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Old 10-27-2013, 09:37 PM   #31
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Thanks for the information DW and Doc. I am at a kind of a hold now, and it happens that I did some researching this weekend, and found Track of the Wolf, and that Dixie has some parts. They also have the 1807 Harper's Ferry kit I want to do next. I also found riflerestorer.com. This guy is a stock maker who has a series of how to videos on you-tube, that I have been watching. Been working on perfecting the lock inlet, but it has been so nice out, I decided to go outside and play. Took the 1842 Harpers Ferry smooth bore out to the range yesterday. I have bought lead balls from Track, but never knew they had parts. Saw that the flintlock kit at Dixie has been reduced $20. Being retired and married to a penny-pincher, I have to wait until I sell my home-made Mosin sniper, before I can buy the kit.
How much you planning on selling that home made mosin sniper for?
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:48 PM   #32
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How much you planning on selling that home made mosin sniper for?
You lookin' to buy?
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:46 AM   #33
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How much you planning on selling that home made mosin sniper for?
$500. It is a laminated stock, has a repro Russian scope and mount. It has a tight smooth, turned down bolt. It has a Timney trigger that I put on because it gave me a thumb safety, and the receiver has been glassed in and pillar bedded. This is the third Mosin that I have scoped. It is on consignment at Finn & Feather in Iowa City. The $500 pretty much covers the cost of the scope, the mount, and trigger. Thanks for asking

Don't have any pictures to post because it is not in the house
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:48 AM   #34
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Took the "epic" into the gunsmiths shop to get the tenon soldered under the barrel. Hope he does a good job for what it is going to cost. Couldn't do it any cheaper by getting the tanks and torch, and doing it myself. I have had this guy do work for me before, and have actually talked face to face. Today it was like trying to talk to a doctor. Everything detail of that I wanted done was passed on to him by his minions, so I hope it gets done right. Should only have to drill for pins, and then I will be able to start the shaping. Caught myself checking out another stick of maple, in case I have to start over again. Hope not. Looking at checkering patterns, but that is a long ways off, if done at all.

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Old 10-30-2013, 07:31 PM   #35
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Took the "epic" into the gunsmiths shop to get the tenon soldered under the barrel. Hope he does a good job for what it is going to cost. Couldn't do it any cheaper by getting the tanks and torch, and doing it myself. I have had this guy do work for me before, and have actually talked face to face. Today it was like trying to talk to a doctor. Everything detail of that I wanted done was passed on to him by his minions, so I hope it gets done right. Should only have to drill for pins, and then I will be able to start the shaping. Caught myself checking out another stick of maple, in case I have to start over again. Hope not. Looking at checkering patterns, but that is a long ways off, if done at all.
I tried checkering once myself. Long tedious process with a steep learning curve. If I need it done now I hire it out. Really just not something that I enjoyed myself. Others feel differently, so I hire them to do it!

Admittedly I like checkering metal, with the correct files this job is a joy. Guess that makes me a machinist by temperament not a woodworker.
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Old 11-03-2013, 09:16 PM   #36
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I need to inlet the trigger plate and then pin the trigger guard, and then I can take it apart and start the shaping. Had an underlug put on the bottom of the barrel, and drilled and pinned today. Want to do the trigger inlet easy, so I bought a 3/8 in forstner bit on e-bay. The trigger guard is coming from the Track of the Wolf

dscf1031.jpg  
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Old 11-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #37
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Looking good. You can see the final product peeking out. Just like the old sculpturer said chisel until you release the shape hiding inside... He sure makes it sound easy!

Love the forsner bits. Bought the big. 24 pcs set at harbor freight a couple years ago. Quickly became my goto tool for flat bottom holes. So fast its like magic. Adjust depth stop on drill press and keep punching holes till 95% of inlet pocket is done. Only way I can do a customers stock without so much time invested. That and a router pretty much do all my inletting now. Gets me to the fun part of shaping faster...

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Old 11-07-2013, 10:21 PM   #38
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I have a functioning trigger now. Tomorrow I need to make a fixture for the drill press so I can drill a straight hole from the barrel tang to the trigger plate, the first time. Trigger guard came. Is a wax cast, but still needs a final smoothing. I have learned to not use small files to do this. They leave scratches that take a long time to "disappear". 400 sand paper removes the mold marks much better. Will finish it with my Dremil tool and some jeweler's rouge The trigger guard I rec'd from the Wolf is about 95% perfect for what I wanted. No pictures this time as she remains in the ugly duck configuration until I can get some shaping done. I need some ideas about what to stain it. My maple looks like it has straight grain. Would like to stain it darker. Maybe cherry? That's a way off yet. I still have the rest of the slab and can try some different stains to see which looks best. Have some Minwax antique oil finish I think I am going to use. That's the sit-rep for now.

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Old 11-07-2013, 10:55 PM   #39
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Formsbys gel stains and a clean rag. Wipe it down with mineral spirits first and let it dry. This raises the grain and removes any surface oil. Just a light steel wool after to remove any "whiskers". Finish with spray polyurathane varnish. Satin or gloss would look good! Spray is sooooo much easier to get an even, level top coat.

Definitely try a couple stains on your extra block first. Walnut comes out as kinda black on wood dull by itself. You could get that "mahogany" red by putting on a light coat of cherry then darken with walnut. You can always make it darker by wiping on more stain. Pretty hard to make it lighter...

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Old 11-09-2013, 01:16 AM   #40
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And things were going so well. I finally did a screw up that I can't hide. The inleted slot that the trigger plate goes in, is too wide to cover with the trigger guard. Almost went straight down to the wood store to get a new slab. After taking a few breaths and looking at the situation, I decided to keep working on this one. I am going to take a trip on down to the local antique-slash-junk store and see if I can find an old silver serving spoon or something like that to fashion into a trigger guard. Started to carve the stock today, and it turns out to be easier than I thought. Used the band sander for about 90% of it, then used my carving chisels to get the rough shape going. Like the chisels better than my files and rasps. I think it is turning out better than I thought, and fits my hand well. That big old barrel makes it a little nose heavy. Tomorrow I am going to make some shaping sanders. I have a sanding belt that I want to cut up, and rubber cement to flat and round shapes to get the final shaping down before the fine sanding. The house mother will make me take this operation out of the house because of the dust. From this point on, I don't think I can do anything to screw up again unless I stain it the wrong color.

dscf1035.jpg   dscf1037.jpg  
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"This is my Mosin,
There are many like it,
And three or so are mine."


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