stocks at some point, but the camo looks bettr until i get to that point.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:40 PM   #19
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We agree with axxe55 prep is everything when we dip our last coat is cerekote clear for protection ! hydrographics is what comes on most camp guns from the factory depending on what camp pattern you'd like you can also get a pattern done in cerekote. For something like a stoke the DIY kits aren't half bad and may work out well for you there are a lot of factors when dipping though its not quite as easy as youtube makes it look. If you were looking to get the barrel done I'd def look into getting it sent off and done by someone. This is something that we do.https://www.va-firearms.com/Media.php check out our gallery for some pics of some work we have done

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