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09-15-2011, 03:44 AM
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#21
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 2,315
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts
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A small saw is worth it's weight. A hatchet would be most useful for splitting wood. A saw is far lighter and better for cutting wood, falling trees, splitting a large carcass, etc. I heart my large bowie, even if a hatchet is a better choice I can't part with it.
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09-15-2011, 04:10 AM
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#22
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains,CA
Posts: 7,445
Liked 2516 Times on 1546 Posts Likes Given: 2521
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I always have a half dozen Corona 22" machetes around and I would not bug out without one. They are kept razor sharp. This is absolutely critical. Never use a machete, axe, splitting maul, hoe, pickaxe or many knives out of the box. I will carefully sharpen every tool I have to a razor edge (angles depend on the tool) before I try using it.
I believe that Rex may have been trying to use a hatchet that had not been properly sharpened, given his description. I also use a blade similar to the "corn knife" he describes and mine are scary sharp, especially when compared to how we get them from the supplier. I once filleted the skin off the back of my hand with one of our "corn knives" and didn't feel a thing, it is that sharp.
This brings up the importance of having sharpening tools. Pack a double-sided stone from any manufacturer (river rocks might work, but they won't work very well in place of a proper stone). The most important edge finishing tool is the steel. I use old machetes or knife blades as my finishing steel.
If you take an out-of-the-box machete or axe it is a dull as daytime TV. Using an unsharpened implement as a cutting tool is like beating things with a broomstick in my opinion. Don't underestimate this.
I would also have one of the several pocket knives I have at any given time. I always have a Leatherman on my belt, 24/7 (sometimes my belt is on the floor by the bed).
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09-15-2011, 04:14 AM
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#23
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains,CA
Posts: 7,445
Liked 2516 Times on 1546 Posts Likes Given: 2521
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OK, Ideally my Corona machete would have a saw-back. It does not. I might experiment with making one into a saw-back. Or I might get one that has a saw-back already. Hmm.
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09-15-2011, 04:19 AM
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#24
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cincinnati,OH
Posts: 696
Liked 179 Times on 122 Posts Likes Given: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vikingdad
I always have a half dozen Corona 22" machetes around and I would not bug out without one. They are kept razor sharp. This is absolutely critical. Never use a machete, axe, splitting maul, hoe, pickaxe or many knives out of the box. I will carefully sharpen every tool I have to a razor edge (angles depend on the tool) before I try using it.
I believe that Rex may have been trying to use a hatchet that had not been properly sharpened, given his description. I also use a blade similar to the "corn knife" he describes and mine are scary sharp, especially when compared to how we get them from the supplier. I once filleted the skin off the back of my hand with one of our "corn knives" and didn't feel a thing, it is that sharp.
This brings up the importance of having sharpening tools. Pack a double-sided stone from any manufacturer (river rocks might work, but they won't work very well in place of a proper stone). The most important edge finishing tool is the steel. I use old machetes or knife blades as my finishing steel.
If you take an out-of-the-box machete or axe it is a dull as daytime TV. Using an unsharpened implement as a cutting tool is like beating things with a broomstick in my opinion. Don't underestimate this.
I would also have one of the several pocket knives I have at any given time. I always have a Leatherman on my belt, 24/7 (sometimes my belt is on the floor by the bed).
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Vikingdad, this is spot on! Nothing is shipped from the factory sharp enough to use. files, stones and oil and the ability to properly use them are more than necessary if you are going to have blades as part of your kit.
__________________
Edmund Burke: “The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.” – 1784 speech. Taken from Founding Fathers Notes
"In a State of Nature, it is true, that a Man of superior Force may beat or rob me; but then it is true, that I am at full Liberty to defend myself, or make Reprisal by Surprize or by Cunning, or by any other way in which I may be superior to him. But in Political Society ... if I attempt to avenge myself, the whole Force of that Society is ready to complete my Ruin."
-Edmund Burke, A Vindication of Natural Society (1757), original spelling and punctuation.
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09-15-2011, 04:34 AM
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#25
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains,CA
Posts: 7,445
Liked 2516 Times on 1546 Posts Likes Given: 2521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekGreg
Vikingdad, this is spot on! Nothing is shipped from the factory sharp enough to use. files, stones and oil and the ability to properly use them are more than necessary if you are going to have blades as part of your kit.
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Actually, there are a few blades that you can buy that are reasonably sharp from the factory. They may not be as sharp as they could be, but they are usable. A smooth steel is usually needed to get the keen edge I prefer.
I may be crazy, but I seriously sharpen my hoe several times a day (just with a file, not the stone and steel). Same with my maddox or pickaxe. My workers spend a lot of time sharpening their tools and I am happy to pay them for that time. The spend less time and effort working with sharp tools in the long run. We sharpen the chainsaws every single time we gas them up, if not more often if needed. A dull cutting tool is not only a hazard it makes the work more difficult.
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