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Old 03-09-2009, 06:38 PM   #11
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Default Pistol barrell break in

Stalkingbear is dead on. I saw a test report on a $1200+ Kimber .45 that was intended for competition and it said in passing it was quite accurate after a 1000 round break in. I saw another .45 report (probably Kimber) that accuracy starts to drop after 2000 rounds. Kind of a small window. Does anyone know if cryonizing would help to extend the life?

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Old 03-09-2009, 06:57 PM   #12
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Stalkingbear is dead on. I saw a test report on a $1200+ Kimber .45 that was intended for competition and it said in passing it was quite accurate after a 1000 round break in. I saw another .45 report (probably Kimber) that accuracy starts to drop after 2000 rounds. Kind of a small window. Does anyone know if cryonizing would help to extend the life?
I've got close to 12 or 15 thousand rounds through my Kimber. I have yet to see a drop in accuracy.
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:51 PM   #13
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There's been claims that cyrogenicallye freezing extends the life but I havn't paid close enough attention to round count to see the difference. I DO KNOW cyroing a rifle barrel WILL keep it from walking as it heats up.







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Stalkingbear is dead on. I saw a test report on a $1200+ Kimber .45 that was intended for competition and it said in passing it was quite accurate after a 1000 round break in. I saw another .45 report (probably Kimber) that accuracy starts to drop after 2000 rounds. Kind of a small window. Does anyone know if cryonizing would help to extend the life?
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Old 03-09-2009, 10:49 PM   #14
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Thanks Matt. That was the only thing holding me back from picking one up although I still think that all target guns should be finished before leaving the factory. Remind me back in S&W's lousy years getting a model 42 and bleeding all over it and the box unpacking it. I let my thumb touch the muzzle. Burr so huge and dangerous they should have offered it as 'Second Line of Defense' option.

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Old 03-09-2009, 11:01 PM   #15
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Thanks Matt. That was the only thing holding me back from picking one up although I still think that all target guns should be finished before leaving the factory. Remind me back in S&W's lousy years getting a model 42 and bleeding all over it and the box unpacking it. I let my thumb touch the muzzle. Burr so huge and dangerous they should have offered it as 'Second Line of Defense' option.
The Kimbers are ready to go right out of the box as far as accuracy goes. I don't know if the mainspring needs to stretch, or if it has to do with the second generation firing pin block, but after a few hundred rounds, trigger pull smooths out and drops about a pound. IIRC, the break becomes more crisp as well.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:34 PM   #16
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can anyone explain what does cryo treating a barrel entail. i know i dont have the equipment to do that but i work in a cryo shop right now.

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Old 03-21-2009, 04:23 AM   #17
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can anyone explain what does cryo treating a barrel entail. i know i dont have the equipment to do that but i work in a cryo shop right now.
You cool it to -360* then you slowly bring the barrel up to 100* then back down to room temp. This is said to relieve stress but if your barrel is made correctly there will be little to no stress in it.

Barrels that get stress are button rifled and or flutted. Flutting will most deffinatly cause stress in a barrel you are cutting metal away from the barrel after you finish it.

I didn't break in my Remington 700 VLS barrel and she will shoot .4" 5 shot groups at 100 yards. My 308 will not shoot over .5" 5 shot 100 yard groups no matter what I do to it.
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Old 03-27-2009, 06:14 AM   #18
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We used to have similar discussions when I was an undergrad . . .

"So, hey . . . shall we clean the seeds out of it, or go ahead and smoke it with the seeds in it?"

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Old 04-15-2009, 09:24 PM   #19
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There's been claims that cyrogenicallye freezing extends the life but I havn't paid close enough attention to round count to see the difference. I DO KNOW cyroing a rifle barrel WILL keep it from walking as it heats up.
The US Army AMU, among others, has done R&D to determine whether or not a cryoed barrel does have a longer life span than a non-cryoed bore does. The data strongly suggests that it does (barrel grade steel elicites abrasion resistance that is approximately 528% higher than non-cryoed barrel steel. The results were that cryoed bores last about 4 to 5 times longer than their non-cryoed cousins.

Another major benefit of cryogenics is that there is actually an exchange of atoms at the sub-atomic level, and that means that a piece of material that has been subjected to cryogenics is that the molecular structure of the material will be identical throughout the entire piece of material. Now what does that mean? It means that the material will not have "hard" martensite molecular structures, and "softer" austenite molecular structures in the material that will cause a variation in the amount of tool flex. The material (in this case we are, of course, talking about barrel grade steels, and receiver grade steels) will be of uniform molecular structure and hardness (martensite) and the tool flex will be constant and consistent. It is then possible with tight running toolroom machines to ACTUALLY hold tolerances of 1 or 2 10,000ths of an inch throughout the entire machining process.
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:10 AM   #20
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Bolosniper is 100% correct. As to factory barrels, it's absolutely necessary to break them in for best results IF you're NOT going to handlap them. I prefer to handlap all my barrels except for those high end aftermarket rifle barrels done so at the factory. There's no way in hell I would EVER consider Tubb's final finish firelapping kit as I've had to replace 2 barrels from customers that treid it and messed them up. To me,firelapping is the lazy way to TRY to handlap barrels but don't get nowhere near the same results as you cannot feel burrs or rough spots as when hand lapping.
I agree, big difference between factory and match; and how to break-in. I think any factory barrels that need over 60 rounds for break-in will ware-out before they are broke-in. I did use Tubb's on a used .260 Ruger M77 MKII, it has very, very long lead. I think it made a little easer to clean, but other than that a waste of time and money.
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