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Ram Rod 10-01-2009 10:58 PM

Boyd's laminated stock unfinished
Anyone here ever finished one of the Boyds stocks like the Blaster or Barracuda styles for 10/22? I bought a Bumble Bee color Barracuda the other day off EBay unfinished. Any recommendations? Thanks.

cpttango30 10-02-2009 03:31 PM

Lots and lost of arm strength.

The one I have seen are all rather rough.

jeepcreep927 10-02-2009 05:45 PM

I have finished two of the laminates from Boyd's. I gotta go with Tango's answer. They require more than "final sanding". Both of mine had HEAVY machine marks and a lot of the clean up required starting with a file and working from there.

The inletting is pretty good though, just the finish on the exterior is pretty rough.

Ram Rod 10-02-2009 10:25 PM

I'm more than willing to work with it. I just want to go about it the right way. Oil, or no oil? Sand, sand, sand, and when I'm done....sand some more. Cool. Filling in the pores...wet sand, or dry, or both? Sandpaper, or steel wool, or both? Wax with automotive paste? Or should I sand until I don't need anything more? I want a nice luster and blend. Semi-glossy I reckon. Solid and shiny. Not something you could dig a fingernail into when it's done, or melts in the sun.

jeepcreep927 10-04-2009 12:48 PM

The laminted stocks are a PITA to sand, especially around the rounded areas like the tip of the forend and any countoured areas like around the pistol grip. I find that dry sanding with varying grits up to 280 or more and lightly sanding the open grained areas smooths them out pretty well. It's basically akin to sanding the raw edge on plywood, though not quite as bad. Then I wipe the entire stock down with a damp (not soaking wet) rag to raise the fibers a bit, then lightly sand again to get the "hairs" off with whatever you choose for a final grit paper, repeat as necessary.

Filling the pores is another headache since with the colored laminates, your sanding dust turns into a bleche color as the different colors of dust mix. Sanding wet finish and packing the pores with the "slurry", I hate that word, doesn't work so well. I tried tru-oil on my brothers Blaster, and the laminate soaked up every drop of an 8 ounce bottle and never filled in the pores. The finish needs to be fairly heavy since essentially the pores are being filled with it, versus sanding dust.

I finished both of mine with Minwax SPAR urethane (aerosol). Never thought poyeurethane would be a good stock finish, but the spar works great. The first coat goes on heavy in order to fill the pores, don't worry yet about runs. You'll notice the end grain soaks it up really fast, even worse than walnut or other solid wood end grain. I just keep spraying the stock, sanding out any runs in between coats, until the sheen is uniform and the open pores are filled. I avoided the steel wool all together.

I used satin, but the spar eurethane comes in matte and gloss as well. Wipe on finish has not worked very well for me on laminates since they really can't be sanded as smooth as a solid wood stock.

Good luck.

Ram Rod 10-04-2009 01:46 PM

Thanks for the responses. I should have the stock by Tuesday this week. I should have had it before now, but there were issues yet unresolved. I've had input from another forum as well, and I've been searching quite a bit. I may be sanding with a finer grit than 280 or so, but I think you gave an excellent description of the damp rag treatment to raise the fibers between sandings. I'll be using this method. I have run across a product due to one response on penetrating oils, and it's rather interesting. I would like your thoughts on this as well.

jeepcreep927 10-04-2009 02:14 PM

Looks to tung oil and eurethane? Pure pung oil is SUPER thin and will take forever to build up enough to smooth out and fill in the laminate. I used it on a set of grips I made from Brazilian walnut. The wood is very hard, and super dense. Even that stuff took a whole bottle, 8 ounces I think, to build up any kind of sheen. I have never used the tung oil/ eurethane so it may be thicker and build up faster.

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