How to choose a mil-surp?
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:30 PM   #1
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Default How to choose a mil-surp?

I'm interested in buying a K-98 or Mosin Nagant at some point, but don't really know what to look for to insure I get a good rifle. I would like to get a good shooter rather than something to hang over the mantle. What do I check when examing a surplus gun? Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-27-2014, 08:53 PM   #2
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What is your budget? That would determine what types of rifles you can afford. The reason I say that is a K98k that is not a Soviet capture will cost $400.00 for well worn rifles, 500.00-600.00 and up for VG condition. There are other Military Mausers that are better deals since you want a shooter.

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Old 01-27-2014, 09:13 PM   #3
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This site has information on a wide variety of milsurp rifles. There are also some excellent buying guides.

http://www.milsurps.com/content.php

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Old 01-27-2014, 09:17 PM   #4
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There are a lot of good choices in Mausers other than the K98. That same gun was also made by Czechs and Yugos and so on. For example the Czech Mauser was made at Brno in the prewar days. After the Germans invaded Czechoslovakia, they changed the name of the town to Bruenn and continued making rifles there with German markings. Of course, the Mosins are very abundant and still low in price, which would allow you to buy several and keep the best one(s) for shooting. And ammo for the Mosin is still cheap. You can get 440 round can for under $100.

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Old 01-27-2014, 09:52 PM   #5
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Default How to choose a mil-surp?

If you want a smooth action, heavy round, rich history, accuracy and beauty, get a Mauser (in my opinion the any Czech variant is near top of the line, second only to the Swedish). Downsides: price. The lower end is around $200 for a vz24 (got mine for $165 out the door last month), refurbished M24/47 Yugo Mausers with accessories for $209 with accessories from Samco in Miami, or less for a Turkish variant, to around $600 for a German K98 in good condition. And ammo ranges from $.75 a round for FMJ surplus to $1.50 a round for some commercial soft point.
If you want ruggedness (which you can get with a Mauser too), rich history, cheap ammo, availability, and a shooter that you can drag through the brush without worrying about hurting it, I'd go with a Mosin. They're rough as nails, heavy, ammo is $.22 cents a round for surplus that's widely available, accuracy is pretty good across the board, and you can find a Soviet refurbished one for as low as $99 with accessories (at Classic Arms) and around $150-180 everywhere else with accessories. You can't go wrong with either. I have a Czech vz24 that's a true warhorse, and I have 2 Mosin Nagants. The Mauser and the Mosin are both great rifles, but I'd start out with a Mosin due to the fact that: they're cheap and readily available, ammo is cheap and plentiful (for the time being), and they're a great gateway to milsurps. Then I'd get a Mauser. Like I said, you can't go wrong with either, they're both fantastic rifles. Hope this helped some, zaitsev44.

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Old 01-27-2014, 10:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagner View Post
There are a lot of good choices in Mausers other than the K98. That same gun was also made by Czechs and Yugos and so on. For example the Czech Mauser was made at Brno in the prewar days. After the Germans invaded Czechoslovakia, they changed the name of the town to Bruenn and continued making rifles there with German markings. Of course, the Mosins are very abundant and still low in price, which would allow you to buy several and keep the best one(s) for shooting. And ammo for the Mosin is still cheap. You can get 440 round can for under $100.
This is what you need to watch out for. The Yugo's never made a 98 pattern rifle. They made a 24 pattern built on Belgian equipment. It is a different rifle and a shorter action, parts from a K98 or VZ24 will not fit a Belgian or Yugo 24, 24/47.


I did see zaitsev mention the Swede. It is the best of all the Mausers. If you can find an M96 or M38 Swede locally for $350.00, buy it. If you need specifics on a certain model of Mauser, whether Swede, German, Czech, Yugo, Persian, just ask. Many South American Mausers built by Mauser are quite nice also.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:53 AM   #7
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Argentine mausers are pretty sweet shooter. Surplus ammo may or may not be hard to find depending on where you live and new commercial isn't exactly cheap.

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Old 01-28-2014, 12:08 PM   #8
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My experience with milsurp ammo has been unsatisfactory. Milsurp ammo shoots groups that look like buckshot, not the one inch groups a good rifle is capable of shooting. I have shot both 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R milsurp ammo. A good SKS is just as accurate as a Marlin 60 with good ammo. With milsurp ammo the SKS shoots like a shotgun. I do not find that type of performance to be adequate. I did not think the 91/30 was suitable for sporting purposes until I experimented with ammo.

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Old 01-29-2014, 10:26 PM   #9
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I own both a yogo 1942 mauser an a 1938 91/30 mosin nagant. Now I'm after a Chinese sks!! Any shootable mosin or Mauser is a good investment!! I'm new to the sks but I'm sure it will meat my expectations for a military surplus weapon!

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Old 01-29-2014, 11:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billygoat View Post
I'm interested in buying a K-98 or Mosin Nagant at some point, but don't really know what to look for to insure I get a good rifle. I would like to get a good shooter rather than something to hang over the mantle. What do I check when examing a surplus gun? Thanks in advance.
consider a Mosin M91/30. It will cost a fraction, the ammo will be about a quarter a pop. The Mauser ammo will cost a buck a pop or so.

Look through the muzzle as you shine a flashlight in the opposite direction from the chamber. Angle it so it's not too bright. If the bore is dirty, run a couple of wet patches. Note the rifling, and also pitting (like chickenpox). If you see the pitting, don't buy. There are many more to choose from. Rifling must be sharp, all the way. Mirror shine is desirable but not mandatory.

If the bore passes the inspection, it is more than 50% of what you need to know.

Next, cycle it and dry fire. Note if there's rust in the chamber. The bolt action should be smooth. If it seizes on empty, it's gonna be worse when loaded. Ideally, use some snap caps. Check the bolt face and the firing pin. It should move easily. Open the mag housing. The hinge should be solid, the spring strong. Sights - front should be straight up, rear solidly mounted and the slider moving freely. Barrel rings - not a great deal but the tighter the better. Furniture - common sense, but usually it is good. That's in brief, sort of.
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