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-   -   Remington Model Seven refurbishment (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/remington-model-seven-refurbishment-14735/)

quelebu 06-12-2009 08:26 PM

Remington Model Seven refurbishment
 
Appalled at the crappy inletting and general poor workmanship on the stock of my new Remington Model Seven, I've refurbished it. Much happier now, though why did I find a sheared off screw in the barrel where the front mounting screw of the iron sights should be?....this was a NEW rifle from Remington!
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vbAGoYIr4T...0/SNB11701.JPG Original forestock
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vbAGoYIr4T...0/SNB12167.JPG Fresh glass bedding
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vbAGoYIr4T...0/SNB12166.JPG Reshaped and checkered stock
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vbAGoYIr4T...0/SNB12233.JPG Finished rifle

deehugo 10-20-2009 07:38 PM

Glass bedding question
 
I saw the glass bedding you did on your Model Seven. Had a couple of questions. The stock on my Model Seven has very little wood in front of the rear action screw. Looks like yours has quite a bit of material in front of it. How did you do that, or was there plenty of wood to start with? Also wondered if you relieve the material both in front of and behind the recoil lug all the way to the bottom of the slot, or just behind all the way to the bottom?

thanks,
DH

quelebu 10-22-2009 06:42 PM

There's not a lot of wood in front of the rear action screw, perhaps the same as the screw hole diameter or a maybe little more. The bedding around the rear tang is a pretty small area to be honest and it was difficult to 'dam' the epoxy here but I managed.

I took out material all around the recoil lug (I took out the tiny metal block that Remington put in my stock behind the recoil lug - pathetic looking thing) then taped the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug (not the back) before bedding to provide enough clearance to physically separate/reassemble action and stock - about 0.01".

I also bedded the trigger guard in a second operation.

Good luck with the bedding or rather the separating afterwards!!

quelebu 10-22-2009 07:05 PM

Here is a link to a photo on my blog where you can really see the bedding detail. Other better photos of the project and description of works on the blog too in May and June of this year. This photo is right after I parted the action and stock for the first time so it's before any cleaning up of material and the stock is still being shaped. Hope it helps show how far I took the glass and how much wood I had to play with. There's a lot of debate about how far forward of the recoil lug to take the bedding...you can see what what I finally decided upon.

The barrel on the seven is pretty thin and many people say it benefits from a little upward pressure at the end of the forestock, but mine shoots fine and it's more than accurate enough for a hunting rifle. The weather here can be pretty harsh and having gone to the effort of bedding to help minimise any changeable forces exerted on the action from the wooden stock due to changes in temp/humidity etc, it seems a bit stupid to me to then have the stock exerting pressure on the barrel - as surely the amount/direction of pressure it would exert would also change with temperature/humidity?

CA357 10-22-2009 07:10 PM

Nice work. :cool:

deehugo 11-01-2009 03:09 PM

Did my Model Seven
 
Well I finally got around to glass bedding my Model Seven. Had the same problem with it as I did with my 700. I couldn't get the front action screw in without the bedding material oozing into the chamber. I tried to find the long inletting screws like Brownell's sells for the 700 but couldn't find a screw anywhere with the unusual thread of the rear action screw. I got it cleaned out ok but it's scary. Looks ok but not as clean as yours. I didn't dam up in front of the lug so it is a little uneven near the taper of the barrel. There is a void near the top on the front edge of the lug area in the bedding material. Since the action is supported ok and the force is toward the rear of the lug, do you see any need in filling this void?

quelebu 11-02-2009 08:10 AM

Personally I'd fill the little void with a SMALL amount of epoxy...be careful not to put in too much and give it a clean up after a few hours, you should be able to do it without having to reseat the action in the stock again. It can end up a little bit below the level of the surrounding bedding but definitely not higher, it will reinforce the other bedding which is probably a good thing given that on the Model Seven it's such a tiny area to begin with.

I'd also clean up the front edge of the epoxy forward of the lug (but I am a perfectionist!) - a really sharp chisel will cut through the epoxy - but take it easy, just a little at a time.

Are you going to bed the trigger guard also? Sometimes they fit nice and flat other times if the inletting is bad here also, you'll see it bend or twist fractionally as you finish tightning the action screws (and I'm talking ordinary tightening, don't crank up too tight or you'll cause damage). If you've done the action inletting already this is a relatively straight forward job and you might as well do it now whilst the gun is in pieces.

Good Luck

Any pictures?

deehugo 11-02-2009 11:37 AM

I figured you might say that. I had already filled it but I'd used all my AcraGlas. So I used JB Weld to fill the small void. I discovered another problem though. The barrel is now free floating but I didn't relieve any material at the fore end of the stock. Prior to bedding the barrel made contact with a small "bump" of wood at the front now it doesn't. I suppose the action sits slightly higher than it did originally. Do you think that's a problem? I'll try to post some photos when I'm all done. It's too ugly right now.

quelebu 11-02-2009 05:21 PM

Remington don't usually glass bed their actions and that little bump of wood is there to provide a little upwards pressure on the barrel. If you glass bed the action then usually you'd free float the barrel too - so no problem. However, as my earlier post, sometimes a rifle will benefit from a little upwards pressure at the fore-end of the stock as well (particularly thin barrels like the model seven has). Only way to know is to try some rounds through it. If you're not happy with the accuracy try pushing some shims of dense card between the barrel and the stock just at the fore-end and see if it improves things...sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. If it does, you need to trim them down so they're invisible and glue and seal them in place.

In my case I decided the accuracy was fine for a hunting rifle so left the barrel free floated (I'd removed the 'bump' before bedding). Also as I said earlier, I think using a wooden stock to push the barrel up isn't that sensible as one of the several things bedding is trying to achieve is to isolate the action from forces imparted by the wooden stock moving with temp and humidity. I guess a laminated or composite stock is a different matter but I don't like composite and have yet to try a laminated (though it's the next project).

As long as the action is well bedded I think it's only a visual thing if the barrel is a little higher in the stock than before (as long as all the parts still fit together!). Before bedding I usually wrap the barrel with some tape to the desired thickness of the "float", that way when you put action and stock together, sandwiching the wet bedding, you can tell when it's seated fully.

deehugo 11-02-2009 11:41 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Well, here is the finished product. First was a photo of the old plastic stock. I think the new wood stock is much better looking. the bedding project isn't very pretty. I'll take it to the range in a week and see how she does. Thanks for all your input!


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