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Old 07-10-2013, 06:51 PM   #1
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Default My first attempt at 1911 grips!

Hey everyone, thanks to many of you on this forum and many online resources like it, I have completed the majority of the work in my first 1911 wood grips. These are made if olive wood and I have sanded then up to 1200 and plan on finishing them in the next couple of days. However, I don't know which finish works best on olive wood and am in dire need of suggestions. I have only ever stained/finished 1 project and it was years ago in High School wood shop. Please help me get these beauties finished!

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Old 07-11-2013, 12:30 AM   #2
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If I remember correctly, (it was a while since i was in construction too) staining works best with a brush in one direction. Put on a generous amount, not enough might cause variation with the finish (thin lines might appear if you over lap with more stain than you used) by the same token, don't go over bored or the project will get messy. The wood will only soak in so much of the stain (like a rag and water unless you have sham-wow ) i think the stain should soak in for 10 minutes, maybe more maybe less, i cant remember but the bottle would have directions. Anywho, after the stain soaks in enough, wipe off excess stain to prevent uneven colouring and let it dry! Hope this helps!

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Old 07-11-2013, 12:41 AM   #3
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The grips look great. I would try watco Danish oil. It works great on my knife handles. I put it on thick and take 0000 steel wool and use light strokes to work the oil in. I do this for 3 days twice daily. Then I lightly buff it off by hand with a soft cloth.

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Old 07-13-2013, 01:35 AM   #4
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I've made 1911 grips and depending on the wood I'll stain them or just seal them with something. If I was doing the ones you made I don't think I'd stain them as they grain looks real nice as is. So maybe semi gloss urethane or even better tru-oil/linseed oil then sealed with a wax. The urethane's big plus is you never have to reapply even if it's a EDC.

If you are going to stain make sure it's evenly coated and and let it soak in 10 minutes or so then wipe off the excess.

Your grips looks pretty nice

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Old 07-14-2013, 04:11 AM   #5
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i have to agree with DJ that i would seal them and let the natural wood grain stand on it's own. if staining i would go very light in color so you don't cover up the natural wood grain an overpower it.

BTW, very nice job on the grips. you did a great job!

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Old 07-14-2013, 04:16 AM   #6
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Yeah, that wood just does it for me. I'd love to see those on a blued 1911. They would look great on my Black Para LTC

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Old 07-14-2013, 04:20 AM   #7
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Yeah, that wood just does it for me. I'd love to see those on a blued 1911. They would look great on my Black Para LTC
i think he said he used olive wood to make them. i have seen furniture made from olive wood before and it has some beautiful wood grain. it's a very light colored wood with some good looking grain patterns.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:30 AM   #8
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I'll have to see about looking for some. I do have a buckeye stump here I might be able to pilfer for some light wood too Buckeye looks really nice but the stuff is just sooo hard to work with. Like gummy balsa wood Does look really nice though if you are willing to make up a few dozen new swear words..heh

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Old 07-14-2013, 04:33 AM   #9
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I'll have to see about looking for some. I do have a buckeye stump here I might be able to pilfer for some light wood too Buckeye looks really nice but the stuff is just sooo hard to work with. Like gummy balsa wood Does look really nice though if you are willing to make up a few dozen new swear words..heh
would that be swear wood?

DJ, check Ebay in the knife building supplies section. they have knife scales that they sell that are just the right size for making grips for a 1911. and many of them are already stabilized and some are not really very expensive either.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:34 AM   #10
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Great idea! thanks!!

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