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Old 06-01-2011, 05:38 PM   #31
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thanks LUBrowning...i gave 75bucks each for my enfiends a couple years back,i have notice they are climbing in price here lately...i've always thought that prices up north are higher for everything? isn't a loaf of bread up north like 7bucks?

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Old 06-01-2011, 08:50 PM   #32
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The MK3No1 was manufactured from the early 1900's till 1945. The 2A Isaphore(black paint, square mag) is an Indian build in 7.62x51, not .308. 1960's

Bread here, decent bread is $3.69 a loaf. That is a major rip off. Flour is under 17.00 per 50lb wholesale, sells for $2.89 per 5lb in the store. Modern bread uses 1lb of flour for 2lb of bread. So it takes .34 to make a 2lb loaf. Bread in stores is 1lb, so .17 of flour, a touch of yeast, water, salt and don't forget the preservatives. About .24 cents for a 3.69 loaf of bread. Just for ingredients that is.

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Old 06-01-2011, 09:20 PM   #33
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I have a T Sniper model in close to new condition. Over the years, I have owned others and familiar somewhat with their history. These rifles if not made in the US or Canada will have more than two groove bores. The English barrels have the multiple grooved rifling The two groove is a carry over from the Springfield 03A3 days. The grooved upper stock is correct. The original scope mount is drilled and taped on the left side of the action. Very heavy as is their scope that comes with it. It seems to be quite a bit heavier that the A4 Springfield. I would guess at least 15#. These rifles were also used by the Brits for their civilian matches similar to our Camp Perry. Mine is extremely accurate, but has a strange quirk of being just ho hum at 100 to 150 yards, and beyond seem to tighten up the further out down range. If you handload, do not expect to get as many reloads as with some other rifles and ammo combinations. The action is on the springy side, and headspaces on the rim. It seems to over work the brass where you should look for case separation after about the fifth load. It occurs right at the thin part of case web, traveling around that area rather than the type like found on case neck splits. Found that it will also shoot accurately with .308 bullets as well as the correct .311/.312. The cast bullets also are good (not so god if your bore has any pitting, stick with jacketed). A few more loadings can be had if you neck size only, instead of full length sizing the cases.

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Old 06-01-2011, 09:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonM View Post
picked up this Lee-Enfield No.4 Mk1 today at a new gunshop up in milwaukee. it was a consignment sale amongst 4 or 5 non-german mausers. cost was 225$ couldnt resist since it appears to me to be un-fkd with sample that did not appear to be re-arsenaled due to the patina. but im not even close to an enfield expert. it just looked right cept for the relief cuts in the upper rear handguard.



one thing that i noticed is it isnt as smooth to cycle as the 1903 springfields or mosin 91/30s. but i really like that detachable 10 round clip heh.



its got several numbers and markings that i havent a clue about including a number under the wood handguard on the barrel that matches the one on the rear of the reciever behind the trigger



the first letter there is a "E"



the trigger is quite good very crisp pretty light with no detectable creep. its currently about as filthy as any war rifle i have ever come across. prolly been sitting in a closet for a couple of decades.

hopefully the bore is good as its too dirty to really tell.
G/day fellas,
I've just signed up and I'm from Australia and I was just surfing the forum and noticed this thread which interests me because I have a .303 Mk3. No.1 1945 SMLE with a heavy barrel which I and a mate have just finished refurbishing.
The letters on the .303 on the 1st post give an indication as to who and where it was built so with the limited ifo I've got in front of me here goes:

L in serial no. denotes Canadian manufacture

ROFM or ROM: manufacture/conversion in Maltby,UK

E:denotes RSAF ENFIELD England.

The fact that the numbers match means that it hasn't been refurbished factory wise and there should be more indicators/stamps on the rifle,probably around the knox form such as a "C" with a arrow in the middle of the "C" denoting Canadian manufacture.

Here in Australia .303's are commanding some big prices with a mint condition Sniper's rifle with the original T32 scope in unfired condition are bringing around $5000 $AU with the normal rifle bringing anything from $200 upto $900

If you use military ammo you must after using it pour boiling water down the barrel as most military ammo used cordite so the only way to remove the residue was to pour boiling water down the barrel to wash out the corrosive salt that was left over and then do your usual cleaning.
I hope some of this helps you blokes as the .303 also works best with bullet weights around 174gn - 180gn and is quite a good pig rifle and has also been used on Red and Sambar deer here in Australia,regards
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:34 PM   #35
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Thanks for your info. I wondered why presently there were so many rifles appearing with barrel that look like sewers. I bought my first one in the late 50s and a couple in the 60s that had excellent to new barrels. They made excellent sporterized woods rifles for the big game of Minnesota. Sporting ammo was very available, and milsurp cheap and pretty good qualitiy. It did smell a bit off, so perhaps cordite. They made beautiful little rifles. and there were many in Canada until their very restrictive firearms laws came into effect.
The one I had first took several large whitetail deer with a single shot each causing instant death. Our American cases for this great caliber are all undersized and lighter weight compare to the expensive Norma and the English military, so numerous reloadings are not going to happen. Shame, but appears to be rapidly obsolete with only the Hornady being somewhat more available in the military loadings with 174 grain bullets.
My pretty pristine, but fired No.4 T has a bore is like a mirror, and seem more highly polished than others I have owned. I'm not sure if I have an exception with the military scope, but it only has a single post. A few others that I have seen had a post with a horizontal cross hair? Wood has a very few handling dings that could pop out probably with steam. Just don't want to chance altering the oil finish. Blue about 97% or better. Bore is flawless.
I've had this little gem since the early 60s. Didn't realized the values went up so high, and I have not seen one in this condition unless in someones collection. This is a keeper along with an unfired A4 that I wish I could find a scope in like condition. Don't have the wooden shipping box for either one of these rifles, but it's OK because I got them both at a very reasonable prices years ago.
Thank you once more for the additional information, it is very appreciated.

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Old 06-02-2011, 12:10 AM   #36
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O.k thanks for the replies.
What I'll do now is post hopefully a breif outline as to what I did to my .303 to bring it back to almost new using what I and a mate did to it while trying to keep it as close to as original as possible plus test firing and grouping.
Firstly a before and then after pics

.303-7.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:14 AM   #37
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Sorry about the darkness of the pic but the wood was absolutely filthy and it took about 2 hours of boiling the timber in a 20 ltr drum to bring the oil and gunk out of the wood.The scum that was floating on top of the water resembled something that would've made the EXXON Valdez oil spill look rather small.
Now for the after pic

smle1.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:50 AM   #38
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Now for a brief history of this rifle.
I was looking for a .303 to do up as the SMLE's are a very big part of the Australian Army's history having being used in WW1,WW2,Korea and to a lesser degree Vietnam. The .303 was voted best battle rifle over the K98 because of it's rate of fire(10 shot mag compared to a 5 shot on the K98) and in it's original form back in the late 1800's shot a 215gn pill with sticks of ballistite as propellant.
Around the early 1900's it was decided to use a 174gn FMJ pill and then it went from there.

Now to my toy,I found this rifle for sale on a used gun site and bought and got it home and got hold of some ex military stuff to see how it shot,not real good as the last 2-3" of the barrel "seemed" to be almost gone or so I thought.

Anyway,1 thing led to another and I was pulling it apart to try and make it look respectable and so a mate of mine who had nothing to do said he'd help so I gave him the timber and barrel(I cleaned that barrel and it just kept coming out BLACK) and no sign of getting any better.
Well the mate got to work on it and after about a week he rang me to tell me he had "found" a heap of rifling.
It took about 2 days of soaking the barrel in Tetra Bore,Sweets 7.62 and God know's what else to remove what must be some of the ugliest gunk ever seen.
This poor thing hadn't seen TLC in a long time. Between that and redoing the timber the rifle came back looking like a million $$$'s.

This rifle also has the heavy barrel on it denoted with a large "H" on the knox form and the lettering on it says that this rifle was made up of parts from the Orange(NSW Aust.) and Lithgow(NSW Aust.) factories denoted with "M,A" for Lithgow and a "O or B' denoting Bathurst and Orange factories.

After deciding to use 180gn Sierra Pro Hunter pills and AR2209 equal to your H4350,IMR 4350,W760 and 45.5gns I actually got it to shoot about 1.6-2" at 100yds using the open sights which are graduated out to 2000yds(plunging/harrassment fire) over the bench.

I'll see if I can find a pic of the gunk that came out of the barrel,regards

0228110906-01.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:02 AM   #39
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Alright....Now I HAVE to have one....anyone know of any reputable places online with reasonably priced enfields preferrably no. 1 mk 3's??

$350 is about as high as I'd like to go

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Old 06-04-2011, 07:51 PM   #40
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gunbroker.com has a few on thier site...a very nice 1942 no.1 mk3 $250.00

southernohioguns had some enfields no.1 mk3's drill rifles a while back for 100bucks...the only thing was the bolt faces were welded to the bolt bodies,but everything else was good to go...i grabbed one up & bought a 30 dollar bolt from APEX,the new bolt didnt have any headspace issuse's in the drill rifle.i shot it a few times & it worked great!.i gave the rifle to my fathernlaw & now it just sits in his safe.i'm not sure if S.O.G. still has these drill rifles?might not hurt to give'em a call

sorry JonM for thread hijacking

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