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Old 05-12-2012, 12:51 PM   #1
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Default SKS Conversion and barrel mods

Hi guys
before I get started I want to mention all the mods are in compliance with federal and state law if you are interested in doing this congersion and barrel mod you might want to make sure it is legal in your State to do
I have an SKS that was given to me many years ago that had a folding stock
I hate that stock so I decided to look around for other tactical stocks and I found the Tapco Intrafuse stock that I really liked so I ordered one (still waiting for the stock to arrive) since I am waiting on the stock I thought I would go ahead and do the barrel mod.
The model I have has the 20.5" barrel I have shortened it to 18.5" I also removed the sight/bayonet lug and cut off the bayonet lug from the sight
I also made a water pipe muzzle break that is very easy to make.

the barrel , sight and muzzle break mod was done using basic hand tools and a dremmel tool. if you have some basic metal working skills and the tools anyone should be able to do the mods.

here is the rifle before pic note the barrel length and bayonet lug


here is the sight minus the lug

the pins have to be punched out then the bayonet lug can be hammered off.
sit the barrel on a block of hardwood and drive it to the end of the barrel once it starts moving it will be easier to knock off.
once the sight/lug is off the barrel cut off the sight dremmel cut off wheel or with a side grinder cut off wheel, band saw or whatever you have then use a small dremmel drum sander to dress it up.



I measured the barrel at 18.5" then used a tube cutter to etch a good straight deep line to use as a guide to follow with the cut off wheel
Do not use a tube cutter to completley cut through the barrel because it will put a big lip on the inside of the barrel and can possibly dammage the barrel


this is one of the best crowning tools and really cheap! I use the ball to crown the barrel set on high speed and chamfer it about 1/16" across the chamfer. the ball makes a slight concave chamfer. works really good.


cut off the tube from the lug and save it because it will be used as a bushing for the water pipe muzzle break.
I will continue this in the next post.

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Old 05-23-2012, 08:09 PM   #2
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Why would you want to shorten the muzzle ? Whats a water pipe muzzle break? I was thinking of making one but I was just gona use some bar stock and a lathe.

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Old 05-29-2012, 10:48 PM   #3
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Sorry for not getting back on until now but it has been kind of busy here lately
The shorter barrel makes the rifle easier to handle in closed in situations like room to room sweeps for home defense situation or also a short barrel makes a good brush rifle for deer hunting and while still having good accuracy to 200 yards + with a nominal drop in muzzle velocity.
I used a piece of 1/2" seamless Schedule 40 pipe to make the muzzle break
A piece of 3/4"OD 1020 CR tube with a 5/8" id will also work, ya you could use bar stock and bore out the id but it is easier if you can get tube that already has the right id then you can just drill and mill your slots and drill and tap the set screw holes.

I am going to have to make a new front sight since I have cut the barrel past the shoulder.
I did however get the new stock and have it installed which looks really good
I would upload some more pics but my wife has the camera.
I also have more mods I am going to do to the rifle for better performance and safety purposes
a new spring loaded firing pin to replace the original free floating pin to eliminate any possibility of dangerous slam fires and full auto mag dumps
I am building a magazine adapter so I can cut off the duckbills off my magazines and modifying the firing pin bolt block so I can load and unload a magazine with the bolt closed which is another good safety feature to have on the type 56 when using detachable mags. if using the original fixed 10 round mag this mod is unnecessary.
here is a drawing of the bolt mod



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Old 05-29-2012, 11:18 PM   #4
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St8line when u say cutting off the duck bill of the magazine do u mean so the magazines would essentially be like an Ak mag? If so that would be awesome!

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Old 05-30-2012, 02:48 AM   #5
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=zi82hVk-fXc
you can modify the type 56 to accept AK mags but it takes a lot of work.
installing a Marcus mag adapter and cutting the duckbills off of the tapco SKS mags is a lot less work and a lot easier.

an SKS-D or SKS-M will accept the AK mags in fact they were designed to use the AK mags, FYI.

anyone wanting instructions how to convert the type 56 to take AK mags send me a PM and i will send them to you.
I don't want to post anything that may violate the forums copyright polices or anything that will get anyone living in the peoples republic of Kalifornia in trouble
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:43 AM   #6
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Does the Marcus may adapter trick work for yugo 5966?

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Old 05-30-2012, 11:44 AM   #7
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The best way to mod the bolt for this is....
There is no need to take off more than enough to clear the lips and round off a bit.







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Old 05-30-2012, 12:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnovice09 View Post
Does the Marcus may adapter trick work for yugo 5966?
Yes the mag adapter will work on the yugo model
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountainman13 View Post
The best way to mod the bolt for this is....
There is no need to take off more than enough to clear the lips and round off a bit.
Whad kind of tool did yse to take off the rails?

kind of hard to take off a minimal amount of material if all you have is an angle grinder

you could use a die grinder or dremmel or a milling machine to get a more precision cut but I wouldn't go as far as to say one mod is better than the other, both mods serve the purpose.

not sure how the mod you suggested would coincide with this extra step of the mod
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:28 PM   #10
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Dremel tool with a sanding wheel will get the job. It's just my opinion that this way is better because you remove less material and don't heat the part as much. There is no need to remove more and compromise the integrity of the bolt. As you said though, if I had access to a milling machine that would be my main choice. Better finished product that way.

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