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Old 06-14-2008, 12:24 AM   #11
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I understand that. I have taken a coyote with a 22lr. Why did I do this. Well It was a shot at 15' and I was helping a rancher who was losing emu eggs and chicks at an alarming rate. He still took off and ran 200 yards before dying. fifteen feet and shot with a Remington Yellow jacket.

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At 15' you didn't aim for the head? Rem Yellow Jackets are the only bullets my old Mossberg .22 will chamber reliably, but I would never use them for hunting. Velocity is low and I've found great variations in velocity from one bullet to the next. Win HP or CCI mini-mag HP is all I use. I don't suggest using a .22lr either, but at ranges of 50-75 yds with hi-vel HP ammo they will work good with proper shot placement (head shots) - I prefer the .22 mag and .223 for longer range.
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Old 06-14-2008, 07:29 AM   #12
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Bullet placement will usually win out over horsepower. Choose a caliber that will allow you to effectively place your shots well inside the kill zone at yardages you expect to shoot. If you are in brush, foothills, or mountainous terrains, range is not quite as important as prairie land.

There is no free ride, for every thing you gain, you lose something. The 'best' deer rifle has fed gun writers for decades... thing is they're all wrong... and all right. Depends on the shooter and his equipment. No amount of guns and gear will make up for a lousy shot or shooter.

Try to tailor your ammo to your purpose more than the caliber to your purpose. There are loadings in most calibers that will perform differently. From highly frangible, to FMJ, bullet design and construction should be a priority in deciding the ammo you use to for optimal terminal results.

'Yotes can be taken quite handily with a .223, however, most shooters will lose the trajectory edge at longer distances. .243's or any of the 6mm's will perform well at long yardage.

Your personal situation is twofold. First you want the animal dead as quickly and humanely as possible, secondly, you wish to salvage a marketable pelt (not one blown to heck by a strictly 'varmit' type bullet).

The lighter calibers can be devastating, but they have little in the way of bullet choice. Rimfires have traditionally been 'trappers' guns, but a cayote in the wild may be difficult to get within the range of some of the more diminuitive calibers.

Middle of the road? .223 in a quality weapon, good optics, the proper ammo and LOTS of practice.
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:01 PM   #13
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At 15' you didn't aim for the head?
Chalk that one up to be young and stupid. I was always taught you took the heart lung shot. Yes a head shoot would I am sure piled him up right there.
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:51 PM   #14
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Chalk that one up to be young and stupid. I was always taught you took the heart lung shot. Yes a head shoot would I am sure piled him up right there.
In my experience, which has been limited in coyote hunting, I would say you were EXTREMELY lucky to get within 50 yds of a coyote, much less 15 feet! If that had been me, I probably would have been too surprised to shoot. I've sat for hours with an various calls and never saw a coyote, that's not to say that they haven't seen me.
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:55 PM   #15
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Bullet placement will usually win out over horsepower. Choose a caliber that will allow you to effectively place your shots well inside the kill zone at yardages you expect to shoot. If you are in brush, foothills, or mountainous terrains, range is not quite as important as prairie land.

There is no free ride, for every thing you gain, you lose something. The 'best' deer rifle has fed gun writers for decades... thing is they're all wrong... and all right. Depends on the shooter and his equipment. No amount of guns and gear will make up for a lousy shot or shooter.

Try to tailor your ammo to your purpose more than the caliber to your purpose. There are loadings in most calibers that will perform differently. From highly frangible, to FMJ, bullet design and construction should be a priority in deciding the ammo you use to for optimal terminal results.

'Yotes can be taken quite handily with a .223, however, most shooters will lose the trajectory edge at longer distances. .243's or any of the 6mm's will perform well at long yardage.

Your personal situation is twofold. First you want the animal dead as quickly and humanely as possible, secondly, you wish to salvage a marketable pelt (not one blown to heck by a strictly 'varmit' type bullet).

The lighter calibers can be devastating, but they have little in the way of bullet choice. Rimfires have traditionally been 'trappers' guns, but a cayote in the wild may be difficult to get within the range of some of the more diminuitive calibers.

Middle of the road? .223 in a quality weapon, good optics, the proper ammo and LOTS of practice.

Very true 4rum! For years I tried hunting them with .22 mag only because I didn't own a .223. Unfortunately here in the northeast they are mostly nocturnal or only very active during the deer season when "gut-piles" are easily available food sources. The heavily wooded areas I hunt prohibit shots beyond 50-100 yds., so it gives me an opportunity to take my Marlin .22 mag out and dust it off..
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Old 06-14-2008, 11:46 PM   #16
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I have 2 that I like, 22-250 with a 50 Gr Bullet and a 243 with a 55 Gr Bullet.

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Old 06-15-2008, 12:06 AM   #17
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I need to get a good .243. I bought a Rossi "Matched Pair (20 ga./.243) but it seems after only 500 rds. the .243 barrel is shot-out. Now I have 500 .243 brass cases with no gun! If that isn't a good enough reason to buy one....

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Old 06-15-2008, 11:44 PM   #18
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You may want to contact the manufacturer about that before laying out hard earned buck$. A barrel should not wear out in 500 rounds... or 5000 if properly maintained. They may make amends if you ask. On a new firearm, I don't consider the bore lapped till at least 200 rounds have been down the tube. Just a thought.
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Old 06-16-2008, 02:57 AM   #19
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You may want to contact the manufacturer about that before laying out hard earned buck$. A barrel should not wear out in 500 rounds... or 5000 if properly maintained. They may make amends if you ask. On a new firearm, I don't consider the bore lapped till at least 200 rounds have been down the tube. Just a thought.
Thanks 4Rum - I feel the same way. Over a period of 4 days I cleaned that barrel probably 100 times with every copper dissolving cleaner I could find just to eliminate the possibility of copper fouling. Groups improved a bit, but with a scope at 75 yds. the grouping was all over an 8 x 10 piece of paper! After the first shot from a cold barrel everything goes haywire. I even relieved the wood from the receiver to the end of the handguard to eliminate contact with the barrel. I was so disgusted I put the scope on another gun and packed the Rossi away. Also the lock-up between the receiver and barrel seems to be a bit worn. I actually had the latch open after a shot. The gun is a piece of **** IMO, and I just may send it back, out of principle. I have many guns and this is the only one that ever gave me problems. It is made the same as the old H&R break action shotguns, which I also own, and have never had an issue with. That's why I bought it.
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:41 PM   #20
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RL don't feel bad I have heard of a few people having that problems with the rossie.

Might try the savage I have heard it is a very good combo gun.

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