Rust Protection: Fluid Film vs. XF7 vs. WD-40 - Page 5
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:22 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Vikingdad View Post
I realize it is too late to add another protectant to the experiment, but have any of you used Boeshield T-9?Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication It was developed by Boeing Company to protect aircraft parts in their Seattle facility from the corrosive sea air. It is sort of waxy after it has been applied if not wiped off but it works like an easy-to-remove Cosmoline in my experience. I cover most everything in it out in my sheds and it does work. Expensive, but it does work.
That is actually a product that is up for vote in The Bunker for our next series of tests. Alas, it is not faring so well in favor of other tried and true products.

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Old 03-21-2011, 11:11 AM   #42
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This data is on their site:

Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

"Repaintability: Contain no silicones. It is recommended that surfaces treated with FLUID FILM® AS or NAS be hot water or steam detergent washed (120°F), whichever is most effective." That is, before repainting surfaces, maybe not naked metal.

Another note: I am wondering what the chemical composition of Fluid Film would be. The company, Eureka Chemical Company, would regard it as a trade secret of course, so they will not reveal it.

They do say it is highly flammable.

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Old 03-21-2011, 03:28 PM   #43
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I am thinking I will pull the knives for the last time after 90 days. That should be later than March 30th. So, probably that weekend as I get lazy... LOL

I know there were questions as to the knives and the depth of the rust, etc. I am unsure what you would like to see, but I am willing to send them out for personal inspection if anyone is interested.

Once the test is complete I will then move onto the new lube test in the same medium.

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Old 03-27-2011, 02:41 PM   #44
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Dano is a good guy and sent me a can of fluid Film and that stuff does everything they say it does. It is great stuff and I wouldn't hesitate to put it on any of my firearms.

I also found that it helps keep sharpening stones clean as well while sharpening knives. I am working on making my Cold steel machete sharp enough to slice mushy tomatoes. It is slow going but I am getting there. Fluid film is helping me get there.

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Old 03-27-2011, 04:53 PM   #45
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JD, I actually just came across another protectant that I think should be tested. I've known about it for a long time but haven't used it in years and just forgot about it.

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Old 03-28-2011, 05:19 AM   #46
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Do tell! What is it?

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Old 03-28-2011, 11:36 AM   #47
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It's a Marine rust protectant made by Pennzoil. The name escapes me at the moment but there is at least a case at my dad's house and I'm heading their shortly. It claims 2000 hours of sea water protection but I've never tested it.

How it works as a lubricant, I have no idea, never tried it as one.

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Old 03-29-2011, 05:30 AM   #48
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WD40 is not designed as a long term protectant, the name WD40 means "water displacing" and the 40 is the number of solutions that the inventor came up with before he found a successful compound. it is meant for short-term water displacement.

Lubricants and storage coatings are two different things. Or am I wrong?

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Old 03-29-2011, 06:32 AM   #49
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Kind of a funny side story, but twenty-some years ago I worked in the racing industry (as a mechanic) and one of the guys from the Penske (Roger Penske owns Pennzoil) team told me that they got empty Pennzoil containers and filled them with Redline oil to use in the race cars so that nobody could get a picture of a Penske car being filled with anything but Pennzoil.

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Old 03-30-2011, 11:37 AM   #50
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I am assuming Fluid Film be used only in specific cases, like coating the OUTSIDE of metal objects meant for LONG TERM storage.

I am assuming it should not be used for internal barrel cleaning or any metal cleaning in general. It should probably not be put inside the barrel or clips/magazines

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