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Old 07-27-2008, 06:30 PM   #21
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Okay, so what size bolt did you go with?
I have not ordered it yet, but my plan is to order up two. I am still researching who has the best deal on a bolt and head with the reliability that I am looking for. I am going with the 6.5 Creedmoor for this build. But, I plan on ordering a full .223/5.56 bolt and head to place in the MIAD grip so I can change uppers with the two quick release pins, slap in a new bolt & head and be able to change configurations in just 30 seconds.

Nice huh?

JD
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:54 PM   #22
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I was always taught that bolts and carriers were matched pairs once they were run together.

Maybe that's just an automatic fire thing or just a military thing.

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Old 07-28-2008, 12:20 AM   #23
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I was always taught that bolts and carriers were matched pairs once they were run together.

Maybe that's just an automatic fire thing or just a military thing.
You know, I have heard that, but I haven't seen any real "proof" as to the reasons why.

I intend on buying one for each caliber, and if need be, it can be modified in the shop, but I intend on posting all the results on what I did and what it cost as I go along, plus the results from the range on the initial testing, so you guys will be able to see any pluses, or serious screw ups, that I make along the way.

JD
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Old 08-01-2008, 01:15 AM   #24
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So, today the Rock River Arms National Match 2 Stage Trigger showed up in the mail. This is a bit more than your average part, but this rifle is being built to group as tightly as possible, so I ponied up the ducketts to get the good model. This one was $99 delivered. You can get a much cheaper trigger, even tune one yourself from a standard GI Style, but on this rifle I wanted to experience the fit and feel of the RRA model.


Here are the parts. As you can see, there isn’t much to the parts kit. You get one trigger, with the spring in place, you get one hammer, spring also already in place, and two pins to install.


The total install, on my stripped receiver, took about four minutes. It wasn’t that terribly difficult. The Trigger lay right in place and the pin went through with no pounding or other work needed. The only real trouble was getting the hammer to sit nicely so I could push the hammer pin through and in place. I won’t kid you; it was a bit of a struggle because that hammer spring is the real deal. I should have put the damn thing in the vice, pinned it in place and did it the right way. Instead I was stubborn and fought the thing with my hands. Let this be a lesson to you, don’t do what I did, you will end up with a blister like the one I got when the hammer pinched my thumb against the frame. Ouch!



So, here it is, in place and it works beautifully. The trigger has just the bare minimum of creep and then the trigger breaks clean. It’s really nice & I definitely think it is one hell of a good, drop in part that seems to be worth every penny. But, time will tell….

JD
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Old 08-01-2008, 05:45 PM   #25
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Strange looking hammer. Does RRA build them that way so they're lighter/quicker?

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Old 08-05-2008, 10:11 PM   #26
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Strange looking hammer. Does RRA build them that way so they're lighter/quicker?
You know, I hadn't noticed, so I had to go and recheck against my Jard drop in that's on my stock rifle. It's the same design, same shape, but the RRA is a little heavier. Then again, so is the spring to power it forward... LOL

JD
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:12 PM   #27
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So, this past weekend my YHM Forend showed up and I was happy to see it. I ordered the rifle length forend, and I was hoping it would be a little longer. Unfortunately it’s only 12.5” long. Since I will be putting a 20” barrel on this unit by the time it’s done, this will leave a few inches left over. The plus side is that I can thread the barrel and apply for a Class III Suppressor. This unit is $140 for the carbine and $160 for the rifle version.

Here are the parts that showed up on the doorstop. Its high quality aircraft aluminum and the jam nut and barrel nut appear to be steel. The whole forend is very stout, will allow free floating the barrel, and has a full 1913 rail running along the top, plus ( 3 ) additional 4” 1913 rails offset at 90 degrees at the front of the forend.



These would allow for the placement of lights or lasers or other additional equipment as the operator would see fit to install.



Here you can see it aligned with my upper. One of the key reasons that I don’t care what platform I get is because one of the tricks we will use to accurize the upper is to blueprint the front threads in direct relation to the true center of the upper receiver. This process can be done by just about any quality gunsmith and runs $60 in our shop for the two part process.



This is a close up of the barrel nut. You can see a lip around the inside of the barrel nut if you look close. On a non YHM style barrel nut, we would also true up this ridge/lip at a true 90 degrees to the bore of the barrel& action to allow for the best possible fitting together of the parts to ensure accuracy. YHM does a really good job of Quality Assurance, and we will check the 90 degrees to true of this product as well, but rarely do we have to touch up their work



Once we align the barrel with the same 90 degree to center fit, and assuming we have a quality cut chamber, the round will be chambered dead center and sent downrange with the utmost confidence and accuracy.

The end goal is to get all the single pieces aligned exactly so there is no undo influence on the round in question. Thus, we will be able to achieve an accurized AR upper.

This same process can be done by anyone with access to a quality gunsmith. Drop off your parts, have him/her/ blueprint your upper, your barrel and barrel nut, assemble as you ordinarily would.

Pretty cool huh?

JD
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Old 08-18-2008, 06:38 PM   #28
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Haven't had much activity in the last couple of weeks on this project. Mortage has a way of draining the extra money from the bank account.

I ordered up some more misc parts that should be here this week. Got the forward assist for the upper, got the mag release and an oversized mag release button coming for the lower, along with the parts for the bolt carrier release, most of them from DPMS by way of Brownell's. I don't have the totals in front of me, but the whole package, I believe, is less than $30-$35.

Having some serious trouble finding a stock to put on this unit. I wanted the Magpul Precision Rifle Stock, which I may still end up with, but I have encountered a problem. I need a 14.5" length of pull on my stock, and the Magpul is 14.5" when open as far as it can go. Now, I can get stock spacers, but I am really want to get a one piece unit, and I don't want it to be maxed out the moment I put it on the unit.

I contacted two "custom" AR makers who build their own edition of "sniper" stocks - that turned out to be a waste of time, so I won't mention either by name.

In any event, the search continues for parts. I am going to try and order the barrel up in the next couple of weeks, since there will be a lead time to get the right chamber cut... More to follow...

JD

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Old 08-18-2008, 06:59 PM   #29
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Haven't had much activity in the last couple of weeks on this project. Mortage has a way of draining the extra money from the bank account.

I ordered up some more misc parts that should be here this week. Got the forward assist for the upper, got the mag release and an oversized mag release button coming for the lower, along with the parts for the bolt carrier release, most of them from DPMS by way of Brownell's. I don't have the totals in front of me, but the whole package, I believe, is less than $30-$35.

Having some serious trouble finding a stock to put on this unit. I wanted the Magpul Precision Rifle Stock, which I may still end up with, but I have encountered a problem. I need a 14.5" length of pull on my stock, and the Magpul is 14.5" when open as far as it can go. Now, I can get stock spacers, but I am really want to get a one piece unit, and I don't want it to be maxed out the moment I put it on the unit.

I contacted two "custom" AR makers who build their own edition of "sniper" stocks - that turned out to be a waste of time, so I won't mention either by name.

In any event, the search continues for parts. I am going to try and order the barrel up in the next couple of weeks, since there will be a lead time to get the right chamber cut... More to follow...

JD
Have you seen these guys' stuff: http://www.vltor.com

I'm not sure of the specifics on their stocks, but they may be worth a look. I know their M14 stocks are 14" LOP, fully extended, but they also sell spacers.

If you're looking for a fixed stock, you might want to check with McMillan to see what they could cook up for you.
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Last edited by matt g; 08-18-2008 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:06 PM   #30
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I definitely checked them out. By now I think I have seen everything out there and might end up making my own... LOL

I like the modular abilities of the vltor stuff, I also hate the modular abilities of the vltor stuff... LOL

With the snap on, snap off pieces, it's a great product for CQB style, close quarters / field weapons. But, with the same pieces, it's just another thing that isn't "solid" on the buttstock for a precision piece like I am hoping to turn out. That is one of the big reasons why I am not going with a collapsible that could easily reach past the 14.5" I need.

I don't want anything but the most solid platform to get behind. I know that the split receiver is not going to be as accurate as a more solid platform, like a boltgun, so I want to make sure all the pieces I get can come together nicely to allow for the best accuracy possible.

I have been scouring the internet trying to find someone who could turn out a good, solid piece - but honestly I might have to make my own, or suck it up and put a standard, but adjustable, A2 buttstock on. Not really what I want to do, but it's looking like a more affordable option....

JD

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