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Old 10-20-2013, 05:06 PM   #21
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Well, I got the lock in, and just for good measure, the hammer lines up perfectly with the nipple,(don't know how I managed that) I wish that I had thought to do this at a younger age, with better eyes, and steadier hands. Now comes the hard part, you know, when you have to cut off anything that doesn't look like a pistol. I also have to inlet a brass nose tip on the front of the barrel, to hold it on. Right now I have no idea how to proceed. Think that I will put a larger grip on it, larger than the kit grip. Need to lay out the shape now, and get myself a couple of Shureform rasps. Am toying with using the router. Need to fix up a goof. The inletting of the barrel tang is not the work of a professional. I have gaps on both side, the right being worse. Don't know whether to fix it with fiberglass bedding, or try to enlarge the slot, glue in another piece of wood, maybe even some ebony that I have laying around here somewhere. The question I have is can I inlet this wood any better, and then re-inlet the tang. Any thoughts?





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Old 10-20-2013, 11:31 PM   #22
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Well, I got the lock in, and just for good measure, the hammer lines up perfectly with the nipple,(don't know how I managed that) I wish that I had thought to do this at a younger age, with better eyes, and steadier hands. Now comes the hard part, you know, when you have to cut off anything that doesn't look like a pistol. I also have to inlet a brass nose tip on the front of the barrel, to hold it on. Right now I have no idea how to proceed. Think that I will put a larger grip on it, larger than the kit grip. Need to lay out the shape now, and get myself a couple of Shureform rasps. Am toying with using the router. Need to fix up a goof. The inletting of the barrel tang is not the work of a professional. I have gaps on both side, the right being worse. Don't know whether to fix it with fiberglass bedding, or try to enlarge the slot, glue in another piece of wood, maybe even some ebony that I have laying around here somewhere. The question I have is can I inlet this wood any better, and then re-inlet the tang. Any thoughts?
Just glass bed the tang. Much easier than trying to inlet a wood block and reinlet again.

Looking very good so far! I know that it seems like a lot of work left to do, but keep at it. The hardest part is done. Working and shaping the outside is easy by comparison.
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Old 10-22-2013, 12:03 AM   #23
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RANDOM THOUGHTS

It would be nice to think that some old gun maker spirit is here with me guiding my hands, but the old bastard that they have assigned to me seems to be very old school. Everytime I get near power tools, he stops guiding my hands, and starts to bumping my elbow. Well, maybe that will come out with the sanding. Oh, I christened it with my blood for the first time today.

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Old 10-23-2013, 04:07 PM   #24
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Worked about 8 hours straight on the project, and then hit it again early this morning. Tried to keep the noise down this morning as my significant other was sleeping, but I don't think I did because she would not speak to me when she got up. Restarted the pistol a couple of days ago. Did not care for the inletting job I did on the first tang, so I started over and just sank the inletting on the barrel deeper so I had more wood to work on. This is my second half of the slab. Guess the guy whole sold me the piece of maple thought I looked like I needed both pieces. Having no band saw, I cut a lot of holes along the general outline, and then spent a long time chiseling connections between them. Luckily I do have a belt sander, and a new belt, and got a nice shape to start with. Wish I felt more sure of myself with my carving. bought a couple of shurforms and a rasp. Would hate to screw it up now.







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Old 10-24-2013, 10:51 PM   #25
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Looking good! Just take it slow and easy. Remember measure twice cut once? Makes a lot more sense when its your gun rather that high school shop class...

I do about 90-95% of my stock shaping on a stationary belt sander with a 36-48 grit belt on it. Good tool but it can remove wood awfully fast.

Take it down some and the set it down and just look it over for a while. Extra time here actually saves you time. Hope that helps.

Have you given any thought to the stain and finish yet? I use Formbys gel stain wiped on with a clean rag. Follow up with spray polyurithane. Gloss or satin usually. Wipe the wood with mineral spirits before you start. Helps prevent dark spots.

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Old 10-25-2013, 12:25 AM   #26
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looking good so far.

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Old 10-25-2013, 05:15 AM   #27
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Looking good! Just take it slow and easy. Remember measure twice cut once? Makes a lot more sense when its your gun rather that high school shop class...

I do about 90-95% of my stock shaping on a stationary belt sander with a 36-48 grit belt on it. Good tool but it can remove wood awfully fast.

Take it down some and the set it down and just look it over for a while. Extra time here actually saves you time. Hope that helps.

Have you given any thought to the stain and finish yet? I use Formbys gel stain wiped on with a clean rag. Follow up with spray polyurithane. Gloss or satin usually. Wipe the wood with mineral spirits before you start. Helps prevent dark spots.
I have a vertical sander, you are correct, that baby will whip off some wood. You are absolutely right about putting the gun down and just walking away. Seems like it is easy for me to get obsessed with getting some part I need to get done, and then getting sloppy. Like when I know my chisel is getting dull, and I just can't be bothered with sharpening it, cause I'm on a mission.

The brass nose cap from the original kit may not get used. The barrel is drilled and tapped for two screws,(that I don't have because the original builder said "screw it", and used epoxy to hold the tip on). I did all the wood work to fit the thing on, and now I don't like the way the brass part looks. It is a poor casting, makes the barrel look canted, and doesn't have enough metal on it to file to fit.

I am playing around with the idea of cutting the stock short, sorta like a dueling pistol. I have drilled receivers, but not barrels, so I hesitate to drill. Thinking about putting a tenon on the barrel, and drilling a brass pin through, to hold it on. The problem with that is that I don't silver solder. There is a guy in Iowa City who may do this for me.

While I had nothing to do on the project, I put together the cheap kit gun I bought to practice on. Very frustrating. Had to take the lock down, and refile parts to get them to work. Some machined parts had holes drilled cock-eyed. Kit came from Spain. The other lock I'm using on the project is from an old Japanese kit, and it is a jewel.

When I get the current gun done, I want to do a flintlock pistol. Dixie has a kit for $450. I don't know that much about the way flintlocks are put together to be able to just buy a lock, stock, and barrel to make one from scratch. What should I expect to have to pay for a good kit? I paid about $150 for this kit. If the quality/cost ratio was doubled on this kit by two, it would still be crap. I don't want to buy another loser. I am looking for a kit that is not completed, needs fine handwork, but I don't want another kit that I have to re-engineer to get it together. Need to do some more surfing, I guess. Thanks for the continued advice. Here is what the revised tang in-letting looks like, and my girlfriend is coming to see me tomorrow.




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Old Bolt Actions,
One round at a time.

"This is my Mosin,
There are many like it,
And three or so are mine."


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Old 10-27-2013, 07:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I have a vertical sander, you are correct, that baby will whip off some wood. You are absolutely right about putting the gun down and just walking away. Seems like it is easy for me to get obsessed with getting some part I need to get done, and then getting sloppy. Like when I know my chisel is getting dull, and I just can't be bothered with sharpening it, cause I'm on a mission.

The brass nose cap from the original kit may not get used. The barrel is drilled and tapped for two screws,(that I don't have because the original builder said "screw it", and used epoxy to hold the tip on). I did all the wood work to fit the thing on, and now I don't like the way the brass part looks. It is a poor casting, makes the barrel look canted, and doesn't have enough metal on it to file to fit.

I am playing around with the idea of cutting the stock short, sorta like a dueling pistol. I have drilled receivers, but not barrels, so I hesitate to drill. Thinking about putting a tenon on the barrel, and drilling a brass pin through, to hold it on. The problem with that is that I don't silver solder. There is a guy in Iowa City who may do this for me.

While I had nothing to do on the project, I put together the cheap kit gun I bought to practice on. Very frustrating. Had to take the lock down, and refile parts to get them to work. Some machined parts had holes drilled cock-eyed. Kit came from Spain. The other lock I'm using on the project is from an old Japanese kit, and it is a jewel.

When I get the current gun done, I want to do a flintlock pistol. Dixie has a kit for $450. I don't know that much about the way flintlocks are put together to be able to just buy a lock, stock, and barrel to make one from scratch. What should I expect to have to pay for a good kit? I paid about $150 for this kit. If the quality/cost ratio was doubled on this kit by two, it would still be crap. I don't want to buy another loser. I am looking for a kit that is not completed, needs fine handwork, but I don't want another kit that I have to re-engineer to get it together. Need to do some more surfing, I guess. Thanks for the continued advice. Here is what the revised tang in-letting looks like, and my girlfriend is coming to see me tomorrow.
Try Dixie gun works. I know they have parts for everything under the sun when it comes to black powder. You might be able to find a better cap for resonable money. Notice I said resonable, cheap price usually equals cheap part, and now is not the time to shave pennies. Not after the amount of time you've already invested.

As far as complete kits Dixie is king, price is a good yardstick to measure quality on these type of kits. As you get more experienced the cheaper kits actually become more practical. You learn tricks to work around some of their inadaquicys. A friend of mine casts all his own brasswork to replace the kit pieces. He has been doing these kits for 10 years or so.

Just looks better and better everytime I look at it! Keep up the good work!

Yep, I use my vertical belt sander along with a set of four drums(~$20 harbor freight) in different diameters and an 8" disc grinder for almost all of my rough shaping. Switch to a triangle pad sander 200-360 grit, to remove the plow marks left over from the coarse work. Then lots of hand work with 600 and brass wool before finish. The triangle sander was a good investment at $25, again harbor freight. Saved me much more than that in handwork time.
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-- Rush Limbaugh, in a moment of unaccustomed profundity

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Old 10-27-2013, 07:28 PM   #29
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Track of the Wolf offers complete kits with options regarding parts and how much of the work you already want done. They aren't cheap. But the quality is reported to be excellent.

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Old 10-27-2013, 08:19 PM   #30
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Thanks for the information DW and Doc. I am at a kind of a hold now, and it happens that I did some researching this weekend, and found Track of the Wolf, and that Dixie has some parts. They also have the 1807 Harper's Ferry kit I want to do next. I also found riflerestorer.com. This guy is a stock maker who has a series of how to videos on you-tube, that I have been watching. Been working on perfecting the lock inlet, but it has been so nice out, I decided to go outside and play. Took the 1842 Harpers Ferry smooth bore out to the range yesterday. I have bought lead balls from Track, but never knew they had parts. Saw that the flintlock kit at Dixie has been reduced $20. Being retired and married to a penny-pincher, I have to wait until I sell my home-made Mosin sniper, before I can buy the kit.

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