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Old 03-10-2014, 09:34 PM   #31
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Actually, poplar is a pretty good hardwood, if one doesn't much care about appearances. It is extremely stiff for its weight, and does hold screws pretty well. It is not very rot-resistant, though.
I can't believe that there are no lumberyards in Dallas which don't have some mahogany in stock, which is commonly used by carpenters in houses for moldings, trim, etc. You want to find the lumberyards which have been around for a while, patronized by the old-time carpenters and builders, and not the Home Depot/Lowe's of the world.

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Old 03-10-2014, 10:05 PM   #32
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WOW, a lot of misconception on this thread. Degree in construction, woodworking classes, and a current woodworker here. I have experience with pine, oak, cherry, walnut, poplar, maple, spanish cedar, mahogany, purple heart, bloodwood, Brazilian cherry and some others.

Trees are divided into 2 groups, deciduous, (hardwoods, they have leaves), and conifers, (softwoods, they have needles). Just because it's a hardwood, doesn't mean the wood is hard. Poplar is a hardwood, (deciduous), but it's wood is very soft. Southern Yellow Pine is a conifer, but probably harder, than poplar. They use SYP for flooring.
There are woodworkers, cabinetmakers, finish carpenters and similar people in the Dallas area, I guarantee you. They need wood, and I also guarantee you there are places that cater to those guys. You could go there. What you really want, is KILN DRIED lumber. They have heated it to drive out the moisture, usually to 6-8%. That's the best, most stable wood, and ready to use tight now. A piece that could become a rifle stock shouldn't cost more that $40 or so. Also, don't go to Home Depot, or Lowes, or any other big box lumberyard for fine woodworking projects. (That's what this is) Their lumber is "kiln dried", supposedly. Yeah, right. It's crap, at least for these purposes.

BTW, all of those woods mentioned above, and probably 30-40 more species is available from more than 1 supplier, all within 50+- miles from my house. I choose to go to the furthest one, because they are by far the best. But there is one less than 5 miles from my house. In reality, other than the dent issue, I wouldn't have a problem making a stock out of pine. As long as it's a good quality pine. (Clear) I don't think it's look very nice, but that's me.

Also, FWIW, pallets can be a good source for woodworking. The wood is always of questionable quality, but you may find some useable pieces in there. I have made more than one project from pallet wood. You CANNOT say "all pallets are made from oak", or whatever. Pallets are made from leftover junk at the mill that's no good for anything else. Whatever that may be. I have seen white birch, cherry, oak, pine, fir, maple, and a lot of others in pallets. I know, because a lot of the times there's bark still on it. (It's called wane.) And a lot of the time, it was just cut into boards last week, sopping wet. To be useable for something like this, it should sit and dry for a couple years. While it does, it's going to twist and warp. You'd be surprised how much.

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Old 03-11-2014, 03:30 AM   #33
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I would tend to agree with Clr8ter, hobby woodworker here as well. I wouldn't compare myself to Norm Abram or probably even Clr8ter but I think I know enough to agree with him. As I stated early on "use pine if you must but I think you will quickly regret using cedar" or at least I said something like that. In my experience, cedar tends to have a crack factor under abuse.


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Old 03-11-2014, 02:02 PM   #34
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Mmmm, I'm not Norm Abram, either. Actually, I don't really like a lot of his methods of construction. Domestic cedar is one wood that I have almost no experience with. A lot of woods, I like the "defects inherent in them, cedar, not so much.
You know, something that's not too common, but that I think would look cool would be a maple stock. Even better if it was a figured maple.
Deg, post up some pics of stuff you've done....

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Old 03-11-2014, 11:18 PM   #35
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I have made a goodly little amount out of cedar so domestic that it came off my farm in Northern Kansas. It is a pretty wood depending on what you are building. It is a fairly lightweight wood, I fear the recoil would be intensified greatly. Its grain pattern makes it easy to split, although in something as thick as a stock it may not be an issue. The catch would be the large bored bolt hole through its center mass. You would really need to study and plan the way the grains were laid out. For pics I'd need to look and see what I still have. Most of it was built into the house we sold in Omaha and much of the other was custom built for family and friends. I have never done it for profit.


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Old 03-11-2014, 11:32 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiwall View Post
You will likely have trouble with the inletting also.
Soft wood is a poor choice. Go to the lumber yard and see if they have any hardwood.
x2

I've built several stocks. It will take dozens of hours to do good work. IMHO, it makes no sense to put that kind of work into a soft wood. Maybe a laminated soft wood would hold up but even then you're going to have to give up on checkering because there's no point checkering on soft wood if you intend to use it.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:27 PM   #37
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I know you can make a gun out of LEGOs. There's a kid who got in trouble in school for making a Star Wars blaster.

(I guess that'd really be a synthetic, huh.)

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Old 03-12-2014, 12:39 PM   #38
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Default Bring the wood.............

Maybe it's right next door, your neighbors crepe myrtle. seems to be a hard wood, and with a propane torch you can add color...............

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Old 03-12-2014, 04:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chainfire View Post
Just order a cured stock blank and go at it.
I would if it was economical, but it's simply not for the reason of labor v material cost. A blank runs about 100 dollars, but the wood from the blank costs about 15 to 20. I'll not pay 80 bucks for something I can do myself with a hand saw.

At the end of the day I'll just have to preform an experiment using pine and cedar both as stock material and just see where that gets me. If it turns out to;
- not split at the breech upon 20 shots
- not split at the forearm upon 20 shots
- not twist or warp badly after 3 weeks time
- take a varnish finish well, over a stain
- not cause undo tear-out under a rasp and chisel

then the wood passes muster. If the wood just dings up easily, then that's not a big issue as far as I'm conserned.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:56 PM   #40
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20 shots!? Are you planning on selling it or what?

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