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Old 11-18-2012, 03:54 AM   #11
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I own a Turner sawmill. Manual, bandsaw, 24 hp Honda. VERY well made and priced low compared to other brands. To date I have sawed close to 25k bf. It's easy on blades, per it's design. No special parts, was designed to be able to repair it by going to a NAPA parts store.

Also I included a web site you should bookmark and keep if you do get yourself a saw.

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/sawdry.pl

http://www.turnermills.com/index.html

Good luck.

Jimmy
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:12 PM   #12
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Tluker, the blades will be a never-ending expense. Unless you invest another buttload of money on a sharpener, you'll most likely have to send them out. Again, check Cook's. Very reasonable prices, I think. Even if you do get a sharpener, you still have to buy the blades. AND, from what I hear, it takes maintenance just to keep it from breaking blades, &/or wearing them out. Something of a touchy thing......
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:35 AM   #13
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Or there any other practical options for a saw mill besides a bandsaw? I know way back when large round saw blades were used. I'm not sure when they fell out of favor? I'm guessing those blades are much easier to maintain. I'm also guessing they aren't nearly as efficient but I'll sacrifice a little efficiency for something that won't constantly need blades.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:36 AM   #14
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They aren't cheap, efficient, or easy to maintain. I would not even know where to get one, and I have never seen a small mill that used one.

Wait, yes. Look up a swing mill. (I forget the name of the company)Not the standard way it was done, but.... Personally, I don't really like the idea, and I don't think it's much cheaper.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:11 AM   #15
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Its all about the quantity you want to produce but for mast small production, the typical chainsaw mill is pretty adequate and easy to move and maintain. Check local codes to see what they will actually allow you to build with Rough Cut, NY has become pretty Anal about required dried and finished wood for anything with a floor in it.

Lawn and hedgerow trees are often taboo for mills, too many nails and one screw can destroy an expensive blade in less than a second. Make sure you get a descent Metal detector before you chop the base stock. You do need a place to sticker and airdry anything you dont build with immediately otherwise you will end up with twisted picks after only a couple days. Lastly, you need to think about the waste wood in your plan, the sawdust is great bedding at $3.00 a giant garbage bag and the edge wood can be an awesome side of the road campfire wood stand at $4.00 bucks a bundle.

Green Hemlock was the standard fare for building 150 to 200 years ago, (old hemlock does make for some nasty slivers and infections). My house is 180 years old and every single original piece of the house was made of hemlock, the only dried and scraped product was the finish lumber. The 12 X 12 Beams are as tough and solid as the day they went in the house and hemlock is very tight grained and twisty.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:35 AM   #16
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Do you have more time than money?

Unless you have a lot of timber to saw, every year, I'd suggest you find someone/place that already has a portable sawmill you could rent for the time you needed it. As has been stated, you're going to need a lot of 'stickers' (because you stick them between the layers of lumber) to air dry the boards properly, otherwise you'll get some interestingly twisted boards. If you've got hardwood to mill, blade maintenance is going to be an expensive cost. Planing and trimming hardwood is more like machining than milling softwood.

Oh yeah, wet logs & lumber are lot heavier than dried lumber, wrestling it is exhausting (how's your back?) and being tired around sawmills is dangerous.

If you only need rough cut, for siding or whatnot, it might be worthwhile.
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Last edited by Vincine; 11-19-2012 at 11:48 AM.
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