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Old 09-22-2012, 12:34 AM   #11
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[QUOTE= I want to build a walk-in vault someday that has a bookshelf or maybe a cabinet in front of it that you walk through to get inside. Ideally this would be built into the hillside or a basement wall so it is underground (I don't have a basement or a wall up against an embankment though, which makes my idea totally fantasy at this point in time). That would be totally cool![/QUOTE]

When I was a contractor I built a walk-in hidden safe for a customer who had very valuable gun and coin collections.The safe was 8'X10' and the final cost was over $30,000 in 1990.
The plans called for 8" thick heavily reinforced ,4000psi concrete walls,ceiling and floor.The jamb was 3/8" thick and wrapped the concrete and attached to the reinforcing steel inside.The door weighed 2300 lbs and had 1 1/2" thick 6" long bolts that went into sockets on all four sides.We hid the safe door with panels that were latched by solonoids controlled from the bedroom.

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Old 09-22-2012, 12:39 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Coyotenator View Post
When I was a contractor I built a walk-in hidden safe for a customer who had very valuable gun and coin collections.The safe was 8'X10' and the final cost was over $30,000 in 1990.
The plans called for 8" thick heavily reinforced ,4000psi concrete walls,ceiling and floor.The jamb was 3/8" thick and wrapped the concrete and attached to the reinforcing steel inside.The door weighed 2300 lbs and had 1 1/2" thick 6" long bolts that went into sockets on all four sides.We hid the safe door with panels that were latched by solonoids controlled from the bedroom.
Well, I already have a bank vault door. The rest I can scrap together over time. .
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:27 PM   #13
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Whatever you do, bolt it down. Having a safe that isn't secured doesn't do you much good as any would be thieves will just carry or dolly your safe out and work on getting it open on thier own time.

A friend of mine recently built a new unattached garage next to his house. When the floor was poured he poured a thicker section, 3'x3'x12". He anchored his safe down with 6" long bolts.

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Old 09-22-2012, 02:56 PM   #14
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Some great responses...many things to consider...Thanks guys. Satajet.

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Old 09-23-2012, 01:25 AM   #15
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Make false wall how you see fit. Make the wall out of something that conceals cracks, options include but not limited to, wood paneling, some type of tile or faux stone/brick, or make a decorative trim that will cover the gap. Install hinged that are on the inside of this wall. Install one of those cabinet latches that opens when you push it inwards.

I hope my crummy description works. I've got plans designed, not only to hide a safe, but to conceal an in house escape route. It looks real good in design...

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Old 09-24-2012, 02:13 PM   #16
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Make false wall how you see fit. Make the wall out of something that conceals cracks, options include but not limited to, wood paneling, some type of tile or faux stone/brick, or make a decorative trim that will cover the gap. Install hinged that are on the inside of this wall. Install one of those cabinet latches that opens when you push it inwards.

I hope my crummy description works. I've got plans designed, not only to hide a safe, but to conceal an in house escape route. It looks real good in design...
Not crummy a'tall. Every bit O brain matter belps. The cabinet style hinge is yet another idea i hadent yet considered...Im a firm believer in "measure twice-cut once"concept.. with all this great input i cant help but save time and money...which provides for either more bells n whistles or even a new wheapon on the range. Satajet.
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