My Tango plunkungfest Westeren Auto 120
 

I have not shot this puppy for 35 years. It has moved with me to 4 states, 5 cities and 9 different houses. I still have ammo from the 1970's.

Then along came Tango and his monthly plunkungfest (The one I plan on winning in January and February only because everyone else will say "Too cold, the hell wit it!!"

Here she is, dubbed 'derTangoplunkungun' just for his competition shoots.

Attachment 3356

Thought I'd try out the new gun finishing products on today's shelves. I'll use this thread to display my progress, good or bad.

The barrel rollmark reads;
Revelation - MODEL 120
WESTERN AUTO SUPPLY CO.

It's a Marlin 60 made for WASCo.

The only other marking is a hand stamped GK at 9:00 just under the rear sight attachment point. Any one know where the S/N is supposed to be? I read the early production units were not serialized.


Attachment 3354

I think the current condition of the barrel bluing is due to the quality (or lack thereof) of the original process. As you can see the interior of the gun is , well, somewhat better than the exterior.


Attachment 3355

The scope is a Weaver B6 with a Weaver .22 Tip Off dovetail pinch mount. It's outa here and I have on order a very expensive replacement. It's so expensive that the shipping charge was 70% of the cost of the new scope! I'll do a review of this fine sample of shooting optics when it gets here.

Attachment 3348

Here's my first obstacle, a broken stock. I know, get a new synthetic replacement but NO! This is a piece of my history and I would like to keep as much of the original gun that I can. (Forget about throwing out the Weaver.)

Attachment 3349

This last pic shows the crack from the trigger side. Next post will be the stock repair. I got to go dig out the gorilla glue!

Cane - none of your pic attachments work - Who made Revelation for Western Auto? I have a 1980's Numrich Catalog that cross referrences all the manufacturers and the stores that sold their guns. If you don't know who made it, let me know and I'll look it up tomorrow. I have a couple of VERY old boxes of .308 ammo that say Revelation - they must have been sold by Western Auto also.

Check and see if the photos are workin now.

It's a Marlin 60 made for WASCo.

Marlin made many of these for different names........many may disagree but I'm a fan of them....they've been making them for years with few slight changes....

Gonna take my Mod.70P(Papoose) out tomorrow. I bought it in 87' and I've put maybe 200 rds. through it since. It's a Mod.60 action, take-down, in a neat little red canvas case that floats.

'derTangoplunkungun'
 

Update on the 'derTangoplunkungun':

Stock Repair;

Like I said earlier, my first obstacle is a broken stock. I do not want a new synthetic replacement. This piece of my history will stay original, but with a canebrake twist!

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...20gun/1SR1.jpg

I used the tools and skill I possess so don't go ragin' on me for drywall screws and Gorilla glue! I'm also quite good with duct tape but will hold off using it for gunsmithing!

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...20gun/1SR2.jpg

This stock, which is older than most of our members, was lacking any water content. After all it has been drying in household humidity for 42+ years. I had to be careful as I drilled the pilot hole for the screw. The counter sink was the hardest.

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...20gun/1SR3.jpg

I selected the longest screw usable and the proper angle to maximize the strength to repair the break. My guess is the brake occurred in the weakest grain and repairing it with glue only would just lead me in finding the next weak spot. With a screw placed cross-grain, it should strengthen the whole stock. Keep in mind, we aren't firing a .700 Nitro Express rifle here!

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...20gun/1SR4.jpg

This is a look at the repair after the screw was seated and an extra drop of glue was added to the countersunk hole. (Less filler needed to smooth the stock.)

Attachment 3405

Here's another look at a different angle of the repair.

Attachment 3406

And from the top.

Attachment 3407

If any of you are familiar with Gorilla Glue You know that before applying the glue you need to wet the surface to be glued. The water is the catalyst that starts the bonding process. This process forms bubbles or foam like froth around the repair.


Attachment 3408

This is one hour after applying the glue. It is dry to the touch. I will give it 24 hours to set and get on with the finishing tomorrow.

Did you counterbore the screw hole deep enough to insert a small piece of 3/8" dowel to plug the screw hole? You can use a coping saw and cut the dowel close to the stock than sand and stain - it would be almost invisible if you match the direction of grain of the dowel with that of the stock and use an appropriate stain ( a shade or two lighter than the stock since the dowel end-grain will come out darker)

Just wasn't enough 'meat' in that area but not to worry, the 'ol canester has a surprise for you.

Film at 11:00! http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ons/cowboy.gif

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, let them at least find you handy!! Excellent suggestion, RL. Maybe if Cane found you handy...:D

Naw, I'm confident Ray isn't my type! http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ons/cowboy.gif