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-   -   Correct Zero Range? (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f48/correct-zero-range-19216/)

DougG 10-16-2009 10:08 PM

Correct Zero Range?
 
Hi:
Another newbie question. Most of my practice will be at 300 to 500 yds with limited access to longer ranges here in Seattle. 1000 yard ranges will require travel. Assuming a 20 MOA mount, at what range should I zero the scope to effectively cover 100-1000 yds?:confused:

Ram Rod 10-17-2009 02:18 PM

I guess most of this would depend on the scope you're using. I use a Springfield Armory mil-dot range estimating reticle. I can hold over on a crosshair for the .308 ballistics for 1000yds. I seldom get the chance to shoot 500yds let alone 1000yds, but I would say find a good ballistics chart, a good ballistics program (to plug your loads into on computer), find an average distance for the data given that you can easily memorize for elevation, then try it all out on that distance, then test +200yds. Then either hold low on your closer targets, or drop your elevation accordingly. Drop on the .308 becomes more drastic after 300yds, and I like to round up to even measurements that are easy to remember. With the distances I'm able to shoot mostly, my zero is 200yds, so I am almost 2" high at 100yds, and no more than 6" low at 300yds. This just simply keeps me in the kill zone for deer. You on the other hand are a more precision shooter, and it might help to make a ballistics chart to take with you or a set of target knobs for your scope. Then again, maybe you're not shooting a .308. Maybe I just assumed that.

DougG 10-17-2009 03:48 PM

Thanks. It is a 308. I'm thinking a 300 zero with the 20 moa base would be a good place to start. Wish there was a longer range less than a three hour drive to easily test out my theories.

Ram Rod 10-17-2009 04:51 PM

Then I'll also assume you are loading your own? I love reloading the .308...my favorite of the four calibers I reload for. Winchester 150gr PPs are the most consistent factory loads for me in my Savage 110FP.

inmate of Md 02-27-2010 07:17 PM

Several shooters with variable power scopes run out of adjustment. The item some suffer from is lack of spring tension at the longer ranges. Person shoots great at 1 to 300 yards and at 600 the bullet is everywhere.
When you watch the cross hairs track up and down it does not stop, but the inner spring has little tension and with each shot the cross hairs fail to return to the same position.
Have seen people nearly give up shooting when this happens. The Burris rings with the bushings help this. Heard one shooter tell how the plastic bushing allows the scope to move. While I have never seen this, I have used these rings with 50 BMG's and several other large bore rifles. None have ever slipped.
Best of luck.

inmate of Md 02-27-2010 07:18 PM

Sorry, I started typing and forgot the reason I posted,
JBM - Calculations - Trajectory

Try the JBM ballistics web site. Is free and works well. Might save you time and money.
Best of luck

Catfish 03-01-2010 11:34 PM

You should zero your rifle for the range you will be shooting. Did a quick look at the blastic calulator you refered to and it looks good at a glance. The first thing I would recomand is that you get a good scope with target knobs, ( Preferibly Leupold). For accurate results with the formula you will need to crono your ammo to find out how fast it is really traveling. If you don`t have a crono to use use book data and be prepared to do alittle more adjusting to your drop chart. Rember 1 MOA will give you 1 in. at 100 yrds., 2 in. at 200 yrds. ect. so when setting the scope rember a 1 in. adj. in the scope give you 5 in. at 500 yrds. Zero at 100 yrds. dead on. Then go to 200 yrds. and add the adjustment the drop chart gave you, and fire 1 round to see if your at the corret elevation. If not adjust scope so you are and make corrections on drop chart. Then do the same at 300 yrds., 400 yrds. ect. I work my drop charts out to the max. range I will be shooting the gun. Some go to 1,000 yrds., but most do not. Also, you only need to work out the numbers for 100 yrd. increments. For inbetween distance, like 350 yrds, just set your scope 1/2 way between the 300 and 400 yrd. setting. You will need to field ckeck your data as no chart I have ever run has been right on. The last one I did was 1/2 min. off at 600 yrds. which ain`t real bad, but that is still 3 in. at 600 yrds.

Jim50 04-06-2010 02:58 AM

Correct zero range is your answer
 
Doug,
You have been given some great information on what and how to do it. I have been doing long distance shooting for over 25 yrs.,I would suggest meeting with a qualified shooter and have him coach you for distance shooting. I am not saying that you do not know how to shoot but at ranges over 400 meters your body position and many other things will compromise your consistency in shoots. You must have a zero for each range, in other words your dope for each distance must be calibrated to your optics or sights, you may use a range finding reticule as an other member suggested he uses. The only downfall to such a reticule is they are only good for a particular trajectory which if you must match to be accurate with the system, I find it very limited and daunting of a task. Its hard enough to get a good load to match the harmonics of a barrel to deal with additional limitations for me. Any scope of 10 power will do( with good optics and coatings) just fine. Start at 100 meters or yards and simply count your clicks or MOA's to each additional distance. Just remember to right down your clicks (DOPE) for future reference,always start from 100 and move up from there. If you add 20 MOA to your scope you may need to state at 200 or 250 meters as you may not have enough travel in your reticule to adjust down to 100 then make it to 1000. Please look at reticule travel before you purchase a scope. It is not easy but I am sure you are capable if you have the will. Hope you can find some good guys close to where you live to shoot long distance with it would make it easier on you.Your welcome to shoot here in Missouri Good luck

sniper762 08-25-2010 01:10 PM

when zeroing at 100 yards, there should be very little of elevation clicks "down" left.

now checkit at 1000 yds. to see if you have enough clicks of elevation to zereo at 1000. hold over is a no no.

frank_1947 09-21-2010 08:33 PM

Leupold 45x competition is a good one for you I have 2 of them one on my 200 yard varmit competition rifle and one on my 600 yard BR and F class gun I have tried other less expensive and my groups and zero are far better with this scope the weaver 36 is close to the leupold but could see a 1/4 inch difference at 200 but it does track very well for the price if you can't afford the Leupold then weaver is next 36 straight power with these scopes you will not need 20moa but if you have already thats fine.


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