mosin nagant vs 12 guage shotgun - Page 5
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:33 AM   #41
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I soaked my barrel and action in a PVC pipe filled with mineral spirits. The small parts I put in a tub and let soak while going over the stock with a heat gun. Worked good so far for all three of mine and I recommend it...if you find an easier way to do the wood or anyone on here has any ideas id love to hear them

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Old 12-01-2013, 03:40 AM   #42
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I soaked my barrel and action in a PVC pipe filled with mineral spirits. The small parts I put in a tub and let soak while going over the stock with a heat gun. Worked good so far for all three of mine and I recommend it...if you find an easier way to do the wood or anyone on here has any ideas id love to hear them
Do you just heat and wipe the stuff off until nothing more comes off of the wood?
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:56 AM   #43
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The issue with using a Mosin Nagant for hunting is you have to be able to fix the sights. The 91/30 was designed to be shot with the bayonet in place. That puts the 91/30 shooting a foot high with just the iron sights. I had to grind the base for the rear sight down until there was barely enough metal to hold the leaf spring in place that keeps the rear sight from flopping around. I cut the majority of the metal with an air cut off wheel. Then I used a belt sander to reshape it. If you screw it up you are out $30 for a new rear sight. Then you get to start over with the cutting and grinding. Finding a front sight so you could play with it is like finding hens teeth.

If you are ready for all that you can hunt with a 91/30. When one could buy an Enfield real cheap they made decent rifle for young, strong man. If you are strong enough to walk a couple miles through the woods you are strong enough to hunt with a 91/30.

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Old 12-01-2013, 04:03 AM   #44
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For the bore, if it looks "dark earth", start with some hot water. I stand the rifle muzzle down, place a gallon container up high, hook it up with an automotive siphon tube through the receiver, prime it and leave running. This flushes out the possible potassium salt deposits and some of the rough debris. Then patch-brush-patch-brush till the bore (hopefully) looks reflective. Note if any pitting or irregularities become visible.

For the rest, just wipe off the cosmoline on sight. Don't overscrub the outside, the rifle is a senior citizen. The traces of cosmoline won't kill your gun, she is not an Olympic bullseye princess.

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Old 12-01-2013, 04:06 AM   #45
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The issue with using a Mosin Nagant for hunting is you have to be able to fix the sights. The 91/30 was designed to be shot with the bayonet in place. That puts the 91/30 shooting a foot high with just the iron sights. I had to grind the base for the rear sight down until there was barely enough metal to hold the leaf spring in place that keeps the rear sight in place. I cut the majority of the metal with an air cut off wheel. Then I used a belt sander to reshape it. If you screw it up you are out $30 for a new rear sight. Then you get to start over with the cutting and grinding. Finding a front sight so you could play with it is like finding hens teeth.

If you are ready for all that you can hunt with a 91/30. When one could buy an Enfield real cheap they made decent rifle for young, strong man. If you are strong enough to walk a couple miles through the woods you are strong enough to hunt with a 91/30.
Adjustable front sights are available. http://www.smith-sights.com/

Mosins are fun to shoot, everyone should own at least one.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:23 AM   #46
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Adjustable front sights are available. http://www.smith-sights.com/

Mosins are fun to shoot, everyone should own at least one.
Smith sights has given up on his business. I ordered a accurzing kit from smith sights. After 40 days of waiting and no replies to my email I filed a dispute with pay pal. You only have 45 days to dispute a purchase with pay pal. I got my money back. He replied to my email two weeks before I disputed the purchase saying he would mail my kit that week. I never received the kit. After I disputed the purchase he sent a nasty email saying he was going to send my kit the next day. If he had replied to my email I would have waited. He said don't order anything else from him. I am good with that.

There is no way I would send my front sight to smith sights. I don't know where he is going to get a front sight to refurbish. I can't buy a front sight right now.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:26 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F4U

Do you just heat and wipe the stuff off until nothing more comes off of the wood?
Yea that's what I did. Make sure not to over heat it, I've heard it's possible to bring out the stain
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:41 AM   #48
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Smith sights has given up on his business. I ordered a accurzing kit from smith sights. After 40 days of waiting and no replies to my email I filed a dispute with pay pal. You only have 45 days to dispute a purchase with pay pal. I got my money back. He replied to my email two weeks before I disputed the purchase saying he would mail my kit that week. I never received the kit. After I disputed the purchase he sent a nasty email saying he was going to send my kit the next day. If he had replied to my email I would have waited. He said don't order anything else from him. I am good with that.

There is no way I would send my front sight to smith sights. I don't know where he is going to get a front sight to refurbish. I can't buy a front sight right now.
Did not know this. Bought a front sight from them years ago with no problem. Sorry if that is a bad link/site.
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:49 AM   #49
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I had to grind the base for the rear sight down until there was barely enough metal to hold the leaf spring in place that keeps the rear sight from flopping around. I cut the majority of the metal with an air cut off wheel. Then I used a belt sander to reshape it. If you screw it up you are out $30 for a new rear sight. Then you get to start over with the cutting and grinding. Finding a front sight so you could play with it is like finding hens teeth.
I agree it is better to work the rear sight to lower the POI. Another way to do it is filing off the bottom of the slider. It has more than enough material, given that you need to take off very little. I use a micro file, and when done some silver polish wool.
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The 91/30 was designed to be shot with the bayonet in place.
Not exactly, even though many people believe so. It is true that the early M91's were sighted in with the bayonets fixed. There was no provision to detach and carry the bayonets, no holsters to speak of (and this bayonet isn't holster friendly) As new military doctrines evolved, the Red Army shortened the rifle but left the bayonet alone, so the full assembly remained ungainly. Now more rifles were sighted in without bayonets. I own one of them, made in 1934.
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:36 AM   #50
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I agree it is better to work the rear sight to lower the POI. Another way to do it is filing off the bottom of the slider. It has more than enough material, given that you need to take off very little. I use a micro file, and when done some silver polish wool.
Not exactly, even though many people believe so. It is true that the early M91's were sighted in with the bayonets fixed. There was no provision to detach and carry the bayonets, no holsters to speak of (and this bayonet isn't holster friendly) As new military doctrines evolved, the Red Army shortened the rifle but left the bayonet alone, so the full assembly remained ungainly. Now more rifles were sighted in without bayonets. I own one of them, made in 1934.
My 91/30 is a hex receiver built in 1939. I tried to sand the adjustment slide down. That was not enough to make the gun shoot right. I used a belt sander to cut the adjustment slide down. If I had used a micro file I would still be filing away.
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