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Old 11-03-2011, 10:01 PM   #781
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The data, statistics and information from this thread will be compiled into an FAQ article. Please be as detailed but concise as you can in your response.

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What is your criteria for cleaning your guns?

Do you clean based on rounds fired, time since last cleaning, condition of gun, etc.

How do you clean your guns?

What products do you use and what methods to thorough cleaning.
Has this info been compiled into a FAQ yet?

Let me know how you do it with out going crazy if you do
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:06 PM   #782
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However, it is a mistake to assume that the $10.00 per ounce oils lubricate any better than the cheaper ones. The differences are relatively minor.
Here I couldn't agree more.
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:39 AM   #783
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Cleaned after each firing. Break Free and Bore Snake.

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Old 11-04-2011, 02:05 PM   #784
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Originally Posted by kilogulf59 View Post
Has this info been compiled into a FAQ yet?

Let me know how you do it with out going crazy if you do
Yeah this.

IMO, something which is 1/10th as expensive which you use 10 times a year

is much better than something 10 times more costly you use once a year.

Discipline is a noun, lubrication is a verb. In essence, elbow grease is an

important lubricant, too. Field and Stream just did an article recently on this

recently which, IMO, is a must read for all gun owners.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:53 PM   #785
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I'm wondering about when the compilation will be done. Certainly you have enough feedback by now? Of course if you wait long enough, I supose you could get 1,000 replies.

Meanwhile, I'll add that I have recently started saving old cotton underwear and T-shirts for cleaning and polishing. Currently using Hoppes #9 and other regular gun cleaning products, but the smell is offensive to the wife so she wants me to clean outdoors.

What prodcuts have the least offensive smell?

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Old 11-04-2011, 03:06 PM   #786
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I clean my guns immediately after firing them, even if firing only a couple of rounds. If for some reason I can't clean them then, it's never longer than 24 hours. Peace of mind I suppose. I've used this cleaning routine for the past 30 years...

I use a brass barrel brush, stiff nylon toothbrush and Hoppes #9 and scrub over the entire gun. Occaisionally, when I've put alot of rounds through the gun, I'll use a dental pick to dig out the crud in the small nook and crannies. Totally disassemble when practical (which is most of the time).
I then blow out all parts with Gunscrubber and give all metal and polymer parts a thin coat of Breakfree CLP. Wipe them down with a clean, soft rag. I then add a drop of Breakfree to all the metal to metal contact parts (ex: slide rails, cylinder yoke, trigger connector, etc).

Every two weeks or so, I'll check the function of the gun (if carried regularly), inspect for proper lubrication and wipe down the exterior with a silicone impregnated cloth. If then gun is exposed to rain, snow, etc, I'll field strip the gun, wipe down the metal parts with the silicone cloth and relube the metal to metal contact parts.

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Old 11-04-2011, 06:12 PM   #787
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There is no fish oil in WD-40. Mostly kerosene which is considered a light oil. Along with some additives, it displaces water (w=water, d=displacement) which is good but hardly unique. We used it in the Marines (1968) but there are better products available now. It still sells well and probably always will. It has a nasty habit of slowly evaporating and turning into a waxy gunk that will render a firearm useless. No rust in long term storage, but you need to spray it off before taking it hunting or trusting your life with it. I had to share my pump shotgun with a friend with a Browning auto that was sprayed down with WD-40 and pulled back out a few months later. It was froze up solid in a 20 degree duck blind. I like LPS-1. Leaves a dry lube but no brown gunk. Rem-Oil is a good product. I sold WD-40 in 55 gal. barrels when I sold industrial supplies. It has a place. I won't put it on my firearms.
I've always used Hoppes gun oil or 3in 1 if I didn't have any Hoppes. Both seemed to be just fine. I clean my guns after every shooting session rgardless of how many rounds I fired. Can't afford the risk of messing up one of my guns cause I was too lazy to clean it.
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:38 AM   #788
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I clean my guns everytime I shoot them. Brass brush - 20 strokes, Butch's Boreshine on a patch 2 - 3 times. Dry patch 2 times, back to the brush until there is no dirt coming out. Weapon shield on the inside and outside of the barrel. For bad brass fouling I use Sweets 762 to remove it. This is time consuming, but it's worth it. Cleans out the gun, maintains a longer life, keeps it accurate as it removes crud from the internals.

Do not use a steel rod or a segmented rod as it can damage the bore, muzzle and chamber from the steel on steel rubbing. Dewey Rods are a little pricey, but well worth it.

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Old 11-06-2011, 01:48 AM   #789
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Most of my rifles are mosin variations(M39,M91, 91/30) so the primers are corrosive.
I clean my rifles within 3 hours of returning from the range.
First a dry patch to get out the loose fouling.
Then a patch of Sweets 7.62 to remove the corrosive salts and also to remove copper fouling. Let stand for 10 min and then remove with a clean patch. I do this 2 X.
Next is Hoppes #9 patches until the bore is clean. If the bore is rough, I use a brass brush. Usually I only need patches.
I use break free as my oil.
Remaining parts are cleaned with windex and soft brush. dried then oiled.

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Old 11-06-2011, 01:30 PM   #790
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Clean all your firearms, all the time ! If they just sit in their cases, in the closet, clean and lube them about every three months. Keep them wrapped in an oiled, lint free rag, and you'll have no problem with pitting or rust.
If you carry a gun and don't shoot it, clean and lube it once a month.
If you shoot, even if it's one shot, clean and lube your firearm !
Products to use are vast but here are a few of the exceptional ones,
Hoppe's NO #9 Solvent- nothing beats this product for that filthy gun that just had 200 + rounds through it. The trick is use it only on the barrel of blued guns because it will in time eat the blueing off. Once you clean the barrel you can use something like Bore Bright or Gunslick Solvent for further cleaning of a really dirty gun. If you only fired a a few shots aka magazine or cylinder full, your better off using a CLP lube like Break-Free, Mil-Tech, Mil-Com, EEZOX, ect. These are all-in-one cleaner, lubricant, and protectant products that work very well. They are better suited for polymer frame guns like Glock and XD's and they perform very well. You can use them on really dirty guns but your just going to have to run a bit more patches through because CLP's do not cut crud like a solvent but they do indeed work if it's all you have. There lubricant and Penetrative properties is what makes them worth the while. After you clean with a CLP, wipe and dry your gun as normal, then lube appropriately as with a regular oil. A little goes a long way with CLP's so don't over do it ! Too much of a good thing sometimes is bad, especially when over lubing guns ! If your going to do it the traditional two step way then use a good solvent like Hoppes, Brite Bore, or Gunslick, clean everything ! Barrel, receiver, frame, internals of slide, spring, guide rod, breech, hammer, striker, you name it ! The lube sparingly with Tri-Flow or Rem Oil ! Rem Oil is now actually a CLP but is still considered their house lube with teflon. Tri-Flow is unique ! It too has teflon, is very clean, has a very high viscosity, and a very good cleaning agent. Tri-Flow also has a familiar smell too, yep it smells like Hoppe's No # 9 ! Back in the early 90's Tri-Flow was all the rage. Every gun and bicycle shop carried it and recommeded it.
Now there are better products out there that give a slight advantage, but if Tri-Flow worked then, isn't still going to work just as good now ? I still swear by it ! Any lube with teflon is a good lube ! It keeps actions slick, and repels dirt and moisture like a skin tight shield. You can even clean with a CLP, wipe dry then lube with Tri-Flow or Rem-Oil if you prefer their qualities better.
Lately I just been using Break-Free and have no problems. I may switch to Rem-Oil because it is now a CLP and has Teflon but you can't go wrong with either. Stay away from grease, when you fire the gun the powder/lead residue bind with the grease giving you some nice grit to scatch up the inside of your gun. Grease is also harder to clean ! Some guys and gals I know use something else to lube their firearms. Something many wouldn't suspect or think of off hand. Can you say Mobil 1 motor oil ? Well tahts what many use with excellent results ! Mobil 1 is a 100% synthetic oil that doesn't breakdown or gum up. So it lasts and stays clean, very clean ! You would have to buy a decent oil can with a fine applicator which you can find at Home depot, Lowes, or even some hobby shops and auto stores. But it's worth it ! For $5 bucks you get a whole quart of this fine oil compared to the measly 2-4 ounces of the super premium gun lubes that go for $12-$15 bucks ! You would have to do a two step cleaning/lubing process but even with a CLP it's really two steps anyway {If Your Doing it Right!} Mobil 1 is definitely worth it ! These are my pointers and advice, I hope this helps some. Remember, clean that gun ! Even if you fire one round, clean it !
Don't listen to people who tell you, clean every 200 rounds. That's fine and good if your at the range intending to shoot 1000 rounds ! You don't want to store a dirty gun, that's when the most damage occurs. It's like eating sugar at night and not brushing your teeth before bed !

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