painting firearms
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:39 PM   #1
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Default painting firearms

i know you can paint ar's. what about other rifles? there is an older used .22 rifle at the LGS that i was thinking i might pick it up and paint it just to have as something different. ive heard people say krylon. are you refering to the spray paint? and also would it stick pretty well to a wood stock and blued barrel? what sort of prep work do i need to do? just hand sanding? or is it more intense?

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Old 03-22-2012, 12:33 AM   #2
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With anything prep work is key. I always bead blast or sand blast at 40-50 PSI. 1) to give paint a surface to adhere to on plastic/polymer 2) Remove old finish from firearms. Then I blow off dust, spray with brake cleaner to degrease. Finally once dry I spray with Brownell's armor kote or gun kote. I've never used Krylon, but will be in the next few days as I setup another 870 turkey gun. Good luck with the project... Use youtube there are many, many videos on the subject.

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Old 03-22-2012, 12:53 AM   #3
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Here's a re-do with spray paint;

My Tango plunkungfest Westeren Auto 120

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Old 03-27-2012, 04:02 AM   #4
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Dura coat all the way

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Old 03-27-2012, 07:30 PM   #5
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Whatever you do, go slow.

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Old 03-27-2012, 10:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEAKDUDE
Dura coat all the way
I haven't used duracoat YET, but have a buddy did a couple of his guns with it and they look awesome. He says he didnt use the spray bottle that comes with it but a small hobby air brush kit he already had. Yet to see how it holds up to scratching, etc, but I'm going to use some on my 870 soon. I think OD green will look good.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:46 PM   #7
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Don't ever use Krylon paint as a primary gun finish.. It will NOT hold up and will be a P.I.T.A. to clean up when it starts to flake off on ya. I use Duracoat ...

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Old 04-11-2012, 07:39 PM   #8
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It depends on what you do with it. I took a brand new remmy 700 sps varmint and krylon'd it end to end. Base coat was coyote tan ultra flat, then hit it random with some chocolate ultra flat, the used dog fennel, (local weeds to north florida) and used UF od green to make the camo pattern. True it chips and rubs off but the more it did, the better the camo pattern. FWIW just my take on it.

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Old 04-12-2012, 12:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewulff View Post
. True it chips and rubs off but the more it did, the better the camo pattern. FWIW just my take on it.
There are several manufacturers out there making products designed specifically as firearms coatings.. Why even waste your money using an inferior product..? I used to use coat hangers as exhaust hangers years ago too before I realized that a smart quarter spent was better than a dime wasted

Point being, Duracoat and products like it are not cost prohibitive to the point of preventing you from doing the job right the first time.. A Duracoat camo kit is almost as cheap as the three or four cans of krylon and it will last "FOREVER"... !
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:20 PM   #10
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i actually have had pretty good results with the Krylon Camoflage paints, but only use them on the synthetic stocks. with many years with painting in the automotive business, the main factor is preparation not the material used. someone mentioned using a brake cleaner as a cleaner to use prior to painting, but rubbing alcohol works better, especially on plastics or synthetics, which you might not want to use brake cleaner on in the first place. also on synthetics and plastics, use a adhesion promoter before putting the paint on. these are my steps for painting, regardless of paint used.

1. clean with warm soapy water and a course brush.

2. completely dry.

3. plastics or synthetics, use fine scuff pads to prep. metal, use mild abrasive in a blast cabinet if available, if not sandpaper or course steel wool.

4. if plastic or synthetic, use rubbing alcohol to clean. if metal, use brake cleaner then alcohol to clean.

5. if plastic or synthetic, use an adhesion promoter, i like the Bulldog brand usually carried at most automotive stores. then topcoat with whatever paint you choose. remember, more lighter coats are preferable to one heavy coat of paint.

6. if metal. i like to preheat the metal. about 150-175 degrees. use an oven or a small torch, then when the metal has been warmed up apply very light coats until desired coverage is achieved.

7. final note, let it cure. i use hangers made into hooks and holders for the items being painted if possible. move them if need be to where they can sit of hang for at least 24 hours before messing with them, more if you can.

these are just my methods i have used for many years and have had good results with. i have several stocks with Krylon used on the stocks that are approaching a few years on them and are holding up very well. not peeling or flaking, but are getting some wear marks from handling, which if doing a camo paint finish, it actually gives it character.

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