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Old 02-13-2011, 03:00 AM   #1
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Default making own ammo

How many of you guys that do long distance shooting (800+ yards) make your own ammunition?

I've got a .308 savage and I'm considering making my own ammunition. Want to know a good charge weight to use as well as projectile weight to use for long range shooting. Also how much bullet depth do you use?



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Old 02-13-2011, 04:34 PM   #2
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I'm not sure your terminology is quite correct. Every rifle is different. 800 yards is no easy task w/ a .308. Reloading .308 for distance is not hard, getting a consistent load, well that is the trick. 700 yards is really the furthest I have shot w/ my .308 HB Howa. I use IMR 4064 powder, 168gr match bullets and CCI BR2 primers. The best way to determine OAL is to take an empty case, squeeze the neck so it holds the bullet and slowly chamber and extract it. Mark it and measure the OAL, I shorten it by .002. It only works if all your brass is the same brand/ lot and trimmed to the same length. I measure every powder charge on a beam scale. Cheap brass is not worth it as it can be inconsistent as far as volume. I normally use LC or IMI brass. I find IMI to be very consistent and I have a large amount of the same lot of surplus ammo. One reason I use 168gr bullets is I hunt w/ 165gr, so poi does not really change. Every cartridge you load needs to be as close to the prior and previous as possible to succeed.



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Old 02-13-2011, 05:26 PM   #3
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Go to load is

Laupa case

CCI BR2 primer

175gr Sierra Match King (SMK)

42gr Reloader -15

Or 43gr Hodgdon Varget

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Old 02-13-2011, 11:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpattersonnh View Post
I'm not sure your terminology is quite correct. Every rifle is different. 800 yards is no easy task w/ a .308. Reloading .308 for distance is not hard, getting a consistent load, well that is the trick. 700 yards is really the furthest I have shot w/ my .308 HB Howa. I use IMR 4064 powder, 168gr match bullets and CCI BR2 primers. The best way to determine OAL is to take an empty case, squeeze the neck so it holds the bullet and slowly chamber and extract it. Mark it and measure the OAL, I shorten it by .002. It only works if all your brass is the same brand/ lot and trimmed to the same length. I measure every powder charge on a beam scale. Cheap brass is not worth it as it can be inconsistent as far as volume. I normally use LC or IMI brass. I find IMI to be very consistent and I have a large amount of the same lot of surplus ammo. One reason I use 168gr bullets is I hunt w/ 165gr, so poi does not really change. Every cartridge you load needs to be as close to the prior and previous as possible to succeed.
I've read a few reviews about the rifle I bought and it consistently hits 1000 yards no problem once the adjustments on the optic are made. I plan on using 155 grain projectiles as I've been told they work well for competition shooting to 800 yards.
My main question would be powder choice and amount of charge. I've been told it takes a lot of fine tuning to get the powder type and amount of charge to get a tight grouping, during which you can find 1/4 the way through a type of powder that it's not working for you. This is why I'm hoping to find some people who have had experience with various powders and can give me suggestions about which ones work better than others and which ones don't.
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:17 PM   #5
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I use Varget in .308 very clean and weighs well. I have also used Bench Mark which is finer Varget so you get a more even burn and helps when weighing charges in that you can fine tune your load better.
Both are made in Australia for Hogdon, Varget is there military powder.
F.K.

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Old 02-26-2011, 12:48 AM   #6
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155gr? I'd move up to 168 or 175gr. IMR4064 is a great powder, I did state that. Shooting a ball powder, you will find it not as consistent when the temperature changes. I never give my load data out. I start by loading above minimum in 1/2 grain increments. The rounds that shoot best go to 1/4gr. Do you have a ballistics calculator an at least 3 reloading manuals? There is more to distance shooting then a recipe and a rifle. What is the deveation from 400 yards to 800 yards?? What is the bullet drop and moa ajustment? Hmmm, velosity of the bullet, bullet weight, elevation, humidity. You can get by without a chonograph, If you have something to compare the load being tested to. So, loading 168gr match gives me a good idea what a 165gr hunting bullet is doing.

I just ran a few numbers to show you.
Nosler 168gr comp match
MV:2700fps
250 yard zero
1000 yards: 369.4" drop or 35.3 moa

MV: 2650fps
250 yard zero
1000 yards: 385.8" drop or 36.8 moa.

50fps translates into a 17" variance in poi in elevation alone! That is huge when shooting for points. Jerk the trigger, get a head wind or tail wind. You won't even hit a 6 foot target. I use to shoot out to 700 yards, I'm really good w/ 400 yards now.

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Old 03-15-2011, 05:38 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=

I just ran a few numbers to show you.
Nosler 168gr comp match
MV:2700fps
250 yard zero
1000 yards: 369.4" drop or 35.3 moa

MV: 2650fps
250 yard zero
1000 yards: 385.8" drop or 36.8 moa.

50fps translates into a 17" variance in poi in elevation alone! That is huge when shooting for points. Jerk the trigger, get a head wind or tail wind. You won't even hit a 6 foot target. I use to shoot out to 700 yards, I'm really good w/ 400 yards now.[/QUOTE]

369.4 inches? that is over 30 feet in drop! Wow!



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